streetbuggy8804 |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:33 am |
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I wanted I ask if anyone has any first hand experience with the difference between the Manx 2+2 body and the manx dual sport body? I am researching building a manx dual sport type buggy, but the price difference between the bare bones 2+2 kit and dual sport kit is about 3k. From what I can tell the only difference is that the dual sport body is 3" taller and has a " more aggressive look." If this is the only real difference I would opt to do a $200+ body lift to gain 3". Has anyone built an " offroad" or dual sport manxter using the 2+2 body? If so pictures would be nice. Also if anyone has any experience with going down to visit the manx home and see the two bodies side by side and can speak to the differences or lack there of, that would be very helpful. |
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manxdavid |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:28 am |
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Here's a 2+2 built as a dual sport...
More here...
http://manxclub.yuku.com/topic/427/Where-are-all-the-Manxters- |
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manxvair |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:56 am |
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Email Brad at Barn Fab <[email protected]>; He can explain the differences, I've been researching the same question. |
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jsturtlebuggy |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:58 am |
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A couple of differences between the 2+2 and Dual Sport is in the rear part of the cage it has upper shock mounts welded in place for two shocks per side if you want to run a bypass and coil carrier to eliminate the torsion bars. The body is also different as it flat on the inside, no indentations from a 1956 Ford F100 front fenders for tire clearance.
The rear seat area is made for a wide rear fiberglass seat instead of two buckets. Easier to set sideways for more leg room in the rear.
In the front on the body there is room for longer shocks. This is the humps (raised section) on hood and body. Jon's modified 2+2 (Orange one in picture above) has shocks coming up through area were gas tank would set in front. His tank is in back behind rear seats.
The Dual Sport is made to be able to use stock gas tank between shock locations.
One thing I did find was on my Dual Sport build was the shock towers on front suspension that you can buy with the kit is the shock towers are not tall enough.
With a 10in travel shock and 2 1/4in longer arms you should be able to get 12in of travel. I was at less than that. I cut of the towers and made new ones that set higher (there is room in the body to do this) and now get the full 12in of travel.
You can use 4in longer trailing arms and get more travel, but without modifying the upper shock mount you will not get the full 16in of travel the 4in longer arms can obtain.
You do not have to buy the front suspension assembly, you can make you own trailing arm or a-arm setup. Brad is getting ready to start selling the A-Arm bolt on setup that offers 12in of wheel travel.
With the Dual Sport there is the option of a swing pedal mount if you want to change from the floor mounted pedals.
Building a Dual Sport you have to be a fabricator or know one. The Manual for it is the same as the 2+2 but ends before the build is complete. Because it leaves it up to you to finish how you want it, since it using different than stock suspension. It up to you to design your suspension the way you want for travel and stops.
If you are going to use a Subaru at any time make sure to order the rear wing for the radiator (you have to fabricate you own radiator mounts) as if you order it later the colors may not exactly match. Such as the gelcoat can very in batches.
I love my Dual Sport and drive it everywhere. It the most comfortable riding vehicle I have.
2 weeks ago I did a 1,000 mile round trip from home in it to go play with others in Borrego. It been driven to the east coast and back. It now has over 30,000 miles since being first built and has had several updates.
One thing I do recommend is installing a front sway bar with the long travel suspension. Otherwise when doing high speed maneuvering and corners they heal over like a sailboat. |
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dcamomanx |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:02 am |
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There are a few differences between the two bodies. The dualsport body has its lift in the body and not under it like a steel body lift would. What this allows is the rear seat sits lower in the body and gives you more head room for the rear passengers. The rear seat area on the dual sports is shaped for a single bench seat verses the 2+2 is designed for 2 separate fiberglass buckets. On the 2+2 there are inner fender bumps that give tire clearance while the dual sport this area is flat. The dual sport also has a bar from the b and c roll cage hoops that provide upper shock mount locations. Up front the dual sport has bumps on the hood for front shock clearance. I think there is also a difference in the lower section of the dash to accommodate hanging pedals.
here is a link to some pics of the differences
http://www.meyersmanx.info/ManxInfoGallery/index.php/Design-Photos
I hope that helps
Doran |
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streetbuggy8804 |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:59 pm |
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Thank you guys. Tht is exactly the information that I was looking for. I am going to go with an a-arm set up up front so I don't think that I need the clearance but the back seat area is def. something that makes that kit a more desirable kit to me. I am handy with a weld and bender and plan to do some custom fabrication. I have a Subaru motor in my current buggy and will be going this way again. Once you go subaru, you never go back. I just emailed Winnie about a dual sport bare bones kit. I am thinking about doing a wrap on the body though I need to investigate how it will hold up to the offroad. I plan in taking it offroad very infrequently so this is not the biggest concern, price considering. |
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Iguana |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 4:49 pm |
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I like Buggies lol ... I see you are up at LongBeach if you feel like a drive come down to Valley Center and I will show you both the bodies side by side and explain everything everyone else has said in person. I have a DualSport with a Beam and 4" arms and I have a Manxter 2+2 with a 3" lift kit and A-Arm front end. Both are running 3x3 rears ends with 12" shocks, one coil over one torsion. One has a EJ25 Turbo and one has a EJ25 SOHC, one with 5 Speed Subaru and the other with 091 etc.
The easy answer is that the kits are the same price .... but you get more with the DualSport kit so it ends up being more $$$ wise. It is very badly advertised and explained by Meyers Manx .... and I am in the process of shooting a Video Add for them that will outline what is what and sort this confusion out ( Hopefully).
If you are looking to save money on the order then you must be prepared to spend time and money on the build. It is a false economy to get a cheaper kit UNLESS you really know what you want to do and end up with.
I am working with a number of guys at the moment to help them design their build before they spend a cent. This way they don't waste, time or money and get what they expect. I am not building them or even selling them anything at this stage I am more interested in helping them avoid making bad decisions and hopefully gain benefit from a lot of mistakes I have made and lessons I have learnt.
There is a lot of misinformation, confusing information and down right in-correct information on the web and I am working hard to sort it out best I can. We have an interesting project on the go at the moment which should be released in the next few months that will hopefully help out with a lot of these questions.
To say any more you have to drop the "DualSport Body" theory and realign your thinking with what you want to do with the buggy and what your build specs will be. Each body ( Manxter 2+2 and DualSport) has different features that will make it easier to build depending on which way you go and what parts you are using. The body just keeps the mud off your pants and CHP off your ASS lol
I know Winnie will hate me for saying this but you can make a hybrid kit if needed so you end up with something like my Blue Manxter 2+2 which has a DualSport Dash to allow the Underslung pedals with a DualSport Roll cage but on a 2+2 Body without the rear shock covers etc. BUT you have to accept that modifying stuff is going to be required and you can't go back to Meyers Manx and complain stuff didn't fit or the instructions where wrong etc.
As shown above Jon's Manxter 2+2 was built for Offroad use and was built before the DualSport existed so it was a modified 2+2.
Here is his build :
Anyway as I said up the top if you want more info etc then I am more than happy to run you through the Models in person and if you decide on your build specs before hand I can fill you in on the pro's and cons of each option relative to that. I live a few miles from Meyers Manx.
I hope that helps ..
Manxter DualSport, Manxter 2+2, Manxter DualSport
Manxter DualSport, Manxter DualSport, Manxter DualSport, Manxter 2+2
Manxter 2+2
Manxter 2+2
Manxter DualSport
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Iguana |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 4:52 pm |
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Oh and just cause I like Buggies :D
I could go on but hopefully that is enough to get you thinking :D |
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streetbuggy8804 |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 5:44 pm |
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Wow thanks iguana!!!! Your build originally hot me motivated to try a Subaru conversion which I have since completed. I am def interested in making a trip down to manx to take a look for myself. I am also in the planning stages so I will def. PM you to seek some guidance. I originally wanted to stay under 10k for body and front a-arm kit but after emailing with Winnie today, I see that I may need to up my budget. Just as a reference I am looking to build something like brads blue dual sport that you posted a pic of. 90% street drive ( possible daily driver) and 10% offroad.
I am looking or a stance very similar to the one that goes through the drive through in this video
http://youtu.be/JtVNZnAYIxE
Does anyone have a link to a build thread of this one, if it exists that is. Thanks again. |
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Iguana |
Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:55 pm |
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streetbuggy8804 wrote: Wow thanks iguana!!!! Your build originally hot me motivated to try a Subaru conversion which I have since completed. I am def interested in making a trip down to manx to take a look for myself. I am also in the planning stages so I will def. PM you to seek some guidance. I originally wanted to stay under 10k for body and front a-arm kit but after emailing with Winnie today, I see that I may need to up my budget. Just as a reference I am looking to build something like brads blue dual sport that you posted a pic of. 90% street drive ( possible daily driver) and 10% offroad.
I am looking or a stance very similar to the one that goes through the drive through in this video
http://youtu.be/JtVNZnAYIxE
Does anyone have a link to a build thread of this one, if it exists that is. Thanks again.
Budget needs to match expectation. $10k isn't going to be realistic unless you swap hours for $$$. You could build your own A-Arm setup and get a body for $10k but even then it would be tight. Also don't do it without a pan and design a package don't cherry pick items and hope they would work together, you will be unhappy with the end result.
$20k is realistic for a rolling chassis and dualsport kit. Sure you can pick a smaller number if you want but as it goes down the components drop and the labour increases. It all comes back to expectation management.
Brad's (mine) Blue DualSport is a Manxter 2+2 not a DualSport. That is what I am saying forget the Body type as you get any look from either one.
The Grey Manxter in the drive through has no build thread that I know of but it is up at Huntington Beach from memory.
If you are looking at 90% Street and 10% offroad I would give some serious thought to what you really want in the suspension department.
To DD a Buggy on the road that much you are going to have to be very careful with your selection of parts and setup. As a general rule the more offroad you build the worse on road will be. Sure guys like Joe do a lot of highway driving in their Offroad Buggies BUT they have also spent a lot of time dialing it in and refining their combination.
What sort of Off Road are you looking at ? Hard core of just social ?
If Social I would give some thought to a BJ front end with 181 Spindles on it .... yes I said BJ.
This Manxter DualSport is running BJ front Beam with 181 Spindles and 3x3 rear Arms with Coil Overs. It is very nice to drive on road and still handles well offroad. If you did that and widened the front beam, changed the shock towers you would get the look of the grey one you like stance wise and save a lot of $$$ and get a better road handling car.
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