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Fri Jan 22, 2016 12:12 pm

Wish I had pictures, but I'm at work and do not.

Cali is making up for lost time and my windshield seems to have sprung a leak. Though, there is no obvious point of entry. Both lower left and right corners seem to be permeating water. The left is particularly bad. Where the seal touches the dash screws seems to be permeating water as well. = Wet floor and hazard of water running past fuse block...

I've set up an appointment to potentially have the seal replaced. Caveat is that there are some rust spots along the seam that I abated using POR15 + topcoat. Will the shop be able to put a fresh seal over the little rust bubbles? Will they be able to address the rust before proceeding? I'm a bit concerned about the cost and want to get an idea of how this sort of repair is approached.

Cheers

Fri Jan 22, 2016 12:24 pm

I have the same problem and I haven't yet figured out where the water enters. I have cleaned the seal area well and used a flowable silicone in the corners, along the whole bottom, and part way up the sides. I got distracted by more pressing projects but plan to go back to that and fix it before the next rainy season. Thankfully I don't live in a rainy area.

Make sure you lift the carpet, the padding (which soaks and keeps the water in), and dry the area under it, check for rust there. Water that gets under there will be trapped and sit a long time without evaporating, even in the summer heat out here.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 12:32 pm

Here in Oregon where it rains everyday, this has always been my soloution in every rig.

New gasket, schedule remove replace at glass shop( always make sure they have a windshield in stock just in case) have them Urathane the glass onto the weatherstrip then Urathane it into the opening.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 12:37 pm

I had the same problem last year, even after replacing the seal and dealing with some rust. I ended up putting some sealant all the way around the windshield and I haven't had a leak since. I can't remember the exact product, I think it was made by permatex and it had a small enough dispenser that I could cram the tip between the seal and the body to dispense. I'm sure it will be a pain to deal with when I eventually pull the windshield for paint, but stopping the leaking was crucial.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 1:13 pm

Guybrush wrote: I have the same problem and I haven't yet figured out where the water enters. I have cleaned the seal area well and used a flowable silicone in the corners, along the whole bottom, and part way up the sides.

Well, it isn't running UP and in between the body and the seal. It will start at the top, then run down the sides, and then wick along horizontally at the bottom and enter. So you need to seal all the way around, or at least the top and the sides.

Now, if you see water running over the lower part of the rubber seal, then you need to seal between the glass and seal.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 1:14 pm

This is also what i did on my last Bay window. I had no rust at all yet it never did seal perfectly. I used the Mopar RTV silicone, black..

Fri Jan 22, 2016 1:49 pm

zak99B5 wrote: Guybrush wrote: I have the same problem and I haven't yet figured out where the water enters. I have cleaned the seal area well and used a flowable silicone in the corners, along the whole bottom, and part way up the sides.

Well, it isn't running UP and in between the body and the seal. It will start at the top, then run down the sides, and then wick along horizontally at the bottom and enter. So you need to seal all the way around, or at least the top and the sides.

Now, if you see water running over the lower part of the rubber seal, then you need to seal between the glass and seal.

Which is the case for me. The problem appears to be water pooling near the bottom corner, not the top.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:06 pm

Don't forget to check the seal around the antenna.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:15 pm

metropoj wrote: I used ...silicone..

be sure you never take the vehicle to a painter, as they will likely try to kill you

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:18 pm

Fun and games...I'm also in the PNWet.

Have a backup plan for when you pull the windshield and find rust:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...ht=vanagon

I pulled my windshield, did my rust work and then had a mobile installer come put the glass in to get their "No Leak" guarantee. Promptly went back to their shop after it failed the garden hose test to have them pump in the glazing compound (or whatever it is) between the seal and the body. Seems to be staying dry. For now.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:23 pm

Silicone, RTV ....... Shudder!

Just making long term problems for a quick fix those products are.......

Any leaking rubber sealed glass demands Bedding sealant, anything else is going to be a long term problem. Paint adhesion, excessive rigidity, etc....

http://3mcollision.com/3m-auto-bedding-and-glazing-compound-08509-1.html

Dave

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:27 pm

Cool, good info keev.

My seal definitely has a bit of a gap in the tophand corners. Likely where the water is entering and then permeating out the base, as zak99B5 pointed out.

Question is, can I get away with squirting some bedding sealant into all of the gaps, or should I have the seal replaced for a freshy+bedding sealant (dry van being the primary concern, cost secondary, though nearly equally important)?

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:37 pm

Never use Silicone!

Its interesting to see all the comments of " where its leaking". Remeber its water and its entry point is rarely where you see it comming out from. I currently operate and insure 9 vehicles from 1946 to to 2008 and over 50 vehicles in the last 20 years and they have all had a leak somewhere. Im no rocket scientist hut I am an expert at locating and stopping water intrusion on automobiles. The urathane trick with a new gasket works everytime.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:46 pm

newfisher wrote: Never use Silicone!

Its interesting to see all the comments of " where its leaking". Remeber its water and its entry point is rarely where you see it comming out from.

People have a brain my friend. Some of us are able to look into and track a leak to see where it's most likely coming from. Geese.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:49 pm

You might try reaching out to samba member 16CV's. I believe he is in your area and installs windshields.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:56 pm

I installed my new windshield seal dry, but did take the time to treat the surface rust on the sheetmetal and the pinch weld seam. Additionally, I applied some Seal-All to the seam, 'cause I found that rust had formed in there and had widened the gap. I strongly suspect that the seam was the source of ingress for my previous water leaks. It hasn't leaked a drop in the two years since I re-sealed the window.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:03 pm

Guybrush wrote: I have ... used a flowable silicone in the corners, along the whole bottom, and part way up the sides. .

not a good intro to be followed up by telling someone to have a brain

if you are lucky, your painter will die of lung or kidney disease before he can hunt you down and kill you for using silicone

Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:05 pm

Merian wrote: Guybrush wrote: I have ... used a flowable silicone in the corners, along the whole bottom, and part way up the sides. .

not a good intro to be followed up by telling someone to have a brain

if you are lucky, your painter will die of lung or kidney disease before he can hunt you down and kill you for using silicone

My painter will be me. And removing a bit of flowable silicone is as easy as just pulling on it or rubbing it with mineral spirit.

And learn to read. I did not tell anyone to "have a brain".

I think that most of the time we can do without your "helpful" participation.

Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:21 pm

Guybrush wrote: Thankfully I don't live in a rainy area..

I suppose taking water leak advise from someone living in Oregon wouldnt be your best idea. :roll:

Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:25 pm

Guybrush wrote: removing a bit of flowable silicone is as easy as just pulling on it or rubbing it with mineral spirit.

nope

and it is becoming more clear that you do need some help