TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Sep 13, 2015 1:40 pm

Hi Y'all,
Hoping someone can help me before I have to get the car towed to a shop. Here's the story:
Car is a 66 converted to 12v
1600dp
pertronix coil and distributer (new)
Solex 34 pict 3 carb
Car was running great, I do a lot of work on it and keep it maintained. The alternator was a knock off and quit charging the battery so I got a new Bosch alternator and replaced it. While I had the engine out I also changed the manifold boots which were cracked and starting to leak. Put it all back together and it started right up, ran for a minute and died. Since then I can't get it started for more than a minute and that's with the accelerator pedal floored, if I let up it dies. It has revved up a few times but then dies again and the exhaust tailpipe is hot as hell after just that minute or so (aftermarket bugpack muffler, cal look shit).
I've tested the fuel pump and have plenty of gas coming out of the hose from the fuel pump. I've checked all 4 plugs and they are all gapped correctly and have spark (not blue though, more bright orange). I can see fuel shoot into the manifold when I move the accelerator arm. choke is set right. I've tried a couple of carbs but the result is the same, it will crank for ages but mostly nothing catches and when it does it won't stay running. Tried starter fluid, no result.
Coil and distributor are newish. Nothing else was changed when I worked on the car. Well, I did fix the brake lights and replaced the throw out bearing but can't see how that would effect things.
I've pulled all the plugs and checked them, put in different ones, and checked them all to make sure there is spark. Still, aside from the few fire ups that then make the exhaust super duper hot after 45 seconds, I can't get it to run.
Again, it was running great before. Not sure what I did wrong. Send help if you can! Thanks!

Sun Sep 13, 2015 3:17 pm

One thing that comes to mind is whether the plug wires are correct. It can be easy to get them in the wrong order when replacing the distributor. Did you replace the distributor? Or just put the ignition in? If you replaced the distributor, it's possible that it could out of time when it was put back in.
Just some thoughts

Sun Sep 13, 2015 3:39 pm

thanks for that. I did check the plugs several times and they are correct. I should also have mentioned that I reset and double checked the valves and they are all at .006.

Sun Sep 13, 2015 4:02 pm

If you still have the original parts, I might try re-installing them and see if it works after that. It's possible that something could be wrong with the ignition module and it's not working properly.

Sun Sep 13, 2015 4:14 pm

Sounds like you may have a major leak in the induction system downstream from the carb. This could result in a very lean mixture, which is making the exhaust overly hot. Something might've moved, cracked, or otherwise lost its seal when you pulled the motor and is now letting way too much air into the intake system. Did either one of the small rubber plugs on the intake manifold (one just under the carb and one on the left-side manifold casting) come off or get damaged during the motor R&R? Is the carb-to-manifold gasket in good shape? Can you tell if one side of the motor is getting hotter than the other?
Get the engine running best you can and try spraying some flammable liquid (WD40 or carb cleaner) at every connection point along the intake path. The motor will pick right up if fluid is sucked into a leak.

Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:03 pm

thanks! I'll try that if I can ever get it running. The manifold plugs are fine. I did notice a very small fuel leak where the fuel line exits the tunnel and I know I have to replace the main fuel line now. Still, I think I did that today when I was changing the fuel filter and the situation arose yesterday. In any case, the fuel pump is putting out steady jets of fuel so, even though I now have to replace the fuel line, shouldn't the carb be getting enough gas is the bowl fills and fuel is shooting down the manifold? I don't know where else extra air would come from though. Manifold bolts are to spec.

Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:17 pm

Seems suspicious that you said starting fluid didn't help. That tells me it's an ignition problem.

Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:24 pm

I thought so also (that it was ignition problem) but there is spark at dizzy and spark at all 4 plug leads (using test plugs but I put new ones in today also) and all the plugs are gapped right.

Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:39 pm

That fuel leak won't have anything to do with your problem. Sounds like the carb's getting enough fuel if you can see the accelerator pump squirting a jet of fuel down the throat when you move the throttle lever. You also said that you tried a couple of different carbs without any improvement. That pretty much rules out the carb itself, unless both carbs have clogged main jets. Unlikely, but it could happen. Take them out and make sure they're clean. You could always pull the top off the carb and see if there's gas in the float bowl too.
Air can enter the intake system any place two components come together. Between the carb base and manifold, where the manifold meets the end castings, and where the end castings attach to the heads. A crack in the manifold or the castings will also allow air in. Check those manifold boots again...one could've gotten torn somehow when you changed them.

Sun Sep 13, 2015 6:18 pm

Two things come to mind. 1) check firing order,did you remove any plug wires when installing alt? 2) could distributor have been moved? Check timing with inductive timing light while cranking.

Rich

Sun Sep 13, 2015 6:34 pm

I'd get it running without the petronics....you can fiddle with that after you know everything else works .