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TinCanFab Fri Jun 30, 2017 6:26 am

I know it's super dry when it's warm where I live, but I did forget to mention what I did for filtered air. Here's my setup I used:

- water trap filter like you just bought right after the compressor
- 25 ft+ of galvanized 1/2" NPT steel pipe running from water trap to the rafters, then over to the other side of my shop, runs down a wall stud to a large ball valve for a drain. The long run of pipe has a slight angle down as it crosses above your head to collect water and pool it to the ball valve. The pipes cool the hot air and push the moisture to condense back to droplets. I picked this tip up from a paint book I have
- a short jumper hose at a tee, in such a way that it comes off the side of my pipe near the end. Water falls to the ball valve drain, dry air taken off the side where water cant drizzle into. This short hose goes to one of these:;veh=sem

- air hose from this large filter goes straight to my gun
- I sprayed in the same way as NZ. No fans, just my large roll up door open. It's so dusty where I sprayed, that it was better with no fan. You might set up fan and filtered air for better results?

I have never had one single moisture related defect, and I've painted things year round. Also, I bought brand new hoses that had never had an oily air tool installed. This is what has worked great for me. Never had a fisheye either.

I can take pics if you need

TinCanFab Fri Jun 30, 2017 6:40 am

Oh yeah, about your Jeep single stage metallic. Don't feel bad, pros will flat out refuse to spray metallic single stage. It's very unforgiving! The nature of that beast. With metallics, you need base coat- lay down wet passes with normal overlap. On your last coat, turn the air pressure way up and dust all your panels in "X" patterns. Coverage is not important- you need the metallics to stand up like tiny pieces of lint to hide all those stripes. Since it's only base coat, you don't have to worry about orange peel or other issues like single stage. :wink:

There is no substitute for spraying metallics. Base coat gives total control. When you mix metallic paint at the store, you actually add a component called metallic control agent.

EMPIImp69 Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:56 am

Thanks Roach, this is all good info I'll need when I'm ready. Besides some spot filling and sanding, haven't done too much. Cleaned up the jack and painted.

EMPIImp69 Mon Jul 24, 2017 7:53 am

Almost forgot about the hood release tube. Welded that back in.

EMPIImp69 Mon Jul 24, 2017 8:20 am

Also tried getting the E-brake out to paint it, even after soaking a few times, pin was frozen in. Had to drill it out, pita.

Had a better E-brake to use. Had to swap the teeth piece from the og one b/c these were worn out.

Started to strip the paint

Also had to fill a rust hole under the hood cowl.

EMPIImp69 Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:00 am

Painted the shifter again, this time silver beige.

E-brake fully stripped, primed and painted

EMPIImp69 Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:46 pm

Haven't done much on the bug but got the seat frames back from the powdercoater. They matched them pretty close to the silver beige. Did the rear seat base in matte black b/c you don't see it.

widefivebug Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:59 am

Nice job, looking good!

EMPIImp69 Sun Oct 29, 2017 5:45 pm

Getting back at it again. Pulled the body off again, made new dolly.

Going to de-scale the bottom sides of the bug, fix a crack in the front and hit it with undercoat.

Let the T handle and horn bracket soak for a couple months, came out clean.

Dake Sun Oct 29, 2017 8:05 pm

The T handle did you soak it in the Zep cleaner?

EMPIImp69 Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:11 am

Dake wrote: The T handle did you soak it in the Zep cleaner?

Yea I use the Zep Industrial Purple straight, stuff is pretty strong.

EMPIImp69 Thu Nov 30, 2017 6:51 pm

So I think one of you guys pointed out that the door handles I originally had were for 65-66 and couldn't use them, so I bought new matching handles, T handle and ignition switch keyed alike.

EMPIImp69 Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:21 pm

I got these billet horn grill lights. Going to try to make them dual filament with a different plug and 7443 bulbs.

EMPIImp69 Wed Jan 31, 2018 6:46 pm

Cleaned up the hood release cable, had brown overspray all over it. Goof off stuff works pretty good.

Also switched up the hex bar linkage to Redline one b/c it fit the carb bases better so they are no longer bent towards the aircleaners.

I had this issue of the alt pulley mis-aligned with the crank pulley which I read is common.

So I used these shims for the crank pulley to bring it out to match up with the alt pulley

Better now:

Also got around to putting the throttle tube wheel in:

63Ragtop NZ Wed Jan 31, 2018 7:34 pm

Yep, had the same problem with the pulley, did you make the shims?

looking good!

EMPIImp69 Wed Jan 31, 2018 7:47 pm

63Ragtop NZ wrote: Yep, had the same problem with the pulley, did you make the shims?

looking good!

Thanks man, I'm trying to get mine like yours and driving it already.. but I'm a long ways away :oops: No I got the shims off another member on here but I think CB makes them. They make a longer crank bolt too to accomodate for the space you are moving the pulley out, but Idk if I really need it since I was able to tighten the stock one down pretty good.

EMPIImp69 Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:35 pm

Put the throwout bearing in, and got the engine in, easy with no body on.

Also got the pan gasket glued down, hole punch works well.

EMPIImp69 Thu Aug 08, 2019 6:54 am

Going to get back working on the rag again soon. Made a hose reel :roll:

MP 64 Thu Aug 08, 2019 5:44 pm

Great thread, and looking forward to more.

TinCanFab Sat Aug 10, 2019 9:06 am

Hey I've got a bent early Bus wheel I was going to do the same thing for air hose. Progress to your tools and working space are just as just as the progress to your car. :wink:

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