VWinVT |
Sun May 10, 2015 4:26 am |
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Our van is scheduled for a respray next winter. I have been reading here about the Monstaliner option and I must say I am starting to consider this option. I currently have an air cooled motor, although long term plans are to do a Subaru swap.
My first concern is related to the weight of the Monstaliner. How heavy is it? I don't want to stress out my poor air cooled motor any more than it already is!!!
My second question is around refitting the windows and seals. Are there any fitment/sealing issues when installing the windows with new seals?
Thanks |
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djkeev |
Sun May 10, 2015 5:32 am |
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I've zero answers to your questions......
But........
Their info states that the product contains 70% solids. I assume the balance are suspension to carry the solids and evaporate. If so the dry weight will be 70% of the raw product.
Have you looked at their download pages?
http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_downloads.htm
Dave |
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insyncro |
Sun May 10, 2015 6:01 am |
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It is heavier than paint.
When applied heavily, doors will make a much more solid sound when closed, the rear hatch will need HD struts and when used in conjunction with LizardSkin sprayable barriers on the interior...WOW, amazing how the tinny van is transformed.
ML is not for a purist.
It offers many advantages.
The interior and exterior areas are really easy to apply.
Figuring out how to cut in tight places is a bit of work and unless done with speed, the product will be tightening up on you.
Be ready to work fast, have a plan and most importantly, have respirators and fans in play, this stuff really starts to off gas once the entire chassis is covered.
On my next application, I will be wearing a Typar suit and full face 3M mask with dual respirators.
No, you do not want to breathe this stuff for hours and certainly want to keep it off your skin and out of your lungs.
Tape everything off you don't want it on.
It splatters off the roller.
You can purchase tape with wire in it for very hard cut lines that you want perfect.
The build around seals and windows is totally up to the installer.
Roll too heavy and you will have issues.
I seal all windows in with SikaFlex and have not had any issues. |
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VWinVT |
Sun May 10, 2015 1:22 pm |
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Thanks for the input. I am not to concerned with "factory correct" in this case as function slightly out weighs form as far as rustproofing and durability go. I have read ovEr the info on their webpage and I like everything about it. We have 2 very young kids and I want the van to last for a very long time and I don't want to have to be worrying about scratches and dings on the paint.
The site says 2 coats is sufficient. Will 2 coats require the heavy duty hatch struts? My only concern is adding another 50 -60 pounds to van, my poor little air cooled motor is maxed out already!
I am considering standard paint in the window openings/lips, where the seals fit, to avoid any issues there. I have a respirator and a 3 bay garage set up for painting with a big ventilator fan, my lungs will be safe! |
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djkeev |
Sun May 10, 2015 3:14 pm |
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I just remembered,
Check with "unplanned bar b q" he is in the midst of redoing his 86 Weekender and did some sort of texture on the body.
His user name isn't spelled correctly ^^^ but root around, you'll find it.
He has posted numerous times in my Vanagon build thread, you can find his username in it.
Dave |
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newfisher |
Sun May 10, 2015 5:29 pm |
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Insyncro has done a few and what he posted above is spot on. Have a plan, be ready, work safe. I would pm him for ideas before you start.
I used linex on the roof, lower outer panels and fat mat on the inner panels then painted the van with conventional base/clear. I also used a 3m rocker texture over the front nose for chip protection. As quiet as mine is now, ill bet the monstaliner over the entire inside and outside would really quiet things down! |
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vanagonjr |
Sun May 10, 2015 6:54 pm |
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I am wondering about this as engine compartment paint. I cannot spray where the van is now (shared garage and engine is out) and curious about applying it with a brush as I do not think that a roller suits the crevices, corners and ins and outs of the engine bay. |
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jasonpap2002 |
Sun May 10, 2015 7:09 pm |
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Insyncro is spot on. I painted my van a couple of years ago and learned a lot - next one would be different.
Prep is key with any paint - monstaliner is no different.
Clean clean clean. And make triple sure you are careful with any corners, especially concave, like all the seams. Clean it and prep it well.
Good thing - they run a tight ship, I had to redo my bottom half b/c was told you can paint over black coating - wrong, don't do it. I ordered a second small quart and matches perfectly with the original.
I'd do it again - but as said, spend some money on skin and lung protection - and if you have a buddy to help, even better. The corners take a bit of time and it's drying literally as you look at it.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=584170&highlight=jason+monstaliner
Good luck and show photos!
I had not problem with windows (I left mine in). I replaced a seal afterwards and it fit great.
~Jason |
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VWinVT |
Mon May 11, 2015 11:08 am |
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insyncro wrote: It is heavier than paint.
When applied heavily, doors will make a much more solid sound when closed, the rear hatch will need HD struts and when used in conjunction with LizardSkin sprayable barriers on the interior...WOW, amazing how the tinny van is transformed.
ML is not for a purist.
It offers many advantages.
The interior and exterior areas are really easy to apply.
Figuring out how to cut in tight places is a bit of work and unless done with speed, the product will be tightening up on you.
Be ready to work fast, have a plan and most importantly, have respirators and fans in play, this stuff really starts to off gas once the entire chassis is covered.
On my next application, I will be wearing a Typar suit and full face 3M mask with dual respirators.
No, you do not want to breathe this stuff for hours and certainly want to keep it off your skin and out of your lungs.
Tape everything off you don't want it on.
It splatters off the roller.
You can purchase tape with wire in it for very hard cut lines that you want perfect.
The build around seals and windows is totally up to the installer.
Roll too heavy and you will have issues.
I seal all windows in with SikaFlex and have not had any issues.
Insyncro, did you roll the whole van with the 2 inch rollers supplied by with the kit? Seems like it would take along time.
Thanks |
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dkoesyncro |
Mon May 11, 2015 7:42 pm |
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You gotta take care of your lungs...
The monstaliner went on easy although not effortlessly. The cab had lots of angles to negotiate. Total time to apply was about 7 hrs. and a few days in preparation.
The off gassing took a week or two, smelled like chocolate cake! |
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insyncro |
Tue May 12, 2015 7:55 am |
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VWinVT wrote: insyncro wrote: It is heavier than paint.
When applied heavily, doors will make a much more solid sound when closed, the rear hatch will need HD struts and when used in conjunction with LizardSkin sprayable barriers on the interior...WOW, amazing how the tinny van is transformed.
ML is not for a purist.
It offers many advantages.
The interior and exterior areas are really easy to apply.
Figuring out how to cut in tight places is a bit of work and unless done with speed, the product will be tightening up on you.
Be ready to work fast, have a plan and most importantly, have respirators and fans in play, this stuff really starts to off gas once the entire chassis is covered.
On my next application, I will be wearing a Typar suit and full face 3M mask with dual respirators.
No, you do not want to breathe this stuff for hours and certainly want to keep it off your skin and out of your lungs.
Tape everything off you don't want it on.
It splatters off the roller.
You can purchase tape with wire in it for very hard cut lines that you want perfect.
The build around seals and windows is totally up to the installer.
Roll too heavy and you will have issues.
I seal all windows in with SikaFlex and have not had any issues.
Insyncro, did you roll the whole van with the 2 inch rollers supplied by with the kit? Seems like it would take along time.
Thanks
The supplied rollers are 3-4".
You can buy a 9" roller at stores that sell DryLoc masonry products. |
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RocketBox |
Tue May 12, 2015 8:04 pm |
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So now I'm curious - how many gallons does it take to paint a van? |
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insyncro |
Wed May 13, 2015 4:56 am |
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RocketBox wrote: So now I'm curious - how many gallons does it take to paint a van?
I have used 4 gallons on the interior and exterior of Kyle's Westy and could have used one more for touch ups, cutting in and using up the rest on the lower quarters where it will see the most abuse.
He will cut in the rest when the hi top replaces his Westy top. |
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VWinVT |
Wed May 13, 2015 7:59 am |
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I was thinking just the 2 gallon kit would be sufficient for the exterior, but it sounds that a bit more will be needed to not have any unfinished spots. |
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VWinVT |
Thu May 28, 2015 5:25 am |
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Does anyone have Monstaliner that is 4, 5, 6 or more, years old? Just curious about its long term look... |
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insyncro |
Thu May 28, 2015 5:43 am |
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Due to the texture and roller method, I do not see how 2 gallons could do the entire exterior and cut in all doors.
Even after the second application, you can see deep in the texture, spots where it is primer.
I plan to ML one of my vans in the fall and plan to use 3gallons for the exterior and one extra gallon just for the lower quarters, especially the seam areas.
Having completed a few ML vans now...epoxy primer is highly recommended as the under layer. I prefer to use the Magnet Paints epoxy and S8 reducer.
This product really seals well and the ML bonds well to it. |
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insyncro |
Thu May 28, 2015 5:49 am |
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VWinVT wrote: Does anyone have Monstaliner that is 4, 5, 6 or more, years old? Just curious about its long term look...
Not on a Vanagon.
Search Jeep forums and you will see it well used and 5 years old.
Most Jeep Guys spray clear over the ML.
I am seeing why with the lighter colors, white and creams.
The clear will help keep them from showing any chalkyness over time and harshness from the elements.
Black is the strongest of the Poly Urea products and I feel the same for the two part products like ML and Raptor. |
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VWinVT |
Thu May 28, 2015 7:08 am |
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I had not considered 'clearing' the monstaliner. But , I think it may be well worth the extra step. I plan to go with the 'Outbreak' or the 'Midnight Special' shades of blue. They are fairly dark and will probably hold up well, but I want to be sure that I am not looking at it in 6 years wishing I had. I can't wait to go camping this summer, but I also can't wait for the winter so I can get the windows out and gat this ol' girl painted and looking sharp!! |
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