TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Aug 14, 2015 7:07 am

Hey Folks,

After many attempts on Google search with limited success, I am here to ask for help.
I'm trying to get my Bus running, what I have us 2.0L, with factory carbs, the OE carbs are dead. Due to worn out bushing and aging components.
I'd installed a Weber Progrssive that was included with the purchase of the Bus.
The Bus starts up after 1 1/2 cranks. The throttle cable is not hooked up, how does the throttle cable hook up to the carb? Looking down on the engine bay, the throttle cable protrudes out on the left side of the tin, and the carb is more centered? Is there a bracket that suppose to go there, and how does the end of the cable hook up to the carb linkage? Any pictures and part number will be great.
Thank you, Jay

Fri Aug 14, 2015 7:47 am

Hi Jay,
You haven't said what year the bus is but I'm going to assume it's a 1972-1974. In order to hook up the throttle cable I believe you'll need to drill a hole in the firewall tin that lines up with the carbs throttle linkage and reroute the throttle cable through the new hole. This places the new hole over the top of the transmission slightly to the passenger side. Be sure to only drill the hole say 1/4 inch or so because you'll want the tin to act as a stop for the cable sheathing and only have the cable extend forward to the carb. Don't foregt that you need a vacuum port for the power brakes. Here's some pics.

1974 bus with progressive

Brake booster vacuum connection

Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:06 am

Thank you for the reply and the photos. I had it mounted the opposit way have it with the idle mixture towards the firewall. The way I had mounted seem to make sense, the throttle cable is pulling towards the firewall and the carb pulley is pulled the same direction.
I had switch the carb mounting as you have it and trying to figure out how throttle pulley actuate the throttle plate, or are there extra parts I have to purchase?
I had read about the inital set up, turning the idle mixture two turns out from bottom, and the throttle stop set as in the instruction. The motor starts after a couple of cranks, but the motor dies when I try to manually give it throttle? I am so confused by this?

Thank you, Jay

Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:38 am

For future reference. Cut the cable with a cable cutter, or tape the cable tight with electrical tape and cut with a 32 fine tooth hacksaw.
Solder the end and install it in the throttle cable end or extension. The one with the screw in it.

Wire cutter

Good Day
Tcash

Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:50 am

Anyone in Corona, CA can help this pathetic soul with his Bus?

Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:56 am

Just to be clear Tim, the pics show the way this bus came to me. I would never do that crappy of a job as shown in the pics.

Jay,
Can you post some pics? These carbs were used on a lot of different cars over the years and I'm wondering if the one you have is correct for the bus.

Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:01 am

I have a Weber DFAV on my 1973 1700cc bus engine. It works just fine. Here are a few pics:

I made the small bracket on the left so I could attach a return spring to assist the throttle cable. The phillips head screw was added by me. I chose stainless for the hardness:

Don't mind the fuel filter... that's long since been moved.

Before the engine refresh, this is what it looked like. Note that you can see the throttle cable disconnected and pointing upwards over the carb at a 45 degree angle. I did not have to drill or route the cable in any fashion, but simply improved the way it operated on the bell crank.

Note that these carburetors can be mounted either Right or Left.

Editorial:

I have always advocated that the Weber Progressive will work fine on a Type 4 if is set up properly, and learned the following supports my notion: Correct jetting is critical. Intake air preheat is important, even more so if you live in freezing climates (I do not). A SVDA distributor is important. Don't use the 009.

I have subsequently learned more about vacuum signatures and marrying up of carburetors to specific distributors. Ultimately, the Weber vacuum signature remains questionable to the stock SVDA distributors, and using the 009 with or without electronic ignition may still give timing issues along with hesitation. So I will eventually remove mine and go to dual carbs as VW intended.

:?: Have you visited the Weber Progressive Doesn't suck thread?

Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:27 am

FDtoWesty wrote: Anyone in Corona, CA can help this pathetic soul with his Bus?

Let's start over. First, I can see from your old threads that you've had this bus project for a couple years now. It looks like you've installed a rebuilt 2L type 4 engine and now want to add carburetion. I think you got the progressive cheap and are trying to make that work. Please let me know if I'm wrong here.

The progressive is tough to make work because the intake runners freeze up and the fuel vapor being sucked into the combustion chambers falls out of suspension which causes rough running. I know this for a fact because I had this same engine mounted on my run stand last year. It would run well for the first few minutes then like crap once the freeze started. The solution was to route warm air into the air filter. After that it ran great. The problem is doing that in your bus. I'm pretty sure Wildthings has done it but it's not pretty.

I don't know what your overall plans are for this bus or what your budget is but for best results I suggest buying a set of Weber 40 IDF's from Aircooled.net.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/CB-Performance-Dual-I...rb-kit.htm

Select type 4 and optimize, clean, rejet option. This comes with CB Performance linkage which is way better than the Redline linkage others sell. It will arrive and pretty much be a bolt on and run deal.

Here it is installed on a 2L I did a few months ago

The jetting was prefect and I know this because we hooked up my air/fuel meter and checked

Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:31 am

aeromech wrote: Just to be clear Tim, the pics show the way this bus came to me. I would never do that crappy of a job as shown in the pics.
Glad you cleared that up for the members. I never thought for a second, you would do that.
:lol:
Tcash

Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:34 am

If you still need someone in your area to talk to there's BrionP in Temecula but his bus is all stock and has a T1 engine.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=179692

I've bought longblocks from these guys before in Menifee

http://www.gemvw.com/

Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:38 am

Wasted,
Glad you got yours to work well. I don't see the booster vacuum hose. Did I miss it?

Fri Aug 14, 2015 1:02 pm

aeromech wrote: Wasted,
Glad you got yours to work well. I don't see the booster vacuum hose. Did I miss it?

Vacuum booster line ported to front base of carb. Out of view in pics. Also, I would like to say that jetting information was given to me by Redline Tech line. I did exactly as they said. Another extremely useful source is the Haynes Weber Progressive manual.

The real tragedy is that at the time I did the transmission rebuild and engine refresh, I was completely ignorant about valve creep and on how to check it. I have subsequently discovered terrifying creep in No. 2 intake, so I just drive the bus around the block a couple of times a month just to keep everything from rotting. Haven't done shit about it because I have let myself get completely distracted by other ultra-cool VW products! :P

Fri Aug 14, 2015 1:26 pm

Here's a pic of #3 intake on a 1979 bus I was involved with once.

How's the compression?

Fri Aug 14, 2015 2:16 pm

PM sent to Aeromech...

Fri Aug 14, 2015 2:24 pm

aeromech wrote: Here's a pic of #3 intake on a 1979 bus I was involved with once.
Ok that made the Valve Train Failures thread.
Thank You
Tcash

Fri Aug 14, 2015 3:00 pm

There must be half a dozen or more ways the throttle can be hooked up to one of these carbs. Pictures of what you linkage looks like would help in determining how best to hook yours up.

Fri Aug 14, 2015 3:10 pm

aeromech, Yes, I had purchase this Bus a long time ago for very good deal. I wanted the to project to be a father and sons project, as the all too familiar problem.....time! With busy work schedule, kids school, soccer, karate, and overall frenzy of life. When I got the Bus, our boys were 6 and 4, now they are 13 and 11, hopefully get out camping before they are in college.
This project has been on the back burner.
I would like to get this Bus running under its own power, because we are getting ready to do a big backyard project and this Bus has been sitting on an unpaved RV parking.
Anyhow, I got the Bus running, but it dies after about 30 seconds, if I give it some throttle, it wants to die, but not at about 25% throttle. It'll rev at that point. I have no idea what the timing is because I can't get it to idle to do timing.
Yes, some type duel carbs are in the future, but after the patio gets done.

img[/img]
[img[/img]
[img[/img]

Fri Aug 14, 2015 3:13 pm

The vacuum booster is capped off because my booster hose under the Bus is all dry rotted.
My Bus is a '73 if that helps with routing the throttle cable.

Fri Aug 14, 2015 3:41 pm

You can buy that hose at Carquest

Gates 27231 power brake vacuum hose 15/32" ID

Sat Aug 15, 2015 3:05 pm

You need to move your throttle cable over to the the right side of the centerline of the engine. It needs to be routed through one of the holes in the subframe forward of the front tin, which you can just see the subframe in your top photo. Aeromech mentions not drilling the hole in the front tin big enough for the cable sheath to go through, but I have always run mine with the sheath run fully through the tin and never experienced any problems with having done so. YMMV

In your bottom picture the "eye" the cable connects to is on the bottom of the primary throttle shaft and somehow you need to make the connection ABOVE the shaft. Here is a picture of a junk yard carb with the kind of linkage I run using a barrel nut to make the connection.

In order to get the throttle cable to be the correct length, I just made a loop in the cable and hold the loop in place with a tiny cable clamp. This is hidden above the pan in the front of the vehicle just rearward of the throttle pedal linkage. Sorry no pics. Mine works fine, in almost three decades of use I have never lost a throttle cable, though it has been replaced preventavely once about 10 years ago.