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  View original topic: Weber or 34Pict3 ?
DanGreen Thu Feb 05, 2004 3:36 am

I've been asking around and most of you say stick with the stock carb for a stock engine. I've got a weber progressive installed right now on my stock DP 1600cc and its running ok. So what I did was buy a 34Pict3 with dp intake and manifolds (used) off of ebay. The carb was described as rebuilt but when I got it today the hole that the 'Idle Air Bypass Cut Off Valve' screws into is stripped and the IABCOV wont screw in! Will some plumbers tape work for this?

So....I went to the mechanic and asked him to check out the carb. He wasnt much help, he was too busy calling me an idiot because I thought it would be better to put the 34Pict on. He told me the Weber is alot better than the stock solex 34Pict3 and it also adds about 8 more horses to the engine. I really dont feel the difference so what do you all recommend?

HamburgerBrad Thu Feb 05, 2004 4:09 pm

first, the weber progressive? i have that on my 1680cc and runs like shit bottom end, i dont know if its jetted wrong, or whats up with it. as far as the stock carb, especially the 34s, they dont take well to rebuilding. ive rebuilt german carbs that arent as good as new brazilian or mexican.

keifernet Fri Feb 06, 2004 2:37 pm

if the threads on the 34 are stripped then teflon tape will/ may cause the electromagnectic cutoff solenoid not to be "grounded" in the carb and function properly. this could be bypassed by clipping off the plunger and making it non functional, although the 34 never seems to run/idle quite right when this is done.

what distibutor are you running? are you sure of your timing settings and the rest of your engines tuning, i.e. valve adjustment etc.

the progressive is sometimes tricky to tune, depends on if it has been messed with alot by someone ( ie "rebuilt" ) and not done right or the jets switched around.
definantly want to check the accel pump output and how fast it begins to squirt when you move the throttle ( true of tuning any carb for peak performance)
I know unclebob already gave you the link in another thread...this one to the tuning guide

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61687&highlight=weber+progressive+tuning

so have you tried tuning it any yet?

If you are looking for a bit more performance the progressive should give that even on a basically stock engine. it should run about as well as a 34 Pict 3 and get fair milage if you keep your foot out of the secondary (unless you really need it). Then you have the extra power for a freeway ramp or a hill or passing when you stomp on it. Progressives do not (IMO) offer " drag race" performance, just added mid/top range power.

Daily Driver Bajabug Guy Sat Feb 07, 2004 12:15 am

If you MUST go with a stock setup (34pict3 & 1600) I'd also throw out that centrifugal advance bosch 009 that everyone uses on their performance engines & get an SVDA (centrifugal + vacuum advance!) which eliminates that deadly flatspot that we all learned to hate in that 1600/34pict3/009 setup. There is no way to get rid of it. It will always be there at least a little to the point where you can barely notice it. Plus you get 4+ more mpg, cooler running engine, & no more flat spot.

This is the way i'm going with my bajabug since I will be driving it to & from work & I enjoy taking it up the hills for a quick refreshing romp.

Currently have a 009. I don't like to over accelerate on takeoff just to get going without having that head-jerking flatspot. Imagine making a left hand turn on a green light(no arrows) yielding to trafic in the center of the intersection & then taking off followed by a flat spot & oh no! I didn't see that compact car comming! %@$%[email protected]%#$%$ you are now F*CKED! Broadsided on the passenger side & your fiance was killed by a Geo Metro Lsi ;0)

P.S. SVDA's run you about 100 bux without roter & cap
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/distributor.htm

keifernet Sat Feb 07, 2004 2:11 pm

The flat spot can be worked through.... to say it can never be tuned out is inaccurate.
some carbs make it worse... it's not all the 009's fault. and depending on how you time it and where set the timing, and how you set the carb/ accel pump etc...you can at least minimize the flat spot and in alot of cases ( I seem to be able to do it, and so do plenty of others) eliminate it.

DanGreen Sun Feb 08, 2004 2:10 am

Thanks for the link Phat Man! I understand my carb setup alot more after reading it.

Friday I got payed and I decide to treat my bug to a good ol' engine degreasing and carwash so I drove it down to the carwash and went to work. Looks way better now and the funny thing is after I did that it started to idle a little better. That night I read the link about carbs and ignition and finally understood what was going on with my setup. I got up yesterday morning to time my 009 and try and get rid of the flat spot but what do you know?! Flat spot was gone! Well, it still hesitates a little but not as bad as it did. Still needs timing and valve adjustment but once thats done it will run great I just know it! :P

Chris181Westy Sun Feb 08, 2004 7:30 am

I have been running 009 dists and a 34pic3s for years, I have had no dead spots, no problems at all. I have had great performance with that setup.



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