TheSamba.com :: View topic - Quick and Easy WBX Oil Cooler Seal Replacement

Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:08 pm

Merian wrote: how long does that O-ring usually last?

The ones without the nubs either failed along with the headgaskets of the WBX many moons ago and both were updated at the dealer under warranty, or like my 91 Syncro...lasted up until about a week ago.
I could not find any mention of it in the receipts that came with the van so I assume it was factory.
The van did sit over 10 years in a barn, so it didnt heat cycle much during those years.

Tue Feb 10, 2015 6:07 pm

Just completed my cooler o-ring "party pack":
- 27mm deep socket
- T55 bit
- spare o-ring
- Loctite 518

...all packed in the van & ready for the road. Thanks again, Dylan! 8)

- Dave

Tue Feb 10, 2015 6:08 pm

dhaavers wrote: Just completed my cooler o-ring "party pack":
- 27mm deep socket
- T55 bit
- spare o-ring
- Loctite 518

...all packed in the van & ready for the road. Thanks again, Dylan! 8)

- Dave

:wink:
Now that's a party.

Wed Mar 11, 2015 10:06 am

I was set to do this last night but my T55 torx bit is way too small. It just slips in and out of the ID of the pick up tube with no interference to grab the inside of the tube. Are there different types of tubes? Obviously the ID, not the OD, since they all use the same filters.

Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:13 am

CarlSpackler wrote: I was set to do this last night but my T55 torx bit is way too small. It just slips in and out of the ID of the pick up tube with no interference to grab the inside of the tube. Are there different types of tubes? Obviously the ID, not the OD, since they all use the same filters.

insyncro wrote:
The T55 part isn't grabbing the pipe in the picture but the slightly larger 6 sided part of the driver.

Wed Jun 22, 2016 11:49 am

Quote: I was set to do this last night but my T55 torx bit is way too small. It just slips in and out of the ID of the pick up tube with no interference to grab the inside of the tube. Are there different types of tubes? Obviously the ID, not the OD, since they all use the same filters.

I ran into the same issue. Does anyone have a non-Snap On brand T55 that they've had success with?

Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:33 pm

Hi everyone. So I had to do this job today, but I found my Cornwell T55 wouldn't catch the inside diameter of the tube. So I rummaged through my drawers and found a solution I thought I'd share with everyone. Especially since the photos are gone from this thread. :-k

In any case, the tool I found that works is designed to remove heater fittings from the intake manifolds on Chevrolet V8s. They commonly will break off. I'm sure I bought mine from one of the tool trucks when I was wrenching on the line, but I also found that Lisle makes one. I would assume it's the same size since it's made to remove the same fitting. It's Lisle #62200. Looks like Dorman makes one too, their number is 800-408.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-62200-Heater-Couple...ol+remover

I did have to slightly modify this tool. The one I had has a definite step to it, which didn't allow the tool to grab the ID of the tube. But the tip itself could go in, so I simply tapered the step away at the grinding wheel. Now the tool works like a champ. The best part is that it has several teeth and is also designed to be hammered into place.

Proof:

So if you're looking for an alternative to the SnapOn T55, the GM heater fitting removal tool also seems to do the trick.

-Kevin

Mon Oct 12, 2020 11:04 pm

Kevin, thanks for posting this alternate solution. I did have the same problem with the T55 torx tool not fitting inside the pipe, and followed your path. I purchased the tool, ground it, and it worked perfectly!

Sat Jan 16, 2021 4:01 pm

Developed this cold weather leak over the last few weeks. Luckily I had planned ahead and had bought the 27mm deep socket and the heater pipe tool a few months ago. Thanks to the ghosts of Terry and Insyncro for their input as well others who left such good info on this thread. Made sure to torque to 30fp. Went smoothly and was not difficult for this advanced beginner. Went for a drive to get it good and hot and nary a drip.

Sat Jan 16, 2021 5:29 pm

I did this, I found the task to be neither quick nor easy!

The oil filter pipe was installed by Hercules, probably while he was young and virile!

My first attempt at removal broke my internal pipe wrench.

I got it out using vise grips. I had a spare nipple so mangling the oil filter threads wasn't a serious problem.

Just be aware, this easy job could really beat you up!

Dave

Sun Jan 17, 2021 9:08 am

djkeev wrote:
My first attempt at removal broke my internal pipe wrench.

this is good to know. i bought a set of USA made internal pipe wrenches off eBay just for this but the size that would fit inside the oil pipe seems very flimsy. definitely putting the T55/heater pipe tool in the road kit instead.

Sun Jan 17, 2021 10:22 am

djkeev wrote: My first attempt at removal broke my internal pipe wrench.
I don't have a picture, but I cut two small aligned slots into the end of the pipe so I could use a straight piece of metal as a giant key/screwdriver to rotate/extract the pipe the next time I need to get in there. I'm sure I learned that trick from this list somewhere back in the mists of time.

Sun Jan 17, 2021 10:35 am

sanchius wrote: djkeev wrote: My first attempt at removal broke my internal pipe wrench.
I don't have a picture, but I cut two small aligned slots into the end of the pipe so I could use a straight piece of metal as a giant key/screwdriver to rotate/extract the pipe the next time I need to get in there. I'm sure I learned that trick from this list somewhere back in the mists of time.

Huh! What a great idea!
My engine is in the basement right now and the oil filter pipe is off of it.

I think that I'l be cutting a slot!

Thanks!

Dave

Sat Feb 06, 2021 6:05 pm

I just did this today in the driveway. Might have been the quickest replacement of anything on my GL, in 23 years of ownership.

A mechanic loaned me the GM heater bit when I bought the $4 seal from him.
I had to taper the end of bit slightly w/file to fit ID of pipe, tapped it in...sort of went in crooked a few mm & used a 5/8 socket on the bit. The double threaded pipe came out easily.

Popped new seal in w/mini inner locating index's on the seal with the circular barbs, after cleaning area, tightened everything up, though I just went by feel, not by torque specs, as it felt loose when removing.

Probably should have used a torque wrench, but didn't.

I bent the old flattened seal in half & it cracked after bending it maybe 20 degrees.

Thanks 61scout for posting your solution as I just changed the oil/filter & then noticed the leak ugh, but only lost a few ounces removing the oil filter only.

Sun Feb 07, 2021 2:29 pm

Here is a photo of the old style and new style oil cooler Orings.

The new style has the little eyes molded on to hook onto the oil cooler before you install it.

Dave

Sun Feb 07, 2021 2:33 pm

I wonder if this will fit on a wbx. It's about 1/2" thicker than the one on a 2.1 wasser. Note, I don't think their listing is correct. It's for an AHU/1Z, not an ALH TDI.

https://www.idparts.com/oil-cooler-a3b4a4-alh-068117021b-90607-p-1507.html

Sun Feb 07, 2021 2:40 pm

1/2” is a lot of oil filter thread gone.
But

That pipe for the filter has 3/4-16 threads on it.

It wouldn't be hard to get a piece of 3/4” black plumbing pipe and cut it a tad longer, then cut some threads on it.

I have a pipe on my bench right now if you want the stock length.

Dave

Sun Feb 07, 2021 2:44 pm

djkeev wrote: 1/2” is a lot of oil filter thread gone....Dave

Good point. That wouldn't fit on my engine anyway because I have a Mocal sandwich adapter with tencent's oil cooler.