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Sun Apr 24, 2016 7:51 am

It's been a while since I've taken my 1974 Super Beetle to a mechanic for some basic maintenance and I've decided that this time around I wanted to learn how to work on it myself so that I can learn and keep it running without needing to depend on a local aircooled VW mechanic.

I've changed the oil and was hoping to adjust the valves, and after thoroughly researching how, I can't make it to the first step: rotating the motor until the distributor points to 1st cylinder. When I go to rotate the alternator I'm either tightening it when I rotate to the right, or loosening it when I go to the left, as opposed to rotating it all around to get it in the right position as I'm seeing done on tutorial videos. Am I rotating it from the wrong position? Should I remove the spark plugs to rotate it?

Apologies if these questions are so ignorant they make you cringe, I just really want to learn and have little hands-on experience.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 7:58 am

Ensure that you're in neutral and never turn the motor by hand with the keys in the ignition.

I don't like turning the motor by the belt, I use a wrench on the pulley nut.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:06 am

Nothing wrong with turning the motor over with the belt.
Make sure it is in neutral, if it is and it still won't turn something is wrong.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:12 am

I ensured the car is in neutral, tried to move it by rocking the belt, and it won't budge. And twisting the nut only tightens or loosens it, it doesn't rotate the motor very much. I'm not sure what it is I'm doing wrong.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:41 am

If the car runs then there shouldn't be a problem. Keep trying at the large pulley nut, it will rotate before over-tightening.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:43 am

You are more than likely fighting the compression stroke of one of the cylinders. Yes you can remove the spark plugs to make it easier to rotate the engine to TDC. Engine rotation is clockwise. When you think that you have #1 cylinder TDC. Grab the rockers and give then a wiggle. Both should be a little loose. But not a lot. Take your time and if you get stuck. Come back and ask for more information.
Safety first, make sure that you do not have the key in the ignition. You don't want to hand start your engine while trying to rotate it. :shock: It happens.
Good Luck.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:45 am

Use a large socket and breaker and turn the crankshaft pulley nut (the lower one). You may need to bench-grind a socket shorter to get clearance for this.

I intentionally run my generator belt a little loose to protect the generator bearings (my fan does not slip, I do not have cooling or charging issues); so if I turn the engine with wrench on the generator nut, I need to use my other hand to press on the belt while I do this, to get it to grab.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:04 am

Brian: I'm pretty worried about stripping the nut or something. I'll try it again and keep going and see what happens.

67rustavenger: I'll give removing the spark plugs a try. I'll just need to get a ratchet with an adjustable joint to get in that awkward spot. Spark plugs are 13/16, right? Also, I was watching a video called BugMeVideo and the man in the video said that clockwise is 1, 4, 3, 2 so if you went counter clockwise it'd be 1, 2, 3, 4 and proceeded to spin the motor using the top one and sometimes he would just pull the belt to rotate it, neither of which I can do. I'm not sure what it is I'm messing up.

Cusser: I'll definitely give that a try. If the crankshaft pully nut isn't budging should I continue to force it or stop and troubleshoot? I tried turning it earlier when the top one didn't work and it wasn't moving an inch. Car's in neutral, on a level surface, nothing's happening. I'm at a loss.

Thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:20 am

If your VW was running before you attempted all this, I doubt that you did anything to cause a major issue.

If mine, I'd remove the generator belt (just to get that out of the equation) and see if the engine can be turned with the big wrench; take out the spark plugs to reduce engine resistance if you like.

Don't be embarrassed to ask someone to push down the clutch pedal while you try this either, or to jack the rear tires off the ground.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:23 am

You could turn the motor by the belt without the plugs in, but that's some extra work for just doing valves. I mean unless your compression is set at 12:1 and you didn't eat your Wheaties this morning.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:24 am

I think: If the engine for some reason seems stuck and you haven't got the car in gear accidentally then go back to square one and try to start the car as usual. If it starts normally then the engine is not seized up and you should be able to rotate it by hand when stopped (and all safety tips followed).

Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:30 am

I started the engine with no issues, got a breaker bar involved and managed to rotate it from the bottom counterclockwise with a little more force so it rotates now. I'm still confused as to why the two other methods don't work for me, but I'll take it. Finally time to start my first valve adjustment. Thanks for the help, everyone.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:35 am

Yeah! Forget the alt pulley nut. I don't know how hard that thing is. So there might be a chance that you can damage it.
Just get yourself a huge adjustable spanner and put on the crank pulley.
Like many have already said. If it ran before you are attempting the valve adjustment. You should be able to turn it by the crank pulley.
Maybe a second bowl of Wheaties is in order here. Just sayin.
Good Luck

Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:39 am

VW_Corral wrote: Finally time to start my first valve adjustment.

woohoo, nice. Remember clockwise on the crank is 1 4 3 2. Take the cap of the distributor and you'll see a notch for where #1 is. Good luck.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:26 am

Lining up the tip of the rotor with the notch on the edge of the distributor is only half of the procedure: you also have to be sure your tdc mark on your crank pulley is located at the crack of your engine halves (where they join together).

Also, some distributors have been installed 180 degrees off. Mine was. So when I thought my engine was at tdc for number one cylinder, it was actually at number three. This can be avoided by first checking that your number one plug wire is above--or close to--the notch on your distributor. Just lift up the distributor cap and verify the distributor notch is under (or near) your number one plug wire.

My compression goes from 115 to 130. And I can easily turn my alternator nut to turn the engine. Perhaps you have some really high compression.

Have fun. The first valve adjustment takes a while.

Tim

Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:53 am

VW_Corral wrote: I started the engine with no issues, got a breaker bar involved and managed to rotate it from the bottom counterclockwise with a little more force so it rotates now. I'm still confused as to why the two other methods don't work for me, but I'll take it. Finally time to start my first valve adjustment. Thanks for the help, everyone.

Good.

Sun Apr 24, 2016 12:42 pm

Tim Donahoe wrote: Lining up the tip of the rotor with the notch on the edge of the distributor is only half of the procedure: you also have to be sure your tdc mark on your crank pulley is located at the crack of your engine halves (where they join together).

Also, some distributors have been installed 180 degrees off. Mine was. So when I thought my engine was at tdc for number one cylinder, it was actually at number three. This can be avoided by first checking that your number one plug wire is above--or close to--the notch on your distributor. Just lift up the distributor cap and verify the distributor notch is under (or near) your number one plug wire.
X2

Until you verify the notch on the rim of the distributor body actually represents the #1 spark plug position don't assume it is. That notch could represent any of the four cylinders if the distributor drive shaft was installed incorrectly (seems to be a common problem).

Sun Apr 24, 2016 1:26 pm

Probably, because I'm naturally lazy but, fifty some years ago, I was taught to 'center the TDC notch' on the crank pulley with the case split and rotor pointing to number one plug. I adjusted both valves for number one cylinder then, I rotated the crank pulley 'counter clockwise' 180 degrees (VW always put a dab of white paint 180 degrees opposite the TDC notch) and adjusted both valves for number two cylinder. I, then, buttoned up the right side, rotated the crank pulley counter clockwise another 180 degrees (TDC notch aligned with case split) and adjusted both valves for number three cylinder. With another 180 degrees counter clockwise, (to white dot again) I adjusted both valves for number four.............installed left valve cover and DONE!

But, I suppose you all, probably, already knew about this procedure but, if you didn't, maybe I've done some good.

Have a good day and let's put some miles on those bugs! :lol:

mort

Sun Apr 24, 2016 2:34 pm

That's how I do it.

Tim

Mon Apr 25, 2016 3:40 pm

What amazes me although perhaps it shouldn't is the amount of time people worry about where the distributor rotor is pointing. yesterday I adjusted valves and didn't even remove the distributor cap why? I simply aligned the mark on the crank pulley with Crank case split line. At that moment I had a 50/50 chance of being on #1 but when I looked at the valves on number 1 they had no clearance i was on 3 at TDC , so I turned the engine 360 degrees that's a full turn in either direction and checked again, hows that? well firiing order is 1432 so if im on 3 and go a full turn either way i wind up on 1, i cant miss. now I had clearance and proceeded to set intake and exhaust at cylinder #1. From there it was half turn back 2 half turn back 3 half turn back 4. In order for this to make sense you have to understand the specific events of a four stroke engine, that's it . To confirm TDC on any cylinder of any 4 stroke engine keep turning clockwise (except Corvair) certain tank engines, they spin opposite. Turning clockwise the exhaust valve on the affected cylinder will begin to open. This confirms you've passed TDC on the power stroke. Intake,compression,ignition, exhaust. Use the valves to locate number
1 cylinder not the rotor which if the distributor drive is in wrong could be pointing anywhere. Can it be any easier?