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Mon May 02, 2016 4:26 am

My torque converter leaks. Its not the torque converter seal in the tranny bell housing. Nor is it the engine main seal. Its the actual torque converter leaking. Is it possible its over filled?

Mon May 02, 2016 10:42 am

brese73 wrote: My torque converter leaks. Its not the torque converter seal in the tranny bell housing. Nor is it the engine main seal. Its the actual torque converter leaking. Is it possible its over filled?

The automatic section or the torque convertor? You can't really overfill the torque convertor if that is your question. There is a bushing in the torque convertor that supports the convertor while it spins. If that wears, there can be side to side movement so that the seal could not retain the fluid. So you need to look closely at the bushing when you change the seal.

Some here have suggested using two torque convertor seals. I have not personally done that, but was worth noting. The torque convertor can also wear where the seal rides. If you can feel the groove with your finger nail. It is shot. I have saved torque convertors using something called a speedy seal I believe. It is a thin metal sleeve you install on shafts that have been grooved. They work quite well.

edit: if the torque convertor is actually leaking, if you can identify the leak, it could be welded shut, or you need a rebuilt convertor and be done with it.

Mon May 02, 2016 12:06 pm

its definitely leaking out the torque converter. I filled up the torque converter with tranny fluid. then when I hold it up vertically to install it on the transaxle, the fluid spills out. ill try and post a pic later.

Mon May 02, 2016 1:18 pm

What you describe is normal. The torque convertor should fill as soon as you start the engine for the first time. You don't need to fill it to the top on the bench. I would suggest standing on its side over a oil catch and let the fluid you added run out. It will still be half full, which is plenty to then go ahead and install it. It should have 3 definite clicks as you install it into the transmission. You may need to turn it side to side to engage all 3 sets of splines. If you only get two sets, it will jam against the flex plate when you install it and probably damage something. Also make a point of aligning the torque convertor so one of the flex plate bolts will be lined up so you can start it. If you set the torque convertor properly, with the bellhousing bolted up, you should be able to move the torque convertor back and forth independent of the engine. If not, stop and figure out what is wrong.

Mon May 02, 2016 1:39 pm

Im not sure I heard 3 clicks. I definitely heard 2. I spun it slowly while putting pressure on the converter as I mated it to the tranny. I felt that it wasn't going in any further. I did this several times to make sure. then I mated to motor with the flex plate to the converter. the converter does not jam against flex plate which makes me believe the converter is seated properly. it doesn't leak unless I start the motor. its spraying tranny fluid everywhere.

Mon May 02, 2016 5:00 pm

I don't think I can help you further. I am confused. You talk about it leaking when you go to mate it up and then say it is spewing when the engine is running.

You could rig up a pressure tester in the snout of the convertor. Apply compressed air and hold it under water. If you see bubbles you have a leak. I have never seen one develop a hole. I saw once where someone recommended drilling a hole in one to drain it and then plugging the hole with a pop rivet and silicone. Maybe yours was molested. If not, you need to look at the stator support, the torque convertor bushing, and the area the seal rides on. One last thought is the fluid is not able to return to the automatic because a passage is plugged.

Tue May 03, 2016 8:05 am

there is no holes on the converter. it leaks out the snout as I hold it upright when Im about to mate it to the tranny. it does not leak once I have the converter properly seated & mated to the tranny. THEN, when I start the motor, it leaks out the torque converter snout. I recently installed a new torque converter seal (metal ring type from gowesty) I can clearly see that NO tranny fluid is leaking from the torque converter seal on the tranny side.

I think you mentioning the stator support and torque converter bushing is where the problem resides. does that involve cutting open the torque converter?

Tue May 03, 2016 8:14 am

The support is part of the bellhousing. The bushing is pressed into the end of the torque convertor and can be replaced. The stator support is not serviceable, it is the outer splined piece you see just inside the seal. From memory it is part of the casting of the differential bellhousing.

I wonder if there is a problem with the fluid returning from the torque convertor. I am not sure where to tell you to look for a restriction, but fluid does flow in and out of the convertor while the engine is running. If it can't return, it would quickly get pressurized and could force the fluid past the seal.

edit: Quote: it leaks out the snout as I hold it upright when Im about to mate it to the tranny.

This is normal. In answer to your original question, yes the torque convertor is overfilled on the bench if when you flip it on it's side to install it, fluid runs out. There is nothing in the torque convertor to hold the fluid in when it is standing on it's side uninstalled. So in other words, this is not indicative of where the actual leak is. Hope that makes more sense.

Tue May 03, 2016 8:35 am

I've had two old torque converters that developed cracks (that I could never actually visualize) that spewed ATF while the engine was running, but appeared leak-free when the engine was not running.

In both cases I simply replaced the torque converter with a rebuilt unit.

kourt

Tue May 03, 2016 10:04 am

This^

There is only one hole that should be in the torque converter and that is so it can install into the transmission. If the torque converter is not installed properly, you'll never mount the transmission to the engine. If you insist on using bolts/nuts to force the transmission to mate up to the engine, you'll break more parts and have to remove the transmission again.

Tue May 03, 2016 11:28 am

sounds like I have 2 potential jobs ahead of me.

1. replace the torque converter bushing and hope that solves the issue.

2. replace the torque converter with a rebuilt one.

in either case...where can I get both parts? I looked everywhere on line for a torque converter. found nothing.

Tue May 03, 2016 12:19 pm

brese73 wrote: sounds like I have 2 potential jobs ahead of me.

1. replace the torque converter bushing and hope that solves the issue.

2. replace the torque converter with a rebuilt one.

in either case...where can I get both parts? I looked everywhere on line for a torque converter. found nothing.

Assuming you have a 2.1L,

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1564_1500/automatic-torque-converter.html

http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?v=&id=21974

http://www.autozone.com/powertrain/transmission-to...93_0_2946/

Tue May 03, 2016 12:24 pm

Also, Precision of New Hampton (the do some TC rebuilding for GoWesty or Van Cafe):

http://gopnh.com/Automotive-Transmissions.cfm?Transmission=090

Call them up... or just go to Van Cafe or GoWesty.

My TC came from PNH and it's going strong.

kourt

Tue May 03, 2016 12:33 pm

I have the subie 2.5L conversion

Tue May 03, 2016 12:55 pm

where can I find the torque converter bushing? is there a part number?

Tue May 03, 2016 12:56 pm

brese73 wrote: I looked everywhere on line for a torque converter. found nothing.

Why not look local? Check who rebuilds transmissions, ask them who rebuilds their torque converters. That is how I found my local rebuilder. Best advice I got that saves me and my customers a boat load of money.

Tue May 03, 2016 1:13 pm

good point butcher. Its just I have limited time, so its nice to have a part show up at my house. i'll check out the local tranny shops though.

Tue May 03, 2016 2:05 pm

Yes, I get that. IF there is a local rebuilder, they could also make a couple suggestions. Couple of phone call is all it takes.

My local person says if I can get it there by 9am, I can have it back by 3pm the same day. Having that kind of support allows me to fix many torque converter issues faster than most shops. I used to send them out to California and with the shipping expense and waiting, it would normally take a week and a half. Having them fix yours can also tell you if you really did have a problem with the torque converter or the bushing itself. Be careful of another one on-line because some shops do not fix the hub where the seal rides on. Therefore you still have a potential of a leak at the seal.[/b]

Wed May 04, 2016 7:39 am

Here's a photo of the ATF leaking from the TC. I properly seated the TC to transaxle. It leaks pretty bad.

Wed May 04, 2016 8:02 am

I hope you understand that the entire torque converter is filled completely with oil [when running]. When you remove the torque converter, you will loose oil from the opening. The picture does not show the sealing surface. Too much shade.

Is there any reason it's still bolted to the engine? I would not recommend to remove the torque converter with this method. I certainly would never install the converter that way either. The torque converter should be unbolted from the flex plate before you separate the transmission from the engine.