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  View original topic: rear lift...
DanGreen Fri Jan 16, 2004 10:40 pm

I want to raise the rear of my car, its IRS. I've noticed that alot of people mention lifting it "two notches", how much clearance is that? I want at least 3 more inches in the back, maybe 4 inches but I dont want to max out. Somewhere between 3" and the max lift for stock is what I want.

I looked at the suspension and saw that their is a flap or ledge of metal that keeps the torsion/sringplate from coming down any further. I found this out when I jacked up my car to see what it would look like lifted and the tires came off the ground at about 2". I definetly want more than 2" of lift.

any suggestions?

JamesT Sat Jan 17, 2004 12:34 am

IF you lift it up too much, you'll need to put longer axles on it. I know of people raising swing axles gross amounts like several hundred cm, but I'm not sure how easy it is to do it with an IRS.

62ragman Sat Jan 17, 2004 10:48 am

You can always notch the spring plate where it comes in contact with the droop stop to get a little more. The best set up is to change the end plates to the mid travel ones that allow an advertised 4" more movement(requires welding). Don't go too far as you have to take into consideration the stock torsion bars were only designed to twist so much. If you upgrade to heavier torsion bars, with above spring plate changes, they need less preload to get the highth you are looking for and a better ride than stock,preloaded bars. I've seen this stuff in a couple of off road racing cataloges. Try McKenzies.com, I think pages 8-19 shows this stuff.

DanGreen Sun Jan 18, 2004 3:35 am

wont cutting a wedge in the spring plate just weaken it? I checked out McKenzies.com and they dont list their prices or post pictures but they do have lots of goodies I'd like to buy. I guess if I want more than 2" of lift I'll have to invest about $800 and buy boxed trailing arms (dog legs), HD spring plates, urithane bushings, HD torsion bars and dual shocks. Thats what I'd like to get.....guess all I can do now is preload the torsion as much as I can, replace the stock bushings with urithane of coarse. Oh, and stay out of deep mud.

Ratt Sun Jan 18, 2004 9:49 am

http://members4.boardhost.com/BajaFleg/index.html?1064285532

This is a link to a board. There is a guy there by the name of "Crash" He runs a site called Blindchikenracing.com. They sell alot of the suspension stuff too. Check it out.

As for raising your car via turning the torsions, check our Buggytalk at http://www.dune-buggy.com/buggytalk/ Do a search for lifting an IRS pan. There should be lots of info there.
Good luck
Andy

62ragman Sun Jan 18, 2004 9:54 am

Iv'e seen this done(notching) on other bajas at the races, some class 11 and budget 5-1600 cars. It's not going to be a sharp cut that you would make, just a smooth cut out(crest/half circle type). I have one of McKenzies cataloges with minimal pictures to drool over, but no prices either, it's not fair! Try some good gas shocks on the rear like KYBs, that would help the preloaded torsion set up.

DanGreen Sun Jan 18, 2004 5:58 pm

I've seen the blindchickenracing site before and I really like the parts they have, good prices and pictures too! I plan on getting 2" lifted spindles for balljoint front end. Thanks for the links Andy, I'll definetly check out the forum. As for the notching I might try it if the clearance is worth it. I've already got two rancho 5000's waiting to be put on. I wont install them until the back is raised though, I want to do it all at once.

62ragman Tue Jan 20, 2004 7:46 pm

When I had my class 9 car a couple years ago, The front end was cut and turned, but only the top tube. This raises the ride height and by cutting only the top tube pushs the two ball joint together into their mounts instead of trying to pull the bottom one out, reliability issue. Rotate top tube 1/2-5/8" should do it and replace ball joints with quallity German ones. I contacted my friend who was MDR class 9 champion a couple years in row to verify this, Thanks Joel!!! I'am going to do this set up to my '70. If you get the spindles, let us know how they work.

DanGreen Tue Jan 20, 2004 10:24 pm

I wish I had a shop full of tools :cry: . I'm not posotive but I think it will probably cost more to do that then buying lifted spindles. Atleast for me it will. One good thing about it is that you can adjust the hieght whenever you want, whats bad about it is that the balljoints wear much faster I think. With the lifted spindles you still get the stock ride out of it, spindles last longer and its alot easier to install aposed to cutting and twisting the torsion bar. If I could I'd cut,twist and reweld the torsion bar and install the lifted spindles. I'll have to take it to a shop if I want the torsion twisted and I know that wont be in my price range. I've got other stuff to worry about right now, like my wiring and rear lift. I'll never forget the time me and my friend slept in the mountains because I didnt have enough ground clearance. I got stuck in a rut, a big truck rut :? . To make it worse his girlfriend was with us and she wasnt too happy that I got us stuck so I had to hear her talk smack all night and then some in the morning!!

It wont be for acouple months till I get the spindles but I'll let you all know how they do.

62ragman Wed Jan 21, 2004 4:46 pm

I wish I had a garage full of tools too, I have a one car garage that if I put my car into, my wife can't open the dryer door. :cry: You just have to be resourceful. Local rental yards have tubing cutters of all sizes for cheap by the day. If you check around, you could find a yard that rents welders or welding supply houses usually do and they might include the safety gear. As far as cost, you could do the torsion twist for less than the cost of dinner, oops don't show that to your girlfriend. :lol: Just a thought.

DanGreen Wed Jan 21, 2004 6:28 pm

in the last post I said "spindles last longer", I meant balljoints. Anyway, I'll probably just get the raised spindles, ranchos and new balljoints. Now, i've got a question about "boxed trailing arms, 3"wider & 3"longer. If I decided to buy those what other parts will I have to replace besides the bushings? Do I have to buy longer axles?

62ragman Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:23 pm

Yes, not only do you need different axles, but the stock type 1 cvs won't handle the extra angular movement(something like 12-14 degrees stock vs 24 degrees for the 930 cvs) so those need replaced. Not to mention new upper shock mounts... you get the picture. Vee Dub parts unlimited advertises a complete kit with the stuff you need to do this, minus the upper mounts. Check out thier ad in Hot VWs mag.

DanGreen Sat Jan 24, 2004 2:21 am

trailing arms, axles, bushings, spacers, shocks and torsion bars. not to mention the mechanic that will be doing all the work.... too much money for me. That will take me a couple years, for now I'll make the best of the stock parts.

Have any of you cut a wedge/crecent into the bottom of your spring plates?
Is it ok to do this? wont they be real weak?



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