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Sat Apr 08, 2023 3:07 pm

So, rather inconveniently, my front transmission mount decided to shit the bed but of course only after the rebuilt transmission was installed. The rubber part started separating from the backing plate and though it was still mostly holding together, it allowed extra movement of the transmission leading to some clunking noises mostly at idle as presumably some part of the transmission case was contacting the subframe or the tunnel.

Anyway having heard horror stories of the front mounts that are available these days, I ordered a couple so I would have options. I ordered one from CIP which was advertised as their "five star" OEM-quality product and I ordered one from Wolfsburg West. I sent an email to ISP West asking about the origin of their mount but I didn't hear back.

A funny thing about the WW mount is that the pics of it on their site make it look terrible but in real life it's not so bad. :D

Here are some comparison pics:

First, Wolfsburg West.

Now, CIP 5-star:

And then the other side.

WW:

CIP:

Right away I noticed some quality-of-manufacture differences. You'll note that the WW has correctly-sized indents around the mounting stud holes for the washers that go under the nuts.

CIP has indents, but ain't no washers fitting in there. Also I noticed on the CIP that the mount stud holes are not quite round and I'm not entirely sure if they are in the correct place. See below:

Also the snubber that goes into the frame on the CIP mount is shaped pretty weird, but the rubber mounting sleeve does still fit over it.

Of course the main deciding factor as to which one I would use was this:

That's on the WW mount. I couldn't find any manufacturer information on the CIP mount.

I have no way to assess hardness of the rubber. I installed the WW mount today and I really hope it holds up because I don't want to do that job again for a long time.

Tue Sep 19, 2023 4:09 pm

Does anybody have a rough estimate of how much the rear subframe weighs? I'm talking bare, with nothing installed but the torsion bars and spring plates.

Tue Sep 19, 2023 8:34 pm

sjbartnik wrote: Does anybody have a rough estimate of how much the rear subframe weighs? I'm talking bare, with nothing installed but the torsion bars and spring plates.

25-30 pounds. I recently had one stripped down to just the frame and that would be my guess on weight

Wed Sep 20, 2023 4:20 am

ibjack wrote: sjbartnik wrote: Does anybody have a rough estimate of how much the rear subframe weighs? I'm talking bare, with nothing installed but the torsion bars and spring plates.

25-30 pounds. I recently had one stripped down to just the frame and that would be my guess on weight

I think Jack is on the juice 8) .

I think it's closer to double that. If no one has a solid answer by this afternoon I can weigh one of mine.

Wed Sep 20, 2023 10:25 am

ibldrc wrote: ibjack wrote: sjbartnik wrote: Does anybody have a rough estimate of how much the rear subframe weighs? I'm talking bare, with nothing installed but the torsion bars and spring plates.

25-30 pounds. I recently had one stripped down to just the frame and that would be my guess on weight

I think Jack is on the juice 8) .

I think it's closer to double that. If no one has a solid answer by this afternoon I can weigh one of mine.

I think you're closer than Jack is on the weight. It being an odd ball shape makes it hard to weigh. I know I leaned one up on the spring plates before, and used a hand truck to move it around the yard. It had some weight to it. It was an IRS unit too, so I don't know if it weighs more or less than a swing axle unit.

Thu Sep 21, 2023 5:43 am

sjbartnik wrote: Does anybody have a rough estimate of how much the rear subframe weighs? I'm talking bare, with nothing installed but the torsion bars and spring plates.

It's 71 lbs, '64 swing axle, not IRS.

Thu Sep 21, 2023 7:22 am

Thanks guys! Just wanted to have a rough idea what to expect when I take it down :D

Wed Oct 18, 2023 10:47 am

Hi all,
This post goes out to all the early car parts hoarders.

I have just done a windshield wiper rehab, replacing the dried out grease in the motor with corn head grease and the linkage pivot lube with Super Lube. I also replaced the wiper shafts with NOS from Mario because the ends of my old ones were all chewed up leading to lots of slop and chatter from the wipers.

The project went beautifully! The only caveat was that the NOS wiper shaft repair kits I got were missing one of the clear plastic caps that goes over the wiper shaft outside the car before the arm is installed. This was noted in the listing for the kit so I knew that going in.

Turns out my car did not have them at all. Now I have one. I can see it’s not super critical but I can see it would be nice to have and it will help keep water from infiltrating the wiper shafts and bearings over the long term. So if any of you early guys has an extra you’d sell me, hit me with a DM. 😊

Apparently they were used through 1968 and the parts book has them as part number 311 955 275, “bearing cover.”

Wed Oct 18, 2023 11:43 am

Those early wiper shaft caps are damn tough to find and pretty essential in wet climates, esp. with salty air from the Atlantic where you are. I have been searching high and low myself for several sets. If ISP can make right side side markers, maybe they could make these. :D

I put in a request on the side marker thread.

Thu Oct 19, 2023 1:29 am

Tram wrote: Those early wiper shaft caps are damn tough to find and pretty essential in wet climates, esp. with salty air from the Atlantic where you are. I have been searching high and low myself for several sets. If ISP can make right side side markers, maybe they could make these. :D

ISP has them for Type 2 Bus- wonder if the shaft dia is close?
https://vwispwest.com/wiper-shaft-cap-bus-1967-211955275/

Thu Oct 19, 2023 10:51 pm

If no one makes them, it is always possible to make a small batch on a lathe. Or even 3D printing would be an option.

Fri Oct 20, 2023 12:56 pm

Ace Hardware probably has a selection of rubber caps.

Sun Oct 22, 2023 10:38 am

I made a set today. Made it of PA6 scrap I had laying around.

Sun Oct 22, 2023 1:39 pm

mdege wrote: I made a set today. Made it of PA6 scrap I had laying around.

I thought WCM sold them. I know that's where I got them for my wife's car and my 71 Notch. On those cars, the black cap covers the shaft nut at the body. I don't know if there's 2 different sizes for the wiper arm shaft sold or not though. I only mention that, as early cars used a 6 or 7mm shaft, while later cars used a 8mm shaft.

I know I wrestled with the shaft to body seals when I converted my 65 to using 70 style bolt on wiper arms. In that case I used case half seal (top and bottom) to seal any water leaks. The holes in the body were just barely large enough for the later parts to be used, and the later body seals were too large to fit the holes.

Mon Oct 23, 2023 12:36 am

These are not the seals between the body and the shafts.

These seals go over the rotating shaft and keep moisture out.
The later cars don't need them because the wiperarms cover the area.

Mon Oct 23, 2023 10:03 am

After a very rainy weekend of driving around the Berkshires and the car sitting out in pouring rain, I’m happy to report that my (well-timed) wiper rehab was a success. The wiper action is now nice and smooth with no chattering at all temperatures. And no water leaks into the car. Now I just need one of those seals. :lol:

Mon Oct 23, 2023 10:05 am

sctbrd wrote:

ISP has them for Type 2 Bus- wonder if the shaft dia is close?
https://vwispwest.com/wiper-shaft-cap-bus-1967-211955275/

Unfortunately, Bus is too small.

Sun Jan 21, 2024 1:40 pm

Replaced the subframe bushings today using the new ISP West kit.

Not a difficult job, once you've got the engine and transmission out of the way.

I used my Harbor Freight motorcycle/ATV jack under the subframe and lowered it down a few inches, enough to get to all the bushings.

This was also the first time I learned about those little compartments in the luggage compartment where you get access to the bolts for the upper mounts. I found a ton of leftover blasting sand in the right side one. :lol:

As for the old bushings, the ones for the front mount looked pretty good when they came out. The ones under the beam were probably the worst, visibly squished down thinner than the new ones.

The upper ones also looked squished compared to new, but I think it's pretty clear those squish down when you install them so an uninstalled comparison of size is probably not meaningful. I did it anyway:

We will see when engine and trans go back in as to whether that helped my engine ride height relative to the body. I do have a sneaking suspicion that the worn bushings were the reason my shift coupler cover plate doesn't *quite* fit between the subframe and frame and you have to really fiddle with it to get it in and out of place. We shall see.

Sat May 04, 2024 3:05 pm

Hi all! Would love some input on an annoying problem I've been having ever since I had the transmission out for rebuild last winter.

It's a bit of a clunk from the rear. Seems to be concurrent with suspension action but sometimes occurs when vehicle is stationary and if engine is idling a bit slow or rough (like immediately after a hot start). If you've ever had a loose shock bushing it kinda sounds like that, but it's not that. Also it only happens after driving a few miles, presumably when whatever it is gets warmed up. I've pretty much run out of ideas after ruling out the following things:

- Rear axle nuts are torqued properly
- Wheel bolts are torqued properly
- Ruled out rear wheel bearings
- Ruled out rear shocks
- Ruled out subframe bushings (they are new and all fasteners are tight)
- Ruled out front trans mount
- Ruled out rear trans mounts
- Front trans mount nuts are tight
- Front trans mount snout is snug in the hole in subframe
- Ruled out spring plate bushings
- 2 big bolts connecting trans carrier to subframe horns are torqued
- Bolts connecting axle tubes to spring plates are torqued properly
- Ruled out engine contacting engine lid or body
- Ruled out loose fit of rear hatch latch

Any other ideas? If I haven't figured it out by the Invasion (and apparently I won't) then maybe I can have some guys ride along and try to figure it out. :lol:

Sun May 05, 2024 5:30 am

how about the motor mount in the engine bay near the rear and towards the top that has a male portion on the motor and the female bolts to the car?
you mentioned you took the engine out so just a thought