Rodknock |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:43 am |
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Why does everything on this van have to be so difficult. I cannot for the life of me get the stupid plug wires off the plugs. I have the ones with the metal part around the plug connection. Is there a trick to it, or do I just yank the living crap out of it and destroy the plug wire?
1986 Westy |
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AtlasShrugged |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:27 am |
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Get a spark plug wire puller from your local auto parts store.
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Rodknock |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:48 am |
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Yes, those are nice, but I am pulling on the metal part just fine and it feels like a really strong rubber band is holding the plug wire on there. Is there some kind of special twisting motion or invisible clip I am not seeing? Just a plug wire right? Should pop off right? |
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T3 Pilot |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 10:00 am |
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Twist 'n' Pull is the way to do it. The rubber inside the metal cover that you are yanking on is most likely baked on to the spark plug ceramic.
Who knows how long those wires have been in service, maybe they survive, maybe they don't. Handy tip to avoid this problem in the future is to lube the rubber with some silicone paste when re installing..... Also rember to clean out the area around where the plug threads in to the head and blow it out with compressed air, or vacuum it out if no air. Do this befor removing the spark plugs.
Now let's hope that the last person in there put anti seize on the plug threads......
Hang in there. |
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Ahwahnee |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 12:45 pm |
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Yeah, they can be stubborn. Adding to the misery is that, unlike most ignition wires that snap on the metal cap at the top of the plug, VWs remove that cap and grab the remaining threads. That helps make a secure connection.
You might be able to get some penetrating oil to creep in there (e.g. PBlaster) though the angle of attack is not ideal. |
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Rodknock |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 1:28 pm |
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Got them off without destroying the plug wires. Geezzz! Anyway, blew air in there and sprayed some PB blaster to sit overnight. Checked my distributor cap and rotor and they look fine, but what's with that metal cup around the cap with the ground strap? I swear, everything is a little different on this car. |
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djkeev |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 1:34 pm |
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Rodknock wrote: Got them off without destroying the plug wires. Geezzz! Anyway, blew air in there and sprayed some PB blaster to sit overnight. Checked my distributor cap and rotor and they look fine, but what's with that metal cup around the cap with the ground strap? I swear, everything is a little different on this car.
Different than????
As far as German cars of that era go, it was quite normal. Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Volkswagen......... A lot of similarities, even some interchangeability at times of some parts.
If you are comparing to a newer Asian car, yes, they are different than German Cars.
Dave |
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Ahwahnee |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:22 pm |
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Rodknock wrote: ...I swear, everything is a little different on this car.
Yeah, those kooky German engineers. Just because they got us to the Moon they think they know the best way to do everything. |
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Rodknock |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 3:18 pm |
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Well, my BMW E30 325i doesn't have one, but that's a whole different animal:) |
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Vanagator |
Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:14 pm |
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Not only are Vanagons different, so are the drivers....Thats why we ROCK!
L8R G8R 8) |
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morymob |
Sun Aug 17, 2014 4:55 am |
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Twist the metal end so u see theslot in the metal cover I use a screwdriver to pop it loose. |
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insyncro |
Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:47 am |
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This weekend, I had an "emergency call" for assistance by a new Vanagon Syncro Westy owner.
The van kept cutting out and would not idle smoothly.
Guess what the issue was?
Yank on the wires and you will break the internal connection of the plug housing.
These wires had less than 500 miles on them but were destroyed in a matter of seconds.
I use a Blue Point plug wire cap puller as pictured. |
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T3 Pilot |
Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:58 am |
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Syncro Pilot wrote: Handy tip to avoid this problem in the future is to lube the rubber with some silicone paste when re installing.....
Hang in there. |
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insyncro |
Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:01 am |
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No lube needed if you have the proper tools and technique.
Don't yank on the wires. |
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geo_tonz |
Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:11 pm |
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insyncro wrote: No lube needed if you have the proper tools and technique. :lol: :lol: :lol:
If they truly were baked onto the plugs replace them! I would take that as a sign of their age and likely had a few ham-fists yank on the wires. Even if they "look OK". Easier to take care of it now than on the road as insyncro showed. at the very least test them with a multimeter and wiggle them a bit while doing it to make sure they're good. |
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Rodknock |
Mon Aug 18, 2014 2:45 pm |
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I pulled on the metal part only and finally they all came off after a lot of pulling and twisting. I don't know why they were on there so tight. They had 30k miles on them (same with plug wires, cap and rotor that all looked fine). I got everything back together with the new plugs in. Used a little anti-seize on the plug threads, and a little dry silicon lube on the white part of the plugs. Runs like a champ, slow as ever! |
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