TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:39 pm

Got my first VW need help. This is how I got it. Looked all over for diagrams but the closest I got was for fuel injected,but mine is dual carbs.It looks like two fuel lines coming in one on each side and one with pressure regulator.need help with how to run the lines.

Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:03 pm

Revdimara wrote: Got my first VW need help. This is how I got it. Looked all over for diagrams but the closest I got was for fuel injected,but mine is dual carbs.It looks like two fuel lines coming in one on each side and one with pressure regulator.need help with how to run the lines.[img]

[/img]

Welcome. Looks like the PO (Previous Owner) started a FI to carbs conversion, then stopped. So, what you have is an unfinished job. First, the line with the red circle is a fuel feed line, but will need a reducing fitting, as it's currently 5/16ths (or 8mm), while the carbs are 1/4 inch inlet fittings. This means you'll need a couple of feet of 1/4 inch hose, a "T" fitting, and some clamps. In a pinch, you could redo the feed hose from the pan (probably a good idea too), then add in a plastic VW air cooled fuel filter (as it has reducing fittings built into it), then run 1/4 inch hose up to the "T" fitting. However, you're going to have to make choice: mechanical or electric fuel pump. If you go electric (your old one is probably still attached to the front beam and is too high of pressure to run the carbs on), and swap it with a Mr.Gasket brand 42S that's available at the Zone, O'Reilly's, NAPA, Advanced, Carquest, and other good auto parts places. If you choose to go mechanical, then you'll need to take the original FI pump completely out of the system, and hose directly from the tank to the pan up front, then you'll need the bakelite fuel pump base, generator style fuel pump push rod and pump. Now that re-sized hose I mentioned above, from the fuel filter it'll go to the input side of the fuel pump, with another hose going to the "T" to the carbs.
Ok, now on the 2nd red circle, the the FPR for the FI, That device and the hose out of it behind the tin wall can be removed (just chop the hose off about 5 inches from the pan edge and plug it, Up front where it comes out, do the same thing there, as someday you might need that line, and by plugging it, you keep it clear and available for future use. If you have the fuel tank drained, then go ahead and do something similar to the return fitting on the fuel tank.
You'll also want to add a "balance tube"of 5/16ths hose between both manifolds, to help the engine run smoother.
The electric AAR (round device next to the distributor on the right) can be removed, and it's red wire disconnected, as it's part of the FI system.
You might want to look around the engine bay for other FI bits that can be removed at this time.

I hope this helps.

Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:19 pm

Oh, I should mention that there's probably more than what I mentioned above to do, but that should get you closer. Use the distributor you currently have as well, but add a piece of 3/32nds hose to the left carb from the vac can on the distributor, rather than trying to swap to an 009 (the 1 you have has a better advance curve).

Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:24 am

Here is a photo from my gallery showing the original factory carb set up on my motor. The main fuel line is not visible because I removed it to change to new lines, but you can see the balance tube Bob mentions and the stock style mechanical fuel pump.

Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:00 am

This will give you the basics. This is how my engine looked when attempting to get it out of storage, so the lines are not routed properly, and the gas is coming from an IV bottle, but it shows everything needed for fuel line.

The green line is the supply, here, an IV. This line would come from the tank, over the trans, and enter the engine room, lower driver side, and into the fuel pump.
The yellow line is from pump to "T" fitting.
The red line is on each side of the T, one to each carb.

That's all you need (fuel wise) to get it going.

Mon Mar 21, 2016 4:02 pm

Thanks for all the info and pics that helps a bunch I was racking my brain for a day truing to figure it out,you guys have been very helpful. Back to the drawing board I go.

Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:26 pm

You have to put a tee in your vacuum line & run vacuum to your automatic transmission too to get it to shift properly. The hole in the firewall for the vacuum line to the automatic transmission is near the fuel pressure regulator, but separate from the fuel return line to the gas tank.

Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:45 pm

you will need a sync tool to get your carbs correctly .Bobnotch advises setting the left one first then adjust right to it. worked for me.

Thu Mar 24, 2016 3:58 am

Rex lucy wrote: you will need a sync tool to get your carbs correctly .Bobnotch advises setting the left one first then adjust right to it. worked for me.

That's how VW suggests to do it too. It's been working for me for over 20 years doing it like that.
That's like some people like the snail type of synch tool, while others like the unisyn tool.