TheSamba.com :: View topic - Removing Floor Boards in the 1984 Wolfsburg...

Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:15 pm

HI,
I apologize if this shows up in a search... I couldn't find the answer in my searches.

I am considering mounting a larger propane tank on the passenger side using brackets that will bolt on with new bolts pushed through the floor. The bolts will be fastened to the floor along the grooves in the floor, passing through a plate that I would lay inside along the groove.

My question.. does anyone know if the rear most floor panel in the wolfsburg can be removed without having to pull up the rear seat/storage face or does the rear seat have to come up/out?

I believe I will be able to prop the middle floor panel up on the passenger side and not have to fully remove. The front most panel may have to be pulled out or at least the molding along the front face/carpet will have to be pulled out in order to lift/prop up the panel I believe.

Thanks!

Barry

Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:43 am

Barry, are you asking about the rear seat in a camper? On our 82 camper, the rear seat has a wood floor and underneath the seat is a fiber type board to make up the difference in height of the two floors. The rear seat comes out fairly easily without removing the kitchen etc. The rear seat might overlap the center floor slightly as well.

Have you checked yet underneath? My 82 has the studs already there to support the stock propane tank.

Tue Sep 23, 2014 10:16 am

You need to remove the rear bench. Like RSXSR said it is fairly easy to remove. The bench seat overlaps the floor about 1 inch under the bench. The floor also goes under the kitchen a small amount. You might have to loosen it also. When loosening the kitchen, there are also screws from the cabinet next to the kitchen that go into the side of the kitchen cabinet besides the bolts in the floor. In addition there is one screw that goes from the auxiliary battery box into the kitchen cabinet. It is the wire hold down screw in the top of the aux battery box. Be careful lifting the floor, the tracks are glued to the floor panels. You don't want to separate the tracks from the floor. While you are in there you can see if your rear heater has leaked. A good time to clean things up.

Here is a photo with the cabinets and bench out and the floor still in hope it helps

Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:05 pm

Westified, that is exactly what I was looking for!

I have a couple 6V AGMs under the back seat as well as all of my electrical running out through the water tank cabinet. Propex and shore charger are under the Truckfridge so not excited to remove that but figure just lifting the passenger and middle/front panel would be enough. I don't have a rear heater any more and all is clean under there in that regards.

The propane tank is one of the larger ones that was available through BusDepot or the like so does not easily use the existing mounts on the passenger side. I'm considering either using this tank to either replace the stock tank or supplement it.

I am also aware of an alternative using custom mounting brackets that would run off each end of the tank and attach to the frame at each end of the tank. It doesn't require anything through the floor but requires more work from others as opposed to doing it myself.

Thanks!

Barry

Tue Sep 23, 2014 1:05 pm

If you have the studs, it could be as simple as a large flat plate drilled to accept the factory locations and new holes for mounting the larger tank. Using all 4 studs with a solid plate would be plenty secure vs two smaller adapter plates. I'd prefer this to drilling through the floor.

Tue Sep 23, 2014 2:54 pm

I agree, not wanting to drill the holes. There are two existing studs, the other two I believe one has to remove some existing bolts for the seat tracks or similar and push down through the floor. A large flat solid plate may be an excess amount of weight and strength but I'll take a look at how I might attach that to the existing tank brackets.

Thanks

rsxsr wrote: If you have the studs, it could be as simple as a large flat plate drilled to accept the factory locations and new holes for mounting the larger tank. Using all 4 studs with a solid plate would be plenty secure vs two smaller adapter plates. I'd prefer this to drilling through the floor.

Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:07 pm

Use aluminum if you are concerned about weight.

Fri Dec 04, 2015 10:51 pm

Barry and I got this large propane tank mounting project done a few weeks ago and we did not need remove rear bench seat.