kamzcab86 |
Thu Sep 17, 2015 9:34 pm |
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mtwesty84 wrote: Love your setup kamzcab...have you had any issues running that ARB 50 on your setup with Solar? Wishing you had a bigger battery?
No issues so far. The 100W panel tops the battery up within an hour of full sun hitting it. Parked at Laguna Seca for 4 days in August, the system never gave me any cause for concern.
I do wish I had more amp hours in the battery, but more for a margin of error, so to speak, and for potential system expansion (i.e. more electrical gizmos). The battery was already in place when I decided to replace the ice chest with an ARB, so I gave it a chance and it's been working well. When the battery dies, I'll get one with more amp hours.
mtwesty84 wrote: Wondering where you found the parts to convert the GW city water to Andersen hook-up? I am looking at doing the same thing with SAE 2 connectors.
I mis-typed earlier: They're 45-amp Anderson Power Pole connectors (not 40). I bought the connectors (10-pack because I knew I'd screw up installing them without the special tool... and I certainly did) and mounting plate (aka clamp) at Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=searc...ole+45+amp . The plate was mounted to a small piece of Plexiglass I had in stock, which was screwed to the GW hookup after removing the water connection.
I don't like SAE connectors (have had too many go bust), but I know a few Westy owners out there use this in the city hookup: http://www.amazon.com/Luggage-Electrix-PTB-001-Sad...+connector . |
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Hnoroian |
Thu Sep 17, 2015 10:06 pm |
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I'm glad this thread came up. But a question for all of you, I've been having a difficult time finding the pros and cons of having a acr vs a standard solenoid to distribute the power, I am looking for a simple reliable setup to do two batteries. I have noticed in the diagrams that people have used either one or the other and some have used both. Can someone please send me the right way, I am thoroughly enjoying the diagrams |
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SCM |
Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:40 am |
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Hnoroian wrote: acr vs a standard solenoid
One of the pros of an ACR is that it allows batteries to charge when the vehicle is not running, like if you're using a solar panel or another charging source other than the alternator.
This is important to me since my van sits all winter. I can plug trickle charger into the outlet of my garage, hook it up to my auxiliary battery, and keep both that and the starting battery charged up for when the van comes out of hibernation. |
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Hnoroian |
Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:21 pm |
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That definitely helps, now I've got to decide how I want to spend my money and would it be worth it for my situation... Thanks guys, I'll be keeping tabs on this thread :D |
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Jamo7 |
Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:41 pm |
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Hi there,
I could use some feedback on my proposed aux battery set up as shown below. (I apologize for bad handwriting and cell phone pic. I hope you can read it!)
Primary questions:
1) The Blue Seas Circuit Wizard app recommends 4AWG for my ACR/battery connections based on my input of 65 amps load and bundling the three 4AWG wires together from the aux battery to be located under the drivers seat to the sink cabinet location of the ACR. Does 4AWG sound sufficient? Is this overkill?
2) The ampacity of the 4AWG wire given the length and bundling I specified was 73.5A. I thought to put in a 70A fuse to protect the wire (Blue Seas AMR or MIDI) Is this the right reasoning? Is 70A a sufficient fuse?
3) In the installation photos I’ve seen, the fuses are placed near the ACR. I have read elsewhere that fuses are to be placed near the batteries. Given the size of the group 41 batteries in the battery boxes, it will be easier to place and check the fuses in the sink cabinet nearer the ACR. Will this be ok given the wire gauge and fuses shown?
4) The Blue Seas 2.1A USB and 12V socket panel that I am interested in purchasing for the back seat carries a 15A circuit breaker. I use the 12V cig liter and a 2.1A dual USB outlet next to it in the front. Should my USB circuit as shown in the drawing carry a fuse of 30A, or is 15A sufficient?
5) I saw the other day the recommendation for 12AWG wire for a Propex. Online the draw is specified at 1.4A. Is a 5A fuse sufficient? What are other people using?
That’s all the questions I can think of. If I have miscalculated my load, then I will recalculate my ACR wiring gauges.
Thanks for all your feedback!
James |
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lucianosanchez |
Tue Oct 04, 2016 11:54 am |
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I've bookmarked this topic because I plan on doing this on my van soon. I didn't even know where to start but now I do. Those diagrams are very helpful. Thank you all! |
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Stephenmarklay |
Tue Oct 04, 2016 12:32 pm |
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Jamo7 wrote: Hi there,
I could use some feedback on my proposed aux battery set up as shown below. (I apologize for bad handwriting and cell phone pic. I hope you can read it!)
[diagram]
Primary questions:
1) The Blue Seas Circuit Wizard app recommends 4AWG for my ACR/battery connections based on my input of 65 amps load and bundling the three 4AWG wires together from the aux battery to be located under the drivers seat to the sink cabinet location of the ACR. Does 4AWG sound sufficient? Is this overkill?
2) The ampacity of the 4AWG wire given the length and bundling I specified was 73.5A. I thought to put in a 70A fuse to protect the wire (Blue Seas AMR or MIDI) Is this the right reasoning? Is 70A a sufficient fuse? With the information provided yes.
3) In the installation photos I’ve seen, the fuses are placed near the ACR. I have read elsewhere that fuses are to be placed near the batteries. Given the size of the group 41 batteries in the battery boxes, it will be easier to place and check the fuses in the sink cabinet nearer the ACR. Will this be ok given the wire gauge and fuses shown?
4) The Blue Seas 2.1A USB and 12V socket panel that I am interested in purchasing for the back seat carries a 15A circuit breaker. I use the 12V cig liter and a 2.1A dual USB outlet next to it in the front. Should my USB circuit as shown in the drawing carry a fuse of 30A, or is 15A sufficient? I would use a 15A. I don’t know the length of 10AWG wiring but if you have say 10 feet 30 amps would be pushing it.
5) I saw the other day the recommendation for 12AWG wire for a Propex. Online the draw is specified at 1.4A. Is a 5A fuse sufficient? I would use a 3 What are other people using?
That’s all the questions I can think of. If I have miscalculated my load, then I will recalculate my ACR wiring gauges.
Thanks for all your feedback!
James
See my comments above. |
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kjono09 |
Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:58 pm |
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So the key to my circuit is this awesome on - delay relay that let's me charge both batteries from the alternator 8 seconds after start. This coupled with an 80 amp battery relay makes this circuit truly awesome. You do not want both batteries always starting the car and handling all of the startup transients.
Amazing product!
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/my-link-ezp-15.html |
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jokeraus |
Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:13 am |
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above the trans install. wiring diagram is mia
.
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kjono09 |
Thu Oct 06, 2016 9:10 am |
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So know I have learned the right way of doing this and have all the tools to make custom battery cables the right way.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1978362 |
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kbeefy |
Sun Oct 09, 2016 5:48 pm |
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Jamo7 wrote:
Excellent Cocktail napkin diagram!
I think 4ga is overkill for most of it. 8ga will do fine. Maybe 4ga from your starting battery to your aux battery just to be safe. But I don't think a group 41 would ever support that sort of charge amperage, nor would your alternator. 70A fuses are overkill. You will never see 70A of charge current unless you add alot more batteries and a serious battery charger. I would say that 30A is plenty, both charge and load side. |
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LemonCove |
Mon Oct 10, 2016 10:20 pm |
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Top" Layout with batteries on pass side, Propex relocated under access lid (original VW rear heater removed).
Middle: Shows 2 Costco/Interstate Group 27 Marine lead acids, onboard ProMarine charger, compartment for Bostig ECU and BlueSea ACR,
vents in fascia (storage for jack and folding shovel under lid/behind propex).
Bottom: Finished appearance |
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brownbetty |
Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:56 am |
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In reference to the three battery setup of smurfpike, is it necessary or recommended to include another blue seas acr between #2 and #3 batteries? |
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jimf909 |
Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:12 am |
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jokeraus wrote: above the trans install. wiring diagram is mia
.
This is Vanagon nirvana for me: adds functional storage to vacant space; puts the batteries in a safe, central location while keeping them more accessible than putting them between the frame rails under the van.
Well done!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
Someday I’ll make the cut. |
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smurfpike |
Thu Apr 19, 2018 2:34 pm |
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brownbetty wrote: In reference to the three battery setup of smurfpike, is it necessary or recommended to include another blue seas acr between #2 and #3 batteries?
I ran battery 2 and 3 in Parallel so I did not think I needed a blue seas acr. |
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fxr |
Thu Apr 19, 2018 6:37 pm |
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smurfpike wrote: brownbetty wrote: In reference to the three battery setup of smurfpike, is it necessary or recommended to include another blue seas acr between #2 and #3 batteries?
I ran battery 2 and 3 in Parallel so I did not think I needed a blue seas acr.
The problem with that is although this is fine when the (hopefully identical) batteries are new and in good condition - when one of them starts to fail (a shorted cell is the usual scenario) then both the good and the now bad battery will be over-charged, and the complete failure of both will be imminent. An extra ACR now is cheaper than two new batteries in the not-so-distant future. |
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smurfpike |
Thu Apr 19, 2018 7:20 pm |
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fxr wrote: smurfpike wrote: brownbetty wrote: In reference to the three battery setup of smurfpike, is it necessary or recommended to include another blue seas acr between #2 and #3 batteries?
I ran battery 2 and 3 in Parallel so I did not think I needed a blue seas acr.
The problem with that is although this is fine when the (hopefully identical) batteries are new and in good condition - when one of them starts to fail (a shorted cell is the usual scenario) then both the good and the now bad battery will be over-charged, and the complete failure of both will be imminent. An extra ACR now is cheaper than two new batteries in the not-so-distant future.
That is good to know, thanks I will do this next time. |
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andersjohanssen |
Sun May 27, 2018 10:03 am |
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I am about to set this up in my van. The relay is so that my batteries will isolate when the car is off so that my ProSport battery charger can charge the batteries individually.
Will post pics after. Tell me what you think.
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eyemtrees |
Sat Jun 23, 2018 1:21 pm |
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Hi all, I've just got a third hand vanagon with a GoWesty Solar Panel and Zamp Solar Charge controller behind the driver's seat. Looking at the diagram before trying my panel for the first time, I see there should be a fuse between the panel and the controller, just as there is between the controller and battery. I can't see one on the panel's long cord/wire. Is it built into the panel in those little boxes on the back of the panel itself? |
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coqcitywesty |
Tue Jul 03, 2018 1:58 pm |
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Okay, so my install is pretty much complete - the list of items used to create the install is as follows - all from Blue Sea Systems unless noted:
ACR - 7610
Switch Panel - 4315 (USB 1045 - Voltmeter 1733)
50A Breaker - 7139
50A Circuit Breakers - 7157
Battery Switch - 9001E
On-board Charger - ProMariner 12
Fridge - TF49 with RMW install kit
LED House & Reading Lights - Acegoo (Amazon)
So far everything works as planned with the actual wiring gymnastics undertaken by a colleague using the diagram I provided. Giving credit where due, I did use a lot of the previous work by Hodakaguy and others on this forum (thanks folks).
Wiring Diagram:
Switch Panel (controls power to each load + monitors battery health):
Group 27 Kirkland DC (120 AH) + wiring install (and yes, ACR is grounded)
LED House Lights + LED Galley Light (house lights are controlled by a rocker switch installed above sliding door)
LED House Lights On (daytime)
TF-49 Install using RMW install kit
ProMariner Installation
Reading Lights (we typically sleep in the bottom bunk, so this works for us - they double as a night light with the blue led rings)
All in all, things are working well and I am pleased with the results. Questions or comments are welcomed. |
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