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Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:34 pm

Nope. I took out an 002 3 rib and put in an 002 3 rib.

Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:48 pm

I called Eric over at Transworks this morning. He measured an input shaft and came up with the same legnth you have, 9/16. Looks like you are ok with the one you have.

Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:09 pm

aeromech wrote: I called Eric over at Transworks this morning. He measured an input shaft and came up with the same legnth you have, 9/16. Looks like you are ok with the one you have.

Thanks for making the call. I really appreciate the effort. I still have no idea what's causing my difficulties but I'm grateful for the help.

Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:44 pm

9/16?! Someone previously called out that dimension at 1 1/16 in., and I nodded my head, because that's exactly what my spare trans has. It's a rebuilt 002 of unknown source,
has a 72-74 002 clutch housing, and was taken out of a functional and pretty much stock '68 bus (it had the narrower '68 clutch housing on it at the time).
Is there really that much variation in that part?

Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:02 pm

He spoke like his was some kind of kodified shaft. Cant remember the term he used. The point was that 9/16 wasnt too short.

Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:14 pm

kreemoweet wrote: 9/16?! Someone previously called out that dimension at 1 1/16 in., and I nodded my head, because that's exactly what my spare trans has. It's a rebuilt 002 of unknown source,
has a 72-74 002 clutch housing, and was taken out of a functional and pretty much stock '68 bus (it had the narrower '68 clutch housing on it at the time).
Is there really that much variation in that part?

There is a difference in protrusion of the tranny input shaft between a Type 1 (9/16") and Type 4 engine (1 1/16"). The length includes a taper of about 3/16 - 1/4" for either application so it is possible the OP needed to add more taper to his shaft to get sufficient clearance within the gland nut.

Wed Jun 10, 2015 2:34 pm

Mike, with the engine out, does it shift smoother? Have you tried disconnecting the shift coupler and manually selecting gears using the shift input shaft going into the nose cone?

Wildthings wrote: The length includes a taper of about 3/16 - 1/4" for either application so it is possible the OP needed to add more taper to his shaft to get sufficient clearance within the gland nut.

This is getting my tentative vote as well. I've mulled over it again and again, and it seems that the whining sound originally experienced in your early posts is the synchros trying to do their job, but are unable to beacause the input shaft is frozen to the engine. You have 9/16" clearance PLUS the width of your straightedge. Plus no chamfer. Definitely chamfer the edge of the shaft like an original; let us know if you need a picture or measurement.

If nothing else, the chamfer will make it easier to line up your engine for install.

I can't see through the cellphone pictures to really scrutinize the input shaft, but if I could I'd be looking for wear like a mad man.

Still meditating on this,
Robbie

Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:09 pm

Umm, looking at the pics of the shifter, it looks like it is rotating in the ball socket. Can you pull out the shifter and check to see if the pin is there on the ball at the bottom?

Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:47 pm

1967250s wrote: Umm, looking at the pics of the shifter, it looks like it is rotating in the ball socket. Can you pull out the shifter and check to see if the pin is there on the ball at the bottom?

Nice job picking up on that

Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:55 pm

PROGRESS! Sorry for the delay in responding but family responsibilities have kept me out from under the bus. So I went to see George at Import Vehicle Technicians in Pasadena. He's seen everything and he always will give advice on how to fix it yourself rather than take your money. I described my symptoms and showed my pictures and he asked a lot of the same questions you guys did. He asked what I had already tried and when I got to describing the clutch cable replacement he paused and thought. (If you don't know George he is the KING of the thoughtful pause) He went to a drawer and fished out a bag of these clutch cable arms. He must have had twenty of them and they were all different. The one on the bottom is my original and you can see where it has worn almost to the point of failure. The one on the top is the replacement I bought at a local part shop.

Here is the clevis pin I replaced due to excessive wear:

I tried to line of the horizontal where the clutch arm attaches to the pedal assembly so you can see the difference in the angle of the arms. After what seemed like 3 minutes of silent thought, George said he was pretty sure that my problem was I had the wrong arm and that the pedal was not giving me enough throw to disengage the clutch. He also said the new clutch cables have much shorter forks than the originals so he said I should file down one corner of the fork to allow more clearance for the cable. So armed with a new clutch arm and this information, I reassembled the clutch pedal assembly and put the engine back in. I really didn't think this was going to work but IT DID! I now have a functioning clutch.

Quote: Umm, looking at the pics of the shifter, it looks like it is rotating in the ball socket. Can you pull out the shifter and check to see if the pin is there on the ball at the bottom?

the pin is there. You can kind of barely see it in one of my blurry pictures

Now as far as shifting goes it is still very tight. It requires a lot of effort to select a gear. There is no grinding but it does sometimes take quite a shove on the stick to select a gear. George said it can take a while for new transaxles to "loosen up." Anyone else have experience with this?

Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:43 pm

mranker wrote: it can take a while for new transaxles to "loosen up." Anyone else have experience with this?

yes

Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:47 pm

Interesting stuff. I've heard of so many people having odd issues like this where the clutch doesn't fully disengage, that I cross my fingers every time I have to touch that system.

I wish I had a fancy new transaxle to see what these "tight" gears feel like… 8)

Fri Jul 15, 2016 8:54 am

Type I 002 input shaft protrusion from face of bell housing

aeromech wrote: mranker wrote: OK engine out and the input shaft clears the mating surface of the transaxle by 9/16".

I called Eric over at Transworks this morning. He measured an input shaft and came up with the same length you have, 9/16. Looks like you are ok with the one you have.

Fri Jul 15, 2016 2:56 pm

I recognize those greasy fingers! 1 year update: clutch and transmission are all working well after many 1,000's of happy miles. The shifting has significantly loosened up. Throws have gone from forceful shoves to perfect slots.

Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:42 pm

Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth.

Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:46 pm

Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth.

Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:46 pm

Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth.

Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:46 pm

Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth.