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azbob Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:15 pm

I've read the ignition topics in the FAQs as well as searching and none show how to remove from the column other than Everett's comment on the locking mechanism and screw. I've removed the screw, steering wheel and well, what you see in the pics is what I have. The ignition isn't budging at all, not sure what I am missing. I don't want to be to aggressive and break the ignition all together.

Is there a pin beneath the ignition face here?


I tried pushing the metal housing on the top left of the back piece here.


You can see the screw has been removed.


Any ideas? Maybe I'm supposed to punch it with my face a few times? ](*,) Heh.. I was actually thinking that there has to be a pin in place, but not seeing that mentioned anywhere.

MonT3 Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:09 pm

Just an FYI...
You may need to insert the key and turn it (assuming you have disconnected the battery) to assist you in removing the cylinder. But more importantly, understand that if you push the ignition switch out by applying pressure on the keyhole side, you will more than likely damage the brown cover with the soldered wires. Those wires are routed down the side of the column and the only way I have found was to take a soldering iron to the center of those squares and remove the wires, get them out of the way and gently remove the ignition switch. Make sure you document where the wires attach.

I made the mistake of pushing that ignition switch on my column and the brown cover came open and very small springs came out along with a bearing and another piece.

If my memory serves me there is a pin that holds the key holes portion but I can't remember if it's visible. I posted a few pics of what's behind that cover so you have an idea. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...;start=480 scroll down the page a bit.

Sorry it's much help but whatever you take your time and have a clean surface to work on just in case the piece explodes so you can recover the parts. Good luck.

ataraxia Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:21 am

Without the key, the switch is likely locked into place. You'll need to insert the key and turn it to unlock it from the housing. The screw you removed simply keeps the switch from spinning while the lock is disengaged.

Easiest way is to remove the solder and pull the wires and then it should just slide out (always support the bakelite back piece). Don't linger on the contacts-stay just long enough to heat up the solder and pop the wires out.

The only reason to remove the pin is if you want to remove the key only portion of the ignition switch. If not, leave it alone.

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:54 am

Well, my problem is that I have no key and I want to get the ignition out to use the code to make a key.

The steering wheel turned freely when I started. So I'm not certain if it is locked or not.

Any ideas? A key shouldn't be required to pull this you'd think. :D

ataraxia Wed Oct 01, 2014 12:01 pm

If the wheel turns without the key, remove the wires from the bake lite and pop it out.

The key code should be etched on the turn signal arm face if it's original, btw.

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 12:07 pm

So the 5 digit code hand etched on the face would be the key code? it's alpha numeric code : ##AAA ?

Thanks!

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:11 pm

Well I called a locksmith with experience on doing these. The etched code is too short. It is 3 digits short is what he was saying. Is he correct? Is he wrong? I dunno. There's an ink stamp on it that is partially missing. Maybe that's it...If so, it doesn't help much.





Here's mine:

ataraxia Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:29 pm

The late switches that I have are 5 numbers and a letter.

The early switches that I have are a letter and 4 numbers.

I can't really see what yours says...it should be etched by hand.

VW surely didn't dismantle the whole ignition column, then the switch to cut a key!

ataraxia Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:34 pm

I wouldn't recommend the VW way of pulling your switch as pulling the wires through the column is complicated-putting them back is another challenge in itself.

There's a thread in here somewhere where Everett and I discussed the various ways we've removed the switches but I can't find it right now.

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:54 pm

Yeah, I read up on that thread. It's where I found the pic of the Bentley method. I've got a solder gun to remove the wires and I know that the code will be on the key cylinder but damn... You'd think they'd make this a little easier to get a key. Ha!

One thing, the ignition doesn't move at all. as it sits now, maybe it's stuck with age.

The number that shows is 22NHA and I've called 2 separate locksmiths and both say it is not valid. Ah well.

ataraxia Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:56 pm

azbob wrote: Yeah, I read up on that thread. It's where I found the pic of the Bentley method. I've got a solder gun to remove the wires and I know that the code will be on the key cylinder but damn... You'd think they'd make this a little easier to get a key. Ha!

One thing, the ignition doesn't move at all. as it sits now, maybe it's stuck with age.

The number that shows is 22NHA and I've called 2 separate locksmiths and both say it is not valid. Ah well.

Yeah, that doesn't sound like a valid number. I hope that after you go through all of this hassle that the switch is still good. It'd be a real bummer to go through all of this, make a key only to find the switch is bad...

Do what you can to maintain that column-it's a Koln and parts are harder to find than those of the more common SWF.

You could send the switch to Gabriel and he'll drill out the pin and cut keys...that way you don't run the risk of drilling too deep.

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:04 pm

Yep. And the first guy quoted me 20+ for a blank. Not even a stock cut like Gabe's at that price.

Ah well.

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:05 pm

ataraxia wrote:
Do what you can to maintain that column-it's a Koln and parts are harder to find than those of the more common SWF.

Well that's some new info right there. Thanks!

ataraxia Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:09 pm

azbob wrote: Yep. And the first guy quoted me 20+ for a blank. Not even a stock cut like Gabe's at that price.

Ah well.

Key blanks for the early cars are more expensive. I can't remember what I paid for mine. Gabe rebuilt one of my switches and it came out looking great.

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:12 pm

Uhg.. Was in there so tight. The cylider housing was wedged and would not move. I'm going to have to buy a new one. Lame.

DHanna Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:49 pm

Why not take the circlip off the steering shaft which releases the brass cancelling washer and spring. Undo the clamp screw where the casting clamps to the column tube and you should be able to remove the assembly. Easier to work on it out of the car!

Tram Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:15 pm

Removing the column cover assembly complete first is easiest.

azbob Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:20 pm

It wasn't to rough to get at. Just didn't want to press out. The housing was cracked and then broke when pushing it through. Super bummed. I'll figure something out I guess. Time to go hunt for parts that I already had. ](*,)

Cammie Thu Aug 27, 2020 9:28 am

Hi there,
I thought I should add to this thread rather than starting a new one. I need to remove and replace the switch at the bottom of the ignition lock on a '67 type 3 column fitted in a buggy.

Reading whats here so far, I'm not sure that I understand.
I see that I need to remove solder from the leads to the switch at bottom of lock.

I was assuming once this is done that I should draw the lock out of the column at the key end?

Should I actually push it through the end with the wires?

Do I need to remove the lock at all?

I'm thinking that some things will become more apparent when I receive the new wired up switch. Such as how it attaches to the lock.

Also is it difficult to feed the wires through the column? I'm wondering if I can tie the new wires to the old ones with fishing line and pull them out from the other side
Thanks.
Iain

Beetspeed Sun Sep 03, 2023 6:44 am

Directing the new wires from the ISP-West switch through the colomn is actually not too hard:



However, the new switch set from ISP seems to use a different thread for the locking screw?
Original is M4, but no way, no how will the original - unmolested - screw enter the new switch!
Not even another M4 screw would: the thread seems smaller?
Could it be they used a non-metrich size for this?



Anybody similar experiences with the new switches?



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