View original topic: Type 4 Dipstick Tube Modification
Wildthings Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:53 am

I have had continual seepage for the boot on my Type 4 dipstick tube for a while and decided to do something about it. I drilled the original funnel shaped pipe out of the oil filler pipe and installed in its place a piece of steel pipe. I also had to JB Weld a thin piece of tubing over the original tube coming down out of the shroud to get the diameters to match. The pieces don't line up 100% perfect but the dipstick slides in smoothly.

Clatter Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:58 am


=D> =D> =D>

Not only do those drip oil, but they also seem like a great place to suck air, too..

aeromech Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:21 pm

So was it a problem with the rubber boots you tried? I understand that some are better quality than others (Viton?). Did they last a short while and then leak, or right away? I usually install tie wraps on each end.

Looks like a good fix there WT

Wildthings Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:29 pm

The last one I had was supposed to be a viton one and seemed to fit well enough but did leak. I added clamps around the ends which slowed down the leak but didn't stop it.

aeromech Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:04 pm

Nice job. Looking at the way VW designed this it just seems to me that they could have used one tube with a thread end that would slide all the way through the shroud and screw into the oil filler tube.

levi20AE Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:19 pm

Great solution! I just got my motor back and the builder managed to poke a hole in that tube resulting a pretty serious leak. So 3/8" fuel rated hose will work as well... Seems like a better solution than the thin rubber anyways.

kaiisons Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:11 pm

i've had a viton one from air head parts on mine for over 4 years without a single drop.

you should have just got one of these.

Lil Lulu Fri Aug 11, 2017 5:05 pm

Just want to confirm that this mod is the nazzz. I'm not equipped to braze so had to weld. Just a little extra pain but doable. You have to place your clamps just right to be able to tighten them. Only the one that's on the case side is accessible to tighten with the HX on but you have to aim the screw just right.

Don't think I'd trust quicksqueeze clamps. Very pleased that I exchanged the shroud studs for bolts.

Went through 3 boots. Trouble is; the boots always crack on the top, where you can't see it.

Thank you wildthings.

asiab3 Sat Aug 12, 2017 3:18 am

kaiisons wrote: i've had a viton one from air head parts on mine for over 4 years without a single drop.

you should have just got one of these.

Rubber fails people in different ways, depending on the life of the part. If Airhead found an extra box in the back room, they would likely sell them. Then if the end user parks their bus in an area with more ozone gas, like near power transformers/lines, the rubber will degrade right in front of your eyes. Add daily driving heat cycles in all temperatures, and splash from a rainy climate, and you will get literally decades of difference out of the same rubber part that someone else needs to replace once a year.

I used to work in an industrial plastic industry where we would see a screwup in coloring dyes take one piece and make it completely brittle to the touch, while other dyed pieces could take a beating with a sledge hammer as designed. They came from the same mold and base stock, and the dyes between the two ends of the spectrum were identical to the human eye. There are multiple compounds in the "viton" family too, so one might work perfectly and the other might shit the bed. Who knows.. 8)


Alan Brase Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:54 am

Been many years since I had a driving bay, but i was also plagued with failing boots and in desperation I once just put in a short length of rubber hose. Musta been FI hose size, what is that? 8mm? It was a battle gettin it over the funnel but I did it and and no clamps either side. It worked for years. Near 0 pressure there, not PSI, but rather inches of water measurement. but no leaks after that. I'm sure it is still on the engine, still sitting in my shop waiting for a CEII or Wild Westerner for its new home. More than 20 years now.

busman78 Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:02 am

Twenty plus years ago fed up with leaky dip stick tubes I did away with the bay style, converted the case to 411/412/914 logical dip stick location. The picture bellow shows a GE case drilled with a dip stick tube installed. Drilling is easy since the tower has the boss for the hole and the indent where the tube lays into. The tube is slightly shorter than what would be on a original Type 4 engine, this made checking the oil easier, you can either lift the hatch or just pull it, dip sticks are flexible enough. At first I had plenty of original T4 sticks, finally had to buy aftermarket early American iron style and chop them down.

This conversion can be done with the engine assembled, really, drain the oil, remove that round cover plate, coat the bit with grease, pack that cavity with a rag, drill the hole, clean out the cuttings, the tube I used is semi tight going in, I used a little JB to permanently set the tube, fit the stick, mark it for full and add, make a cover plate for the old filler tube, have a leak free dip stick day.

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