TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Apr 07, 2015 4:45 pm

Doing some rust proofing.

What do you guys think is the Best choice for replacing the fluffy Batten Insulation that caused most of the rust headaches that I tossed?

Looking for something that won't absorb moister and that is a little flexible so I can maneuver it into place, with a decent insulating factor..

What about Spray on Foam?

Or Maybe nutten at all. Mine is a Westy but I do believe that Tintops don't have the Batten Chit in there.. Do They? :roll:
.

Tue Apr 07, 2015 5:05 pm

I am going to direct you to the FAQ section. Scroll down to insulation.....
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6236057#6236057

Dave

Tue Apr 07, 2015 7:50 pm

When I removed my kitchen, I removed the fiberglas insulation and replaced it with hushmat and 1/2 inch Dynaliner (a closed cell foam). So far it has worked very well.

Tue Apr 07, 2015 10:43 pm

What adhesive for the dynaliner?

Wed Apr 08, 2015 12:53 am

The insulation question has been brought up before but the FAQ doesn't have the adequate answers. We could make this thread into next contribution to the FAQ. :)

I've been using rattle can spray foam similar to Great Stuff sold at Home Depot and I think it is superior to glass wool. Not because it is closed cell but it is way better in insulating, it expands into cavities and such.

The glass wool is falsely accused for being a rust trap, I've been taking wool out from camper vans that are totally clean from rust. The problem is leaking windows. There is a thread somewhere where we discussed the wool and some guys re-applied it but wrapped the wool in construction plastic film (not aging) to prevent it from sucking up water.

I have treated the panel insides with a uge amount of rust wax like waxoyl and then added a layer of thin plastic film, same as you use in a kitchen. I've used the film to make sure the foam doesn't stick so it will be easier to take it away without too much cutting and scraping if you have to. Then sprayed it.
If you can get 2K foam somewhere it is the best option as you can "mold" an entire panel in one go, with the rattle can version you have to apply it several times. As long as you don't stress the process it will end up with a nice result. Anything sticking out after expansion you just cut away with a knife when it has cured.

A bonus is that when the foam has hardened or if you use glass wool wrapped in plastic you can re-wax without having the insulation soaked with wax.

My two cents, good luck!

Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:14 am

luVWagn wrote: What adhesive for the dynaliner?

Both the hushmat and Dynaliner have an excellent adhesive backing. You just cut to size and peal the backing paper as you go. Make sure it is properly lined up, the adhesive really sticks. Nice and clean and easy to install. These products are approved for automotive use by the big automakers.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:21 am

i am just doing my van (spring cleaning). on the floor i am going to use EPDM glued/stapled to a 1/4" of ply, and then covered with another 1/4 of ply (to get the clearance needed without grinding off that unused bracket in the middle of the floor.

i am not sure about the wall. i am more cautious because there is a propane fridge and stove right there. my worry is that adhesives may fail in the heat and it'll flop up against the flue. probably unlikely, and yeah, if i was super paranoid, i probably would not line my floor with flammable rubber.

Tue Mar 23, 2021 4:11 pm

Westified wrote: When I removed my kitchen, I removed the fiberglas insulation and replaced it with hushmat and 1/2 inch Dynaliner (a closed cell foam). So far it has worked very well.

This looks pretty nice. I'm a new owner of a 84 Westfalia and digging in to take care of the typical rust issues. How has this worked out for you?

Also, what did you put on your floor. It looks like you coated that with something as well.

Tue Mar 23, 2021 5:53 pm

I did basically this exact same scenario. I lined the inside of the outer panels with dynamat extreme sound deadening and then 1/2 dynaliner as a thermal insulation. So far im very happy with this combo. No moisture issue and a noticeable decrease in road and engine noise and increase in warmth during winter months. I used to have a tough time conversing with my kids in the back seat prior to insulation, now i can talk to them no problem. I listen to my radio at a lower volume setting and my kids dont complain about being cold. I really went to town and insulated every square inch that i could. Worth the effort. If you look at the first page of my thread, there is some info on the insulating i did in my van.

Tue Mar 23, 2021 6:50 pm

It has been several years now and the dynaliner and hushmat are still working great. No rust and it keeps the heat out since the lower half of my van is brown. I highly recommend it. The self adhesive on both have worked well. Regarding the floor, I painted it with color matched Benjamin Moore paint. The paint I used is for the floor of metal buildings. It is very durable and has held up well. I cleaned the floor and used POR-15 metal prep on it before painting. Good luck with your 1984 Westy.

Sun Aug 28, 2022 5:28 am

svenakela wrote: The insulation question has been brought up before but the FAQ doesn't have the adequate answers. We could make this thread into next contribution to the FAQ. :)

I've been using rattle can spray foam similar to Great Stuff sold at Home Depot and I think it is superior to glass wool. Not because it is closed cell but it is way better in insulating, it expands into cavities and such.

The glass wool is falsely accused for being a rust trap, I've been taking wool out from camper vans that are totally clean from rust. The problem is leaking windows. There is a thread somewhere where we discussed the wool and some guys re-applied it but wrapped the wool in construction plastic film (not aging) to prevent it from sucking up water.

I have treated the panel insides with a uge amount of rust wax like waxoyl and then added a layer of thin plastic film, same as you use in a kitchen. I've used the film to make sure the foam doesn't stick so it will be easier to take it away without too much cutting and scraping if you have to. Then sprayed it.
If you can get 2K foam somewhere it is the best option as you can "mold" an entire panel in one go, with the rattle can version you have to apply it several times. As long as you don't stress the process it will end up with a nice result. Anything sticking out after expansion you just cut away with a knife when it has cured.

A bonus is that when the foam has hardened or if you use glass wool wrapped in plastic you can re-wax without having the insulation soaked with wax.

My two cents, good luck! Quote:

Hi thinking of trying this but the rust product I have "DYNAX -S50" may not be sticky enough to stay in place on a wall - cling film/foam might slide off - which rust wax did you use and did it need to dry before using the plastic kitchen film? Thanks

Mon Aug 29, 2022 9:29 am

Akrover wrote: Also, what did you put on your floor.
I'm not Westified, but we put rattle-trap in the "valleys," then put black closed-cell foam over all, then put Pergo™-style thin hardwood (acacia) flooring over all.

The foam makes it feel just a bit spongy, but it's holding together well. We countersunk two screws on the first piece (behind the driver/passenger seats) and two in the last piece (in front of the rear seat), and then the metal bracket along the door holds everything down well.

I see some people run their flooring along the long dimension of the van. We opted for running it along the short dimension, to make sweeping easier.