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Sun Jul 31, 2022 6:54 pm

SGKent wrote: a common point of failure is the receiver dryer perforates and scatters the dryer throughout the system. That plugs things. You'll likely need to pull it down, purge and flush it, put a new RD in it, and start over if that is it. Make sure when you do that the pump seal isn't leaking at all or you will be back in it again.
Was thinking about replacing the receiver/dryer just to get a fresh dryer (I initially installed the system in '75, so it most likely needs it). Will do a 'crud check' on the expansion valve and its feed hose when I get it out...

Pump seal shows no sign of leakage.

Quote: If you had a low side of 20, a high side of 140 as you posted, and it was 75F outside, then that pressure was correct. I have seen units ice up and deliver no cold.
These pressures were measured on an initial system startup. The low side quickly dropped to a low pressure (usually, it's in the mid 40's), but not a hint of cool air, and it wasn't a hot day.

Sun Jul 31, 2022 7:02 pm

78BusGA wrote: In Northeast Georgia I saw a nearly gutted 1974 tintop with the internals of the DPD intact. Is it worth pulling that for spares when I eventually get to my 1978, or will they be too different?

I'd grab whatever was available. These things are hard to find.

Mon Aug 01, 2022 7:34 am

Balidas wrote: 78BusGA wrote: In Northeast Georgia I saw a nearly gutted 1974 tintop with the internals of the DPD intact. Is it worth pulling that for spares when I eventually get to my 1978, or will they be too different?

I'd grab whatever was available. These things are hard to find.

They're not only hard to find, they're FRAGILE. The plastic was not UV safe, and will split, crack, or crumble to dust at a harsh look.

I'd love to see some mad bugger take an intact unit and make a new mold for them. I'd love to be that person, but my schedule is about as insane as everyone else's.

Mon Aug 01, 2022 8:00 am

webwalker wrote: Balidas wrote: 78BusGA wrote: In Northeast Georgia I saw a nearly gutted 1974 tintop with the internals of the DPD intact. Is it worth pulling that for spares when I eventually get to my 1978, or will they be too different?

I'd grab whatever was available. These things are hard to find.

They're not only hard to find, they're FRAGILE. The plastic was not UV safe, and will split, crack, or crumble to dust at a harsh look.

I'd love to see some mad bugger take an intact unit and make a new mold for them. I'd love to be that person, but my schedule is about as insane as everyone else's.

That is an absolute! I was surprised at how good a shape my unit is in and why I want to coat mine with Raptor Liner.

Mon Aug 01, 2022 8:41 am

Would anyone know where to purchase the 8" x 36" condensers?

Wed Aug 03, 2022 3:09 am

Telford, the TXV I used was a Murray 38683. Same fittings as the original, but with superheat calibrated for R134a. If that number is no longer valid, this TXV fits the rear AC for a 84 Chevy Suburban. If you stay with R12 this TXV may still work fine, even though it will throttle refrigerant at slightly different pressures

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1398011.jpg

Wed Aug 03, 2022 3:17 am

Jonny dot, I found my condensers from a place called Omega Engineering. They make evaporators and condensers for nearly any application imaginable but they don’t sell direct to the public. Just google their website and find the part number you need then search for it on eBay or Amazon

Wed Aug 03, 2022 3:29 am

69BahamaYellow wrote: Jonny dot, I found my condensers from a place called Omega Engineering. They make evaporators and condensers for nearly any application imaginable but they don’t sell direct to the public. Just google their website and find the part number you need then search for it on eBay or Amazon

so did you end up using 3 condensors like they originally came out with ? if so, what sizes were they ?

also i couldnt find omega engineering (but we might need something different here in australia)

Wed Aug 03, 2022 6:01 am

69BahamaYellow wrote: Jonny dot, I found my condensers from a place called Omega Engineering. They make evaporators and condensers for nearly any application imaginable but they don’t sell direct to the public. Just google their website and find the part number you need then search for it on eBay or Amazon Thanks mate but I cannot find them :-(

Wed Aug 03, 2022 6:08 am

Here is the link; https://www.omega-usa.com/quote.php?lang=en

I sent them an e-mail asking about the condensers we are looking for.

Most of the measurements I've seen are mm, so the size we need are 203mm x 914.4mm.

Wed Aug 03, 2022 5:54 pm

Keep in mind that while the condenser(s) need to fit the available space, You need to have about 20% more condensing capacity than evaporator capacity. Ideally this would be measured in BTUs, but since we have no idea what the evaporator capacity is in BTU, a close approximation is volume. The length times width times thickness of my evaporator was around 460 in.³ so you need 500+ cubic inches of condensing capacity if you have a similar sized evaporator. A 10”x 30”x 1” thick condenser gives 300 in.³ as an example, so you would need two of these to have enough. More Condensing capacity is better. I can’t emphasize this enough.

Mon Oct 03, 2022 10:18 am

Balidas wrote: Here is the link; https://www.omega-usa.com/quote.php?lang=en

I sent them an e-mail asking about the condensers we are looking for.

Most of the measurements I've seen are mm, so the size we need are 203mm x 914.4mm.

Considering the original design had 3x condensers, 2 are the same size and the one up the front was more square..

Does anyone know the middle condenser of the two rectangular ones on either side are 203mm x 914.4mm ?

Tue Oct 04, 2022 2:59 am

They are 10”x27”

Tue Oct 04, 2022 3:15 am

69BahamaYellow wrote: They are 10”x27”

So 2x condensors are 10”x 27” how about the one at the front of this diagram ?

Wed Oct 05, 2022 4:29 pm

Found my parts list for the condensers as follows:

(Qty2) New Parallel Flow Condensers 10” (254mm) x 27.5” (699mm) x .984” (25mm), middle 24-30296 $167.34 eBay/B&T Auto LLC / virtual-ac.com / 336-245-1661
(Qty 1) New Parallel Flow Condensers 12” (305mm) x 20” (508mm) x .866” (22mm), front 24-50005 $74.67 eBay/B&T Auto LLC / virtual-ac.com / 336-245-1661

Wed Oct 05, 2022 7:31 pm

69BahamaYellow wrote: Found my parts list for the condensers as follows:

(Qty2) New Parallel Flow Condensers 10” (254mm) x 27.5” (699mm) x .984” (25mm), middle 24-30296 $167.34 eBay/B&T Auto LLC / virtual-ac.com / 336-245-1661
(Qty 1) New Parallel Flow Condensers 12” (305mm) x 20” (508mm) x .866” (22mm), front 24-50005 $74.67 eBay/B&T Auto LLC / virtual-ac.com / 336-245-1661

That’s awesome, super helpful!

Wed Oct 05, 2022 7:56 pm

69BahamaYellow wrote: Found my parts list for the condensers as follows:

(Qty2) New Parallel Flow Condensers 10” (254mm) x 27.5” (699mm) x .984” (25mm), middle 24-30296 $167.34 eBay/B&T Auto LLC / virtual-ac.com / 336-245-1661
(Qty 1) New Parallel Flow Condensers 12” (305mm) x 20” (508mm) x .866” (22mm), front 24-50005 $74.67 eBay/B&T Auto LLC / virtual-ac.com / 336-245-1661 Would you have an ebay link ?they are not coming up in my search

Sun Feb 26, 2023 6:00 am

I have a early 71 bay with a working AC, which was restored 3 years ago.
The unit works pretty well, but for maintenance I need some input.
Because the work was done abroad from a previous owner,
I have no chance to get in touch with this workshop, which did the restoration.
I have a workshop near by, which would do the maintenance, but they want to know the filling quantity.
The layout from the AC is still the same. Just the dryer bowl is a bit smaller. That difference I could calculate, I still have the original one.
Does anyone have the maintenance manual for that AC? I searched within the tech directory, but got no results.
Other question: what is the best way to treat the "white" plastic body to make it less brown
without just painting it. It is a patinated bus, it does not need Blendax white.

Sun Feb 26, 2023 6:47 am

I used gel peroxide that is for hairstyling to whiten the hull of a fiberglass sailboat and it worked well. I brushed it on, let it sit for 20 minutes and washed it off. From yellow to white just like that. Reading about it, people suggest that UV light really helps the process. Some use a hand held light. I just had sunlight coming through the window of the barn. I got a gallon delivered to me from Amazon for $25. The product name is Stabilized Cream Peroxide Developer 40V HC-50404. I read about people using it on vintage white yellowed computer plastic and other plastic parts.

Sun Feb 26, 2023 9:06 am

According to this: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/vw_a_...201973.pdf it uses 52 oz of R-12.