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Tue May 28, 2019 3:35 pm

Which grommets are you using for the direct reservoir mount?

Mon Jul 08, 2019 7:30 pm

I'll be using the WW German Master Cylinder w/ the 15mm inlets on the MC. Which grommets are you using for the direct reservoir mount?

The CIP1 reservoir dimensions are 85mm apart and the nipple part is only 13mm. I cannot find a 13mm grommet/plug for the master cylinder. I only see 7mm and 11mm inlet grommet/plugs.

I'm lost...can anyone point me in the right direction?

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D113%2D611%2D301%2DDCC

Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:02 am

This same answer is on page four of this topic.. but... the general rule of thumb for master mounted reservoirs are

German Master Cylinders use the Rabbit reservoir
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=705868

Non German use the Empi or common reservoirs now available or a Volvo 240 reservoir.

It really all depends on the grommet size and spacing your current master cylinder needs. ..
You cant use the Rabbit grommets on the Beetle German Master. The OD of the grommets are different

Other option.. use a remote reservoir and brake pipes and tubing to make the transition .. like Vw did ...
.

Sat Aug 01, 2020 11:26 am

My friend JB's solution when adding a dual-circuit MC to a '64 Sedan but keeping the stock reservoir: a brass t-fitting.

Sat Aug 01, 2020 12:13 pm

jsclarkfl wrote: My friend JB's solution when adding a dual-circuit MC to a '64 Sedan but keeping the stock reservoir: a brass t-fitting.

Problem with the "T" so close to the MC is that when one circuit goes bad, it can rob the still working circuit of fluid. Move the "T" as far uphill to prevent that.

Sat Aug 01, 2020 1:00 pm

Good point! I'll pass that along.

Eric&Barb wrote: Problem with the "T" so close to the MC is that when one circuit goes bad, it can rob the still working circuit of fluid. Move the "T" as far uphill to prevent that.

Sat Aug 01, 2020 5:26 pm

I would use a "Y" fitting close to the reservoir.

Just my 2 cents. :D

Sun Aug 02, 2020 1:28 pm

There are two ways to do this job right the first time.

First, go the genuine VW 67 way, described here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=737065&highlight=

Second is for all those who want to keep the optical amount of the elder cars:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=724987&highlight=

I think, this will lead to a correct working brake.

Sun Feb 14, 2021 2:46 pm

grandpa pete wrote: I was asked to show how I changed my single circuit master cylinder to a dual circuit master cylinder

Pink arrow points to where I attached the blue brake fluid supply lines to an existing clip on the tunnel with tye wraps

Thinking of plumbing my reservoir to MC like this and eliminating the steel tubes. I would use a brass reducing coupler to connect the small diameter hose from the reservoir to the larger diameter blue hose. I like your idea of securing the blue brake hose to the original factory clip with zip ties to keep the hoses away from the steering components.

Curious as to why the new blue brake hose is looped at the bulkhead and then turned back to the MC inlet rather than a straight run to the MC.

Sat Dec 18, 2021 2:16 pm

Just planning installing all new hard lines and dual mc in our 62 bug.
Very helpful thread thanks

Ordering parts and noticed there is a dual circuit spacer kit. Why is this needed?
Is it needed?

Bought 67 hard lines and 67 reservoir to place in og location. Better to have a visual on fluid levels.

Sat Dec 18, 2021 2:22 pm

vwsplitvan wrote: Ordering parts and noticed there is a dual circuit spacer kit. Why is this needed?
Is it needed?

Check the description. Guessing it is for the bus...

Sat Dec 18, 2021 3:36 pm

Weird as listed for 1960-79 Beetle
Says for use when fitting a high performance mc.

Tue Mar 08, 2022 1:32 pm

Very grateful for this thread, using it as my guide for converting my '66 to dual circuit drums. Thanks to everyone who's contributed over the years!

Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:07 am

grandpa pete wrote: Found this on a You Tube video ;

Use duct tape to hold master in place while fitting screws from inside;
put in brake light switches AND hook up wireing BEFORE bolting in unit

Easier solution - put the bolts on from inside, then go under the car tie wire ties once around each bolt as close to the body as possible. These will prevent the bolt pushing back in. Probably a plastic closure for your loaf of bread would work too. Get the mc on and start threading the nuts on. Then take off the wire tie or the plastic closure.

Wed Mar 09, 2022 7:46 am

bnam wrote: grandpa pete wrote: Found this on a You Tube video ;

Use duct tape to hold master in place while fitting screws from inside;
put in brake light switches AND hook up wireing BEFORE bolting in unit

Easier solution - put the bolts on from inside, then go under the car tie wire ties once around each bolt as close to the body as possible. These will prevent the bolt pushing back in. Probably a plastic closure for your loaf of bread would work too. Get the mc on and start threading the nuts on. Then take off the wire tie or the plastic closure.

I almost always do such job by myself. I start the line fittings by hand a few turns to eliminate chance of crossthreading. Then I stuff rags under the master cylinder to prop it in place while I get the bolts started from the driver compartment.

However, I think that the duct tape technique is clever, and may try that in the future.

Wed Mar 09, 2022 7:48 am

bnam wrote: grandpa pete wrote: Found this on a You Tube video ;

Use duct tape to hold master in place while fitting screws from inside;
put in brake light switches AND hook up wireing BEFORE bolting in unit

Easier solution - put the bolts on from inside, then go under the car tie wire ties once around each bolt as close to the body as possible. These will prevent the bolt pushing back in. Probably a plastic closure for your loaf of bread would work too. Get the mc on and start threading the nuts on. Then take off the wire tie or the plastic closure.

I almost always do such job by myself. I start the line fittings by hand a few turns to eliminate chance of crossthreading. Then I stuff rags under the master cylinder to prop it in place while I get the bolts started from the driver compartment.

However, I think that the duct tape technique is clever, and may try that in the future.

Sat Mar 12, 2022 4:59 pm

I was going to do the same thing you mentioned below to add a dual master cylinder conversion to my 61 bug. I am having a hard time finding the proper sized brass or stainless steel barbed reducer. The small diameter brake fluid hose attaching to the metal reservoir tubes is 4.5mm ID and the larger blue hose that connects to the master cylinder is 7mm ID. Where can I find a proper sized reducer to connect these and what did you use or does it work just as well to use hose clamps to hold the blue hose onto the smaller steel tubes of the reservoir.

FL-Frank wrote: grandpa pete wrote: I was asked to show how I changed my single circuit master cylinder to a dual circuit master cylinder

Pink arrow points to where I attached the blue brake fluid supply lines to an existing clip on the tunnel with tye wraps

Thinking of plumbing my reservoir to MC like this and eliminating the steel tubes. I would use a brass reducing coupler to connect the small diameter hose from the reservoir to the larger diameter blue hose. I like your idea of securing the blue brake hose to the original factory clip with zip ties to keep the hoses away from the steering components.

Curious as to why the new blue brake hose is looped at the bulkhead and then turned back to the MC inlet rather than a straight run to the MC.

Sat Feb 25, 2023 5:37 pm

I don't think it got referenced directly, but some have posted similar ideas to this JBugs video from a few years ago:

https://youtu.be/CorjjxZ7gRM

My question about it relates to the way he routed the OG reservoir to the dual cylinder reservoir. He basically poked a hole in the tip and used a grommet to plug the old reservoir into (1:30 into the video). Any concerns with doing it that way? Seems like it would seal up and not spill out to me... :-k

Sat Feb 25, 2023 6:53 pm

If I were to do it that way, I would only be using the original reservoir above as a fill-funnel to run the fluid down to the new dual-chamber reservoir, and visually ensuring that the new reservoir below is NOT overfilled. The new grommet that the hack hacked in there MAY hold fluid under gravity pressure (aka "head" or "static" pressure), but what the hack didn't tell you in the video is that if you fill up your O.E. reservoir up above, fluid WILL leak out of the vented cap below until the level above is exhausted, and be lying spilled all over your pan.

Sat Feb 25, 2023 6:54 pm

SparksLP wrote: I don't think it got referenced directly, but some have posted similar ideas to this JBugs video from a few years ago:

https://youtu.be/CorjjxZ7gRM

My question about it relates to the way he routed the OG reservoir to the dual cylinder reservoir. He basically poked a hole in the tip and used a grommet to plug the old reservoir into (1:30 into the video). Any concerns with doing it that way? Seems like it would seal up and not spill out to me... :-k

To answer your question a leak at the grommet won't matter because the thing is the reservoir they put on the M/C has a vented cap so it is going to leak there if the stock reservoir is filled up. As he mentions the stock reservoir is just a funnel now.
For certain not the way I would do it.