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Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:30 pm

So i aquired a buggy from a friend of mine a few years ago. i was all ready to get it on the road and have my fun with it. upon tearing down the motor i found ou that it was worn out. so 2 years later i have got a couple of motors to rebuild and so now it is time to get this project going

back when i got it i started the tear down but ended at the boat anchor engine so i will post the pics that i have to date and will update when i have new ones

this is what it looked like upon getting it

Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:31 pm

and a shot of the dash

Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:31 pm

and the start of the tear down

Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:32 pm

and the pan stripped of the body

Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:34 pm

and the removal of the floors
which was done tonight, the rest of the pictures where from 2 years ago

i am planning on using some 1"x2" tubing to build the outer frame and then use some 1/8th or 1/16th sheet for the floor

Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:40 pm

Cool Buggy! Except for the dash, it is a close Manx clone.

I suggest the 1/16 inch thick floor. 1/8 is way overkill and adds a lot of un-necessary weight. I use 14 Gauge metal for floors and it is a touch overkill, but works nicely. The 1 X 2 tubing does make a nice outside rail.

Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:40 am

thanks for the info
but now i am wondering if i should go 1" up or 2" up
i am going to do some more research before i start making it

Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:04 pm

cdnltded wrote: thanks for the info
but now i am wondering if i should go 1" up or 2" up
i am going to do some more research before i start making it

2 X 2 boxed tubing makes a nice 1 inch lift on buggy. If you use the 0.120 wall, or 1/8 wall tubing, you do not need to sleeve the inside to keep from crushing the tubing.

A 1 inch lift is subtle and nice that it raises the windshield a touch and gets your eyes looking through the center of the windshield. And effectively sits you lower in the body.

Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:26 pm

thanks Joe

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:05 pm

so i am preparing to fab up my floor pan and frame. i noticed on my body where it attaches to the there is a lip i am using 2x3 with the 2 being vertical and the 3 flat. do i just cut that little lip off?

Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:27 am

I only use the 2 inch portion on the horizontal part so I can leave the factory lip. Plus, less sticking inside to interfere with seat tracks.

Sun Apr 12, 2015 9:53 pm

well i started my floors tonight. got both the outer rails done, now i have to grind the up and cut them to length. way easier then i thought it would be

Mon Apr 13, 2015 3:40 pm

Nice work!

Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:09 pm

impaleale wrote: Nice work!

thanks

Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:57 pm

so
a hot, sharp piece of steel = one cut that hurts like hell but does not bleed

Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:59 pm

anyway got some progress done tonight
got the outer frame smoothened out and tacked into place
i am really happy with the results, some fine tuning of course but a welder is only as good as his grinder
:lol:

Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:24 am

Looks good!

Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:41 pm

joescoolcustoms wrote: Looks good!

thank you Joe

Sat Apr 18, 2015 6:34 am

so i have a question to those who have the knowledge
i have 2 different pedal assemblies
one is from the early 60's and one from the late 60s to early 70s
the second has the gas pedal on the assembly.
which one would be better to use.
and where do i locate the pedal stop with either
thanks in advance

Sat Apr 18, 2015 7:59 am

The older cast pedals look nicer and would be appropriate for your frame. I know the clutch cable location was moved inside the tunnel at least once. How far in from the edge the tube is located is the only critical dimension. If it is the same as both of your pedal assemblies then the one to use is up to you. I can say from experience that using a roller pedal in the early pedal assembly is a bit uncomfortable on long drives.