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lil-jinx Wed Dec 09, 2015 7:44 pm

Getting ready to install the dog leg,Question is how do I weld the top part to the b-pillar as I can't get at it from the inside because of the inner boxed in support?

lil-jinx Thu Dec 24, 2015 8:23 am

Pass side door has a little rust,[surprise] cleaned it up and patched the outer panel,still need to fix the bottom corner and the inner bottom,will cut up a door off the parts bus to make a patch for the bottom.Also cleaned the inner wheel well,that was fun.






lil-jinx Thu Apr 21, 2016 4:25 pm

I got the dog leg installed,now i'm onto the nose under the windshield.the blue bus is my donor,the white one[Ethel] is rusted all across the bottom,I will weld in the new piece from the donor,which is in good condition I have removed the plug welds from the air vent and will replace down to that point.at the sides I may cut from the signal light openings up on an angle to the windshield opening.I am also replacing the inner box section with the outter section.








lil-jinx Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:22 am

Cutting and fitting panels,I removed the panel from the blue bus and cut away the center section of Ethel, now trying to make it all fit together, had thought to cut straight up from the light holes and do the ends separate
,but that would leave a lot of room to mess it all up, so I think I will cut from the top of the lights to the windshield frame at the a-pillar on an angle, that will leave me with just 2 welds showing, that a should be able to hide with the grinned and a little filler.








lil-jinx Fri Sep 09, 2016 8:02 am

Did a little more welding and cleaned some of the filler from the front,under the blue paint there is a rubberize coating that can't be sanded off,so scraping and cleaning with acetone is what I have been doing,also welded up the holes from the tire mount and the emblem



lil-jinx Fri Oct 07, 2016 12:54 pm

Got the nose cleaned up,applied 2 coats of rust mort using a scouring pad,get another coat tonight then washed,cleaned and a coat of epoxy primer.Then to work my way back along the right side finishing to primer,then "maybe"get the engine squared away for install,and "Maybe get it driving for next summer,and work away at the left side,I have the sheet metal for the left side.then "MAYBE" get a coat of paint on it.
That's a lot of maybe's but it's all for fun,I have never sat in a running bus.so maybe someday I will.

Spike0180 Fri Oct 07, 2016 1:13 pm

Looks like it is coming along well. Good job.

lil-jinx Thu Oct 13, 2016 7:07 am

Sprayed front with proform epoxy primer,used a small k3 spray gun,not much bigger then a air brush,but it did the trick,seemed to work well for small areas,pattern about the same as a rattle can.looks much the same as it did before i touched it,but now i know what it is and it's rust and filler free.
I cleaned it with dawn then rubbed it down with rust mort several times with a 3-m red pad ,then 2 days later washed it down with dawn again and another pad then sprayed and wiped it with acetone,then epoxy primer,hope that works to keep the rust away.I used a heat gun to dry it after each dawn wash to help with the flash rust.


1967250s Sat Jan 14, 2017 10:36 pm

Looking veryy nice. Brilliant on the windshield fitting!

lil-jinx Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:32 pm

Thanks,I just hope that the windshield fits.

Manfred58sc Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:14 am

Buy the best quality seal you can, the budget varieties are often a bit fatter than need be (causing hell on installs). Nice work

lil-jinx Mon Jan 16, 2017 10:41 am

I have got a German seal from cip1 and also have front door seals and the sliding door seal,getting them all,they don't come cheap,like every thing else for those buses.
Fitting that front piece in was a pain and hard to finish at the body lines,trying to minimize the need for filler.
Thanks for looking,Nelson

dwill49965 Mon Jan 16, 2017 11:02 am

Looking good. I did the rockers on my bus last winter, and am doing the doglegs this winter (well, I am helping and watching, while Joey does the real welding work and fitting and fabrication where necessary).

Do you think it will be on the road this summer? Where in NB are you located?

lil-jinx Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:01 pm

I don't think it will be on the road this summer,I am now getting the engine sorted out and want to have it mobile later in the spring,still a lot of rust to deal with on the driver's side,dogleg ,rockers,rear arch,jack points and who knows what else may be hidden.I'm just playing at it,never driven a vw of any kind except my dune buggy,that I built a few years ago,and have not gone camping in in the past 40 years,a couple more won't matter much.
I live just outside of Moncton.

Smurf Tue Jan 17, 2017 4:49 pm

lil-jinx wrote: I don't think it will be on the road this summer,I am now getting the engine sorted out and want to have it mobile later in the spring,still a lot of rust to deal with on the driver's side,dogleg ,rockers,rear arch,jack points and who knows what else may be hidden.I'm just playing at it,never driven a vw of any kind except my dune buggy,that I built a few years ago,and have not gone camping in in the past 40 years,a couple more won't matter much.
I live just outside of Moncton.

Good job on the repairs man.

It looks like you kept the sliding door track intact while replacing the inner rocker? How did this turn out for you? Did you keep your door on and how did it affect the alignment when putting it back on?

I'm looking to do the rockers on my bus because the inner rocker is toast and full of hack jobs. The middle w/ sliding track seems to be OK and the outer rocker is all patched as well.

lil-jinx Tue Jan 17, 2017 7:10 pm

My inner,middle and outer rockers were rusted bad,filled with spray foam and covered with tar.
The top half of the middle rocker was good,I removed the outer,it was only attached at the top,Then I cut the middle rocker along the bottom of the track ledge,it was good above that.The inner rocker is spot welded to the floor and that part of the floor was rusted out so instead of cutting out the spot welds I cut a the floor,that left it free except at the top hats and the jack points,I then cut the inner between the top hats and drilled -cut the inner away from the top hats.
When I cut the floor away I tacked small strap from the door sill to the floor to keep the sill from moving,the door fits good and closes good,I took it off and put it back on a bunch of times to check fit as I worked at it.
I made my inner rocker,don't reccomend doing that.I have gerson panel for the left side and due to shipping mix-up I also have a right side rocker,which I have no use for.
Not a bad job,just take your time and cut it out a little at a time.For me the welding is the worst part of it ,I'm not a good welder.

Spike0180 Wed Jan 18, 2017 8:03 am

Smurf wrote: lil-jinx wrote: I don't think it will be on the road this summer,I am now getting the engine sorted out and want to have it mobile later in the spring,still a lot of rust to deal with on the driver's side,dogleg ,rockers,rear arch,jack points and who knows what else may be hidden.I'm just playing at it,never driven a vw of any kind except my dune buggy,that I built a few years ago,and have not gone camping in in the past 40 years,a couple more won't matter much.
I live just outside of Moncton.

Good job on the repairs man.

It looks like you kept the sliding door track intact while replacing the inner rocker? How did this turn out for you? Did you keep your door on and how did it affect the alignment when putting it back on?

I'm looking to do the rockers on my bus because the inner rocker is toast and full of hack jobs. The middle w/ sliding track seems to be OK and the outer rocker is all patched as well.

If you can get someone that is parting out a bus to cut you out the whole piece, from C-Pillar to D-Pillar and give you some of each pillar, I would do that. It's a lot of work to get it all to line up correctly and being able to just weld in a full piece would have been great and assure that it is straight (not bent from welding heat) and top notch metal.

lil-jinx Wed Jan 18, 2017 9:20 am

Yes fresh parts would be great,I live in eastern Canada,if the road salt don't get ya then the sea salt will,not many bus been parted around here.I did get an old rusted heap that I have been cutting parts from,got sections of the ABC pillars plus the piece under the windsheild to use on Ethel.
Paid $400 for the parts bus,money well spent for me,got a locked up 1800,which I freed up,# 4 had mud in the cylinder,if the case is good I will rebuild it,also had both seats which I needed,plus many small parts that I needed.

Yarkle Wed Jan 18, 2017 9:45 am

lil-jinx wrote: Yes fresh parts would be great,I live in eastern Canada,if the road salt don't get ya then the sea salt will,not many bus been parted around here

I hear ya man..I live in Coastal Maine (way down by the bottom). I coulda bought a 72 parts bus for 800 bucks a few years ago and i didnt, and theres been many times more than 800 bucks i could have used between my bus and my sons.

at the time i passed on it cuz i figured it wasnt restorable, and was looking for something for my son, not realizing the potential it had as a donor vehicle/shed.

But if that was the stupidiest thing id ever done id be a happy camper

Smurf Wed Jan 18, 2017 12:34 pm

lil-jinx wrote: Yes fresh parts would be great,I live in eastern Canada,if the road salt don't get ya then the sea salt will,not many bus been parted around here.I did get an old rusted heap that I have been cutting parts from,got sections of the ABC pillars plus the piece under the windsheild to use on Ethel.
Paid $400 for the parts bus,money well spent for me,got a locked up 1800,which I freed up,# 4 had mud in the cylinder,if the case is good I will rebuild it,also had both seats which I needed,plus many small parts that I needed.

PA is salty as all heck as well :( I think you did a great job with that middle rocker. Tacking it to the floor like that was a great idea. It only takes a minute to pull the slider on and off to check for alignment of other parts.

Spike0180 wrote: If you can get someone that is parting out a bus to cut you out the whole piece, from C-Pillar to D-Pillar and give you some of each pillar, I would do that. It's a lot of work to get it all to line up correctly and being able to just weld in a full piece would have been great and assure that it is straight (not bent from welding heat) and top notch metal.

I wish I could get a parts bus or just a rust free shell and ditch what I got lol Parts buses around these parts are big $$$$ and most of them need the same amount of work that my bus needs. My bus isn't a rust box but the inner rocker has been patched on top of patch to save it so that the rust wouldn't get to the middle rocker. Same as my outer rocker...patch on patcH :(



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