Aircooled Pilot |
Thu Dec 03, 2015 11:36 pm |
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So years ago when I tore my SC apart I effed up my threads on the steering wheel shaft and now I'm trying to determine how to fix them. I looked all over but haven't seen anyone post on a solution so thought I would ask as I can't believe on the only dum-ass that dorked them up. There is some meat there but believe I need to build it up more. I know they are 16x1.5 and have to order a die for this. It's keyed so wondering if JB weld would work as that is supposed to be tapp-able or should I weld some metal in and re-tap it or ????
I have another shaft and could cut and reweld but what a PITA. Thanks |
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novetti |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 12:23 am |
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Well if you ask anyone the words ''Weld or JB weld'' and steering shaft don't belong in the same sentence.
What if the ''fix'' seems to work until it gives up in a crucial moment you can't loose the control of the steering?
Maybe (and maybe only), removing the whole shaft from the steering, getting it to someone to weld a nice penetrating bead and then machine the diameter, cut the thread and the key channel.
I would get it xray, penetration die and US tested before calling it good to use.
It is a pain? and expensive? of course, but I wouldn't skimp on it but all above is just my opinion. Is definitely cheaper to source a new box or a donor shaft.
Think well before you decide to fix what you currently have. |
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quartermilecamel |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 12:40 am |
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Really? jb weld???? lol yes jb weld is tappable........for a model car, or a plastic stud that busted off the back of a plastic piece that a screw threaded into. Do you really want to find out if you did a good enough job fixing the steering wheel to trust it. My thoughts: will this wheel come off in my hands, while Im touring the apls, as I look over the gorgeous cliffside............Get yourself another steering gear, thats the fix......or.......possably call wolfgang or another professional rebuilder and see if they can fix you up. But, ......if your asking if jb weld will fix the threads, please dont attempt to fix this your self. I weld, own a welder, and I wouldnt attempt this. If your dam good at welding...good luck......you must have balls bigger than a 40 horse. |
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j.pickens |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 2:32 am |
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How goobered up are the threads?
Is it just the starting thread or two at the top, or are more threads affected?
I'd go for a die if there's still some meat on the threads, costs 30 bucks on amazon.
If they're totally stripped top to bottom, time for a replacement.
Edit: Hey, they're on sale! http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Hanson-6955-16mm-1-5-H...by+1.5+die |
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williamM |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 4:58 am |
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Same thing here but the PO had a fix- luckily it had good fresh metal below and a die over the shaft helped get it going.
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campingbox |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 6:34 am |
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Threading welded metal is very hard. I think you will be further ahead finding a new steering box. |
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BarryL |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 10:43 am |
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splitnrag wrote: ..I effed up my threads on the steering wheel shaft and now I'm trying to determine how to fix them.
Can you post up a good photo?
The threads hold the nut which puts down-pressure against the wheel but the wheel itself is fit and keyed to the shaft so maybe there's enough meat to come up with an idea.
I used to drive without the nut sometimes. When obnoxious passengers would tell me how to drive my bus I'd just hand them the wheel and say, "Ok, you drive". |
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DubStyle |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:22 am |
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You don't want to build the threads up with a welder and then try to cut threads in the welded material. How bad are the threads? Is it something a tread file and a die can fix?
You could cut the end off, replace by doing a butt weld and using a piece of tubing to slide over both end and weld in place. Just like the guys who shorten their boxes. Simple process if you own a welder, grinder or saw and a piece of angle iron to square the ends up before you start welding them together.
Like it was said, post a pic so we can tell you your best course of action. For those who chastised him for asking about JB weld, it's obvious he doesn't know or he wouldn't be asking. :roll: |
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Z |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 2:07 pm |
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Def post a pic...it's surprising what a thread file and/or die can fix. |
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williamM |
Fri Dec 04, 2015 8:25 pm |
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campingbox wrote: Threading welded metal is very hard. I think you will be further ahead finding a new steering box.
oh yes- fortunately the weld had no penetration and was able to find soft metal under neath and had enough threads to take good torque- but sure must have had funny expression when the horn came loose first time. |
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PEPPE |
Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:32 pm |
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a better repair would be threading the inner hole, then using a suitable bolt. The bolt has to have a hole inside, to run the horn cable. i have seen this work |
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esde |
Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:06 pm |
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I bungled the threads with a brass hammer, and saved it with a die
I shaved the first few threads down so they were barely there, and got the die started on straight. That took a few tries, then it was easy
`
I've also, (on a different car, not VW) split the die in half. The installed it onto the good threads, and wound it off, using it to straighten the bad starter threads. Getting the die indexed on the threads correctly, and into the die handle was a bitch, but it worked like a charm. |
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ozark23 |
Thu Jan 23, 2020 4:25 pm |
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How screwed am I with this column. Just pulled my steering wheel. Nut felt ok, but not so much.
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John Ghia |
Thu Jan 23, 2020 4:43 pm |
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Use a smaller die even if it’s SAE. “My god it won’t be the original nut!” |
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western auto |
Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:12 pm |
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i had one that was severely beaten down with a hammer and the taper was threaded for double nuts and a custom ground down key to hold a 500 steering wheel....... i smoothed down the taper and filled the low areas of thread with marine tex then sanded smooth, that was after i used a cutting torch to heat the smashed factory steering wheel nut area area red hot , i was able to use a file and awl and move the metal like play dough back into a perfect original shape that allowed me to use a threading die to finish it up........ you cant tell i ever fixed it really turned out great, if you had nothing to lose i would heat it up compress it a bit by using a bolt/ washer /hammer to flare it out enough to get a good area(width) to re thread with the die |
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Eric&Barb |
Fri Jan 24, 2020 11:38 am |
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A thread chaser is much better than a thread die that will just cut off the mushed about steel, making for weaker thread. A thread chaser is designed to push the mushed metal back into place resulting in stronger thread.
Failing that one could get a ruined steering column shaft to cut off the good condition upper section. Then chamfer and weld the lower section you have and the upper good donor together. Biggest problem with this would be getting two part aligned just right before welding, but would be easy if one used the steering wheel installed on the shaft and made alignment stop/s for the steering wheel. |
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Major Woody |
Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:50 pm |
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You can also buy a thread file to restore mashed threads. But of course there has to be something left of them to file. |
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Moz'z58 |
Fri Jan 24, 2020 11:45 pm |
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Looks like the threads valley's are filled with the stripped nut material so die may chase that. If marginal maybe a handmade lock plate can back up - like axle nut lockplates, and bond with thread locker on clean metal.
Amazing how mugled up these cars got back in the days when they were so cheap.
Also much respect to eric&barb but welding a steering shaft is a very high liability proposition - I'd advise against that for long term potentialities - better to solve it with good parts and practices IMO |
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Clara |
Sat Jan 25, 2020 10:50 am |
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I would replace that.
ozark23 wrote: How screwed am I with this column. Just pulled my steering wheel. Nut felt ok, but not so much.
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Eric&Barb |
Sat Jan 25, 2020 11:13 am |
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Moz'z58 wrote:
Also much respect to eric&barb but welding a steering shaft is a very high liability proposition - I'd advise against that for long term potentialities - better to solve it with good parts and practices IMO
Could always do the cut/weld splice and cover that with pipe piece like done for steering lock.
From Clara in the gallery:
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