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Mon Feb 02, 2004 9:40 pm

When the car is cold (after 3 min warm-up @ start up always) it will have a lot of sputters some feel like they are going to snap my neck. This happens every time I crankup in the morning (or when ever its been resting for a while) and the first 10-15 mins. of driving. 1-2-3-4th gear doesn't matter it sputters then goes. The timing is set 7.5*tdc valves adjusted .006 everthing is right. But on the carb there is a jet that stuck. My question is, can the jet on the carb. be the only reason for the jerks, and if so why does it stop when its had time to really warm up?Just need it to make since. Thanks for the input! :lol:

Mon Feb 02, 2004 9:54 pm

I also get the occasional backfire, never the drop to the floor gun shot.
Thanks again for any input.

Mon Feb 02, 2004 10:20 pm

One posible cause for this is insuffecient advance on the distributor. If you are running a stock distributor, you may want to check the vaccum advance line to make sure it is properly connected. If you are using an 009 or some other purely mechanical advance, the advancing mechanism may be restrcted somehow.

Mon Feb 02, 2004 10:28 pm

It could also be caused by bad spark plugs, spark plug wires, points, or even coil. A mis-fire could explain the backfire of unburnt fuel collecting in your exhaust system, and the hesitation. It stops when it's warmed up because warm air/fuel mixture requires less ignition source than cold fuel. You can sometimes hear your engine diesel after running for a long time on a hot day if you aren't running stock carbs. Thats the air/fuel mixture combusting on it's own without the spark under it's own heat and pressure. Thats why your engine runs fine hot.

Wed Feb 04, 2004 12:51 pm

The carb Rusty has in his Ghia is a 30-PIC3. I think it's a carb issue that we haven't remedied yet. When you set the idle to 800-900 rpm on the throttle screw and then adjust the single fuel screw on the left side of the carb- you can srcew it all the way in and the idle doesn't change. When you go to back it back out the idle will drop when it's almost all the way backed out. Exactly the opposite of what it should be doing. The tiny brass slotted plug on the right side of the carb is jacked so we can't get it off to see if the pilot jet is blocked. Any tips?? We've already gone through and freed up the advance mechanism on the dizzy, and he has new points, plugs, wires, and condensor.