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Tue Oct 13, 2015 7:57 pm

Picked up this light grey kombi in July. It was stored for 12 years in a garage. It has 3 popouts each side, which I think is a. It unusual for a kombi. Just trying to get it back on the road for now. I spotted it 2 years ago l but the owner wasn't ready to sell. But persistence paid off.

Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:06 pm

Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:14 pm

very nice bus with unusual L345 for 1964. Mcode 114 confirms that the 6 pop outs are factory. Looks like it would have had grey hardboard panels in the back and rear seats.

Has a giant hole been cut in the roof or are my eyes playing tricks on me?

Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:27 pm

Your eyes are just fine :cry: . but it was 2 grand and almost running. The motor was rebuilt just a year or two before it went into storage. Needs the usual rust repair for a northwest bus.

Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:56 pm

This will not be a fast and furious build thread. I have 2 going kids and work full time so I will plug away slowly as time and money allow. Since I bought it I have cleaned the carb and got the bus running and currently am rebuilding the front end and brakes. In the mean time I fixed the front door which would not stay closed.
The tiny spring at bottom left was done so the inside door latch would not return to the latched position. My local parts shop had generic 1/4 x 1.5" springs that worked just fine as a replacement.

Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:08 pm

I also took a few weeks worth of evenings to clean up the front brakes.
Before:

After:

Ok, maybe the befor e and after is of different sides but you get the idea.

I don't have a sandblaster or good compressor so I use oven cleaner and a toothbrush, then drill or angle grinder and wire wheel, then treat with Ospho.

Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:18 pm

King and link pins were in horrible shape. They have been sent to Greg (campingbox) on this website for rebuild.

Those are what's left of the needle bearings in the middle!

Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:28 pm

Engine bay is pretty clean!

Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:33 pm

And i paid $400 for this split front seat. Man, prices have changed since I got into vw's in the 1990's. My first splitty was $800 bucks and was nearly rust free. Should have held on to that one!

Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:25 pm

Nice Bus and cheap!

M-code 114 aka 6 popouts is pretty standard for a Bus with delivery code UA.
UA = Los Angeles
It seems most of the CA Buses have this option.

Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:35 pm

Ok, good to know. I guess not too many of them make it up north as we don't see many buses with 6 popouts..especially kombi's. I think it was more common for the Canadian destined buses to be delivered to NS??

Wed Oct 14, 2015 5:11 am

Very nice bus!
I have a January 1964 light grey komby bus too. Serial number is not very far from your. Mine is a canadian export (KV) without 6 popouts (only 2) but with original double spare tire tray and unknowed 388 and 043 M-code.

Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:23 am

It looks like you got a solid bus, congrats.

Sun Oct 18, 2015 8:36 pm

Thanks to Greg aka Campingbox, I got some freshly rebuilt spindles.

Sun Oct 18, 2015 8:52 pm

This is my first time doing anything like this.. I am usually just a basic maintenance kinda guy...other than once I pulled a Vanagon engine. With my last Vw I learned how to weld a bit but I am pretty new at all this. I learned a few things which I will pass on to other new folks doing a king and link pin spindle replacement.

1. Don't be a dummy like me and put the dust caps on before mounting the spindle! You may need to pop them back out. Much easier to do them when mounted on the vehicle.
2. The dust caps have a little cutaway that you have to line up when installing- it is hard to see once you have greased everything.
3. This job takes a while. It's not that hard but it takes time to grease all the parts individually. 32 shims,! Took me about 4 hrs to grease everything and install and adjust them, plus clean and redrill the pinch bolts I had ignored.
4. If the link pins don't line up with the torsion arms you may need to jack up the lower one to align it. Get this ready before you bring that nice clean spindle over and expect to just pop it in! A cold chisel or something similar can be jammed in to open up the torsion arm so the link pin slides in easier.
5. Don't forget about the pinch bolts! Mine were pretty rough and the cotter pins were rusted in. Took a while to clean them and redrill for cotter pins and clean up the threads. I may replace one and they are hard to find. Oh ya don't force them in- turn the link pins to the right position and they should go in fairly easily. They all go in from the bottom but there is one short one on the passenger side top that goes in from above.

All stuff that is pretty basic, but when it's your first time there are a lot of little mistakes to be made!

Mon Oct 19, 2015 9:06 am

Plus you did the shims by the "measure and shim-chart" method, right?

Mon Oct 19, 2015 6:02 pm

Yes, thanks for checking. My intent with the last post was to add a few bits of info that were not in the manuals I used. I took lots of pics on disassembly that showed the order of all the parts, but missed a few details.

Mon Oct 19, 2015 7:00 pm

Thanks for these info, Much appreciated. I have to do mines. This will help.

Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:33 pm

And line up those dust caps properly! There is a notch in them that lines up with a bump in the torsion arm. Yes this should have been obvious but....

Thu Oct 22, 2015 7:35 am

junichi wrote: And line up those dust caps properly! There is a notch in them that lines up with a bump in the torsion arm. Yes this should have been obvious but....

Yes, good tips.

Before I offer them up, I mark the inside of these stepped washers with a sharpie indicating where the notch is.

I don't feel the chisel/screwdriver is necessary to open up the trailing arms but your results may vary.