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Sun Nov 01, 2015 2:00 pm

Hello,
I am getting ready to drop the valve body to properly reseat the second gear brake band. I have two questions.
1. I can see two different types of bolts- Phillips and hex (8mm ?). Do I only undo the 8mm bolts?
2. Is there anything else I need to do or anything else that needs to come off?

Thanks!

Mon Nov 02, 2015 6:36 am

You need to remove the 10mm head bolts..and the ATF filter cover too. There is a 10mm head bolt under the cover.

With the exception of the ATF filter cover..you do not need to remove the phillips head screws. They hold the valve body together.

There is an accumulator with a spring that sits on top of the valve body..the spring will drop out..don't loose it.

There is a "L" shaft that attaches to the shift linkage. You can see it at the top of the valve body in the picture. It slides out and can be slipped off the linkage.

A link to a Samba write up that may be helpful.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6503112

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Mon Nov 02, 2015 4:34 pm

So, I can attach the "L shaft" just the way it came off?
Also, do I just need to put the accumulator and spring back into place and then bolt the valve body back into place?
Thanks!

Mon Nov 02, 2015 6:01 pm

taylora wrote: So, I can attach the "L shaft" just the way it came off?
Also, do I just need to put the accumulator and spring back into place and then bolt the valve body back into place?
Thanks!

The "L" shaft slides into the linkage as you are reinstalling the valve body.

The accumulator will probably stay in place up in the automatic case, they usually do. Just watch for it.

The spring sits on the valve body and is loose. You have to put it in place and then raise the valve body up and reinstall the holding bolts.

There is a torque spec for those bolts, as I recall. Try and use a torque wrench and spec..it avoids distorting the valve body.

Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:33 pm

Thanks! I dropped it today and it seems pretty straight forward! I can see why a welders vice clamp is necessary to reinstall the brake band. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again!

Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:42 pm

You really don't need a big "C" clamp to install the brake band.

If you are removing the second gear brake band piston and cover..yes..you will need some help with that.

Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:49 pm

I removed the "2nd gear brake band assembly". So I think I will need the c-clamp to reassemble! Thanks!

Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:59 am

I got everything back together and it seem to go smoothly. I put 2+ quarts of tranny fluid back in and and started it up. I only moved it a few feet in drive and reverse but it revved pretty high before it moved in drive or reverse. It sounded and moved like a truck in 4WD low. The engine didn't seem to drop down in RPMs when I moved between gears. Is it possible that the trans fluid has not circulated around the transmission enough? If so, should I just shift it between drive and reverse a bunch of times? The transmission sat for a while without the valve body in it or it leaked a lot of fluid. Or did I mess something up with the brake band piston or valve body? Any feedback would be helpful, thanks.

Sat Nov 14, 2015 11:23 am

Check your ATF level..two quarts sounds like not enough.

Leave the engine running..in Park..handbrake on..on a level surface..let the radiator fans come on to insure the transmission is warmed up (if you still have the stock ATF/coolant heat exchanger on the back of the automatic)

The ATF level should be between the two marks on the dip-stick.

Add the ATF slowly if it is low. 1/4 quart and give it minute and then re-check the ATF level.

Do not over-fill or under-fill..our old slush-boxes will not work well with the ATF level incorrect.