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Machinist Mon Jan 28, 2019 10:55 am

I just purchased a new aluminum bubble top VW block for my 2276 and trying to decide if I'm going to do the Bob Hoover modifications. Do you guys feel it's really beneficial or should I just leave it along. I did the lifter grooves only on my old assembly and when I pulled the motor down after 3000 miles I had an excess of burned oil around the valve heads. Not sure if it was getting too much oil and filling the valve covers where it was entering the guides or just due to slightly worn guides. I installed new guides to eliminate that possibility but am still not sure about messing with the new block and lifters. Opinions?

slalombuggy Mon Jan 28, 2019 6:40 pm

Engine specs and how do you drive it?

I did the mod to my CB and there was a big difference in the amount of oil in the rocker box.

brad

vwracerdave Mon Jan 28, 2019 9:21 pm

I slot the lifters and enlarge the center cam oiling port on every engine I build.

esde Tue Jan 29, 2019 10:25 am

It's pretty well agreed that the VW engines need help getting oil to the heads, and if you run dual springs, the extra oil can also help cool them.

jeffrey8164 Tue Jan 29, 2019 5:36 pm

I’m very close to building my 2276 and fully intend to exploit every mod.

mark tucker Tue Jan 29, 2019 5:51 pm

I do ,although I was doing them before I ever heard of bob hoover. so,... I may start calling mine the electrolux mods. :shock: like everything I do it's different than most. slotting lifer bores has nothing to do with oil on the intake valve heads any more than oil on the front bumper. well thats not entirely true, if you dont have any oil in the engine to lube the lifter bores than you probably wont have the issue of oil on the valve heads either...... :wink:

raul arrese Wed Jan 30, 2019 5:25 am

I would check that case very closely , do the mods cause they need all the help they can get ..

Ryan Tucker Wed Jan 30, 2019 5:59 am

Been searching for the thread explaining these oiling mods, not found it yet.
Link?

challomoner Wed Jan 30, 2019 6:05 am

Ryan Tucker wrote: Been searching for the thread explaining these oiling mods, not found it yet.
Link?

Type hoover into the search bar and you'll find a ton of info.

Also known as hvx mods. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&...szhXvHSNdG

FreeBug Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:49 am

I think a lot of us treat our engines like kids, and we all want our kids - sorry -engines to succeed in life to their full potential.

So of course you put in the time, money and effort to raise - sorry - build your engine to give it every advantage in this competitive environment.

Of course you do Hoover mods, it doesn't hurt* and could really help, like judo lessons.


*unless you break through to the outside when you drill out that long channel. Or break your toe in judo.

slalombuggy Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:49 am

The aluminum cases are much thicker. As long as the drill goes in straight, there is very little chance of going through the side.

brad

ALB Wed Jan 30, 2019 12:22 pm

If you're worried about going through the case- fill the depression with 1/2" of epoxy. Give the area a good sand with rough paper beforehand.

vwracerdave Wed Jan 30, 2019 12:34 pm

Bob Hoover Blog http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2007/05/hvx-mods.html

Ryan Tucker Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:13 pm

Thanks a lot Dave thats what i was looking for, i put the hoover mods in the search bar and read through lots of threads but never found this direct info. I saved it to my bookmarks and will read through it tonight. Thx again
Ryan

jimmyhoffa Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:21 pm

If one grabs a beverage of choice, and sits down and looks carefully at a set of unmodified cases, no logical person would say "yep, looks like everything gets oiled equally, I have no business in here!" For me that was reason enough. I can't imagine a world in which additional oiling to the 1-2 side wouldn't help.

If you want to see if you're cutting it super close or have some safe space or need to do the epoxy precaution trick, stick a drill through the existing lifter oiling bore and zero a depth mic on it, or something similar.



Then take your "depth mic or something similar" and stick it at the lowest point in the casting well next to the last lifter bore to see how sketchy it's going to be. In my case, not even close to danger.



That could also probably be accomplished with a piece of grid wire, a BBQ skewer and sharpie.

mark tucker Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:35 pm

jimmyhoffa wrote: If you want to see if you're cutting it super close or have some safe space or need to do the epoxy precaution trick, stick a drill through the existing lifter oiling bore and zero a depth mic on it, or something similar.



Then take your "depth mic or something similar" and stick it at the lowest point in the casting well next to the last lifter bore to see how sketchy it's going to be. In my case, not even close to danger.



That could also probably be accomplished with a piece of grid wire, a BBQ skewer and sharpie. there are still some whoom could hit air before oil on a case with lotsa room to spair....just sayen. I also check mine like that!! you can also drill from the cam gear side(end of the gally and them add a plug but thats somewhat weekenining the cam tower. you also dont need to go with a "full size drill" as your just suplementing the oil supply with another feed. and if you widen the center cam tower grove only widen and deepen on one end of the groove on both sides of the case.( the side away from the bearing tang)0,I think its rearward side that needs the widening/deepending a little. the reason is....that bearing tang knotch is already real close to the groove and real close to the stroker clearancing. the groove should of been moved rearward on the new castings...but it wasent, like everything else it's a half ass attempt at a race case...well almost, but it is a lot better than the mag crap. if the extra weight bothers you ...just go take a crap and be done. but dont forget to slot the lifter bores and open the cross feed from the main gally...and dfl coat the cam bearings too.

nsracing Thu Jan 31, 2019 2:23 am

I don't Hoover anything. If you are just going to use a handgrinder on those new lifters, don't bother.

I just hate molesting fresh lifters. But if you must, a Dremel with cutting wheel will do a fine job making the slit or slot however you want the groove to come out.

Good luck

mark tucker Thu Jan 31, 2019 8:45 am

I wont slit the lifters.although I have removed the center band all together before.

Machinist Thu Jan 31, 2019 9:58 am

Mark Tucker, what do you mean by "dont forget to slot the lifter bores"

vwracerdave Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:36 am

Machinist wrote: Mark Tucker, what do you mean by "dont forget to slot the lifter bores"


Mark is a machinist by trade. Mark puts a slot in the case lifter bores instead of the lifters. You always modify the cheapest part. Mark is being very irrisponsable by telling people to wack up a $800 case instead of a $75 set of lifters. You always modify the cheapest part.



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