TheSamba.com :: View topic - Front axle beam Grease fittings nipples T2

Tue May 17, 2016 9:30 pm

Well, this isn't going well. This should be really simple but I can't find the grease fittings on the lower torsion tube.

Here's a picture looking at the front of the torsion tubes:

I circled the fitting for the top tube. Does this look right? Where are the grease fittings for the lower torsion tube?

Tue May 17, 2016 9:48 pm

You may need to wipe off dirt and grease to locate them. They also might be broken or missing. Look for the holes in the beam where they should be if that's the case. Then buy some new zert fittings.

Tue May 17, 2016 10:53 pm

Aha! So that IS the correct location! Thanks! Yeah, I think the bottom ones might be missing - it looks like you should be able to see it at the same spot in the lower tube. I'll look again now that I'm sure where to look.

Wed May 18, 2016 7:51 am

22manybugs wrote: Aha! So that IS the correct location! Thanks! Yeah, I think the bottom ones might be missing - it looks like you should be able to see it at the same spot in the lower tube. I'll look again now that I'm sure where to look.

I had the same problem on my '77 the first time I greased her. The bottom ones were inexplicably missing. I found the two holes under some dirt and road grime. Clean off the underside of the beam where the arrows are pointing in the pic, and you'll find them.

I found mine at Ace Hardware - my FLAPS didn't have ones that fit. Size is M8x1.0

(and in a pinch, you could always pull one of the others and temporarily install in the lower beam so you can finish your lube job. Just be sure to actually get the fittings so you can do the job in the future)

Wed May 18, 2016 8:01 am

To link to this post
Code: [url=http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8084409#8084409]Front axle beam Grease nipples N 18 515 1, N 18 516, N 18 511 2[/url]

Front axle grease nipples.

thanks to jerseylooker

http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/EarlyBaywindow/4-003.jpg

#6 N 18 515 1 grease nipple A 6, 6mm - 1.00, Straight, Ind. Ref. # 8601
#7 N 18 511 2 grease nipple C 8, 8mm - 1.00, 90 Degree, Overall Length 18mm, Ball Check, Plated, Ind. Ref. 7940, DIN # 71412
#8 N 18 516 1 grease nipple A 8, 8mm - 1.00, Straight, Overall Length 15mm, Ball Check, Plated, Ind. Ref. 8901, DIN # 71412

links
http://www.autocrafteng.co.uk/shop/fasteners-fixin...ples_1195/

Good day
Tcash

Wed May 18, 2016 8:09 am

zh007 wrote:
I had the same problem on my '77 the first time I greased her. The bottom ones were inexplicably missing.

Explicably, some careless folks are often wont to hit them with jacks and jackstands. ](*,)

Cap your zerks with bleeder valve caps and you'll be set for life.

Robbie

Sun May 22, 2016 12:06 am

Okay, I found the spots for the grease fittings for the bottom tube - or at least the holes for them. One was broken off, and one was completely missing. I can understand a broken one, how does one just disappear?

Where oh where are all the metric Zerk fittings going? I have bought some at VW part stores before, but checked with two stores on Saturday and neither had any new fittings. Went to Interstate Used VW Parts to get a replacement stabilizer/anti-sway beam (more on that below) and they didn't have any grease fittings. Finally found a used bus beam at a local shop, but it only had the upper fittings (the ones with a 90-degree bend), the lower ones were also missing. Must be a national shortage of Zerk fittings! So I got the upper fittings.

I replaced the fittings, now I have 90-degree fittings in all four corners. I can see why the lower ones are always broken - it's a really poor location, right where you tend to put the jack stand and you can't see them from the front side. This is a picture from the back, I will have to be extra careful every time I set the jackstands:

Here's what started the whole search for the grease fittings. I have a lower ball joint with a torn boot and no grease.

No problem, I've replaced those many times on Bugs and Ghias, it's the same thing right? Hoo boy, no, everything is heavier/more load/harder to break free! I've done this in a Ghia without removing the wheel hub or backing plate, but I couldn't do it with the bus (I tried). Here is the best suggestion I have for anyone doing this job:

It's darn near impossible to get the upper torsion arm pulled out while it's sitting on that rubber stop!
The disassembly should be something like this:
1) Jack up front and set on jackstands
2) Remove stabilizer bar
3) Remove wheel hub
4) Remove backing plate
5) Place jack under lower balljoint bolt and jack up until the upper balljoint is lifted off the rubber stop
6) Pull out locking tab from underneath and lift out the rubber stop. (Don't get your fingers between the rubber stop and the torsion arm just in case the jack slips).
7) Lower jack
8 ) Then break free the ball joints.
9) Remove set screws and pull out torsion arms.
The upper torsion arm will still be a pain because it's pressing against the metal bracket that hold the rubber stop, but it's nowhere near as much load as when the rubber stop is installed.

One last thing, I put a jack stand under the stabilizer bar to keep it in place since I was only disconnecting the one side. As soon as I got it loose, the other side (the side I hadn't touched) just fell off. What?? Turns out the bar was completely cracked through on the other side. There was rust in the crack, so it looks like it had been that way for awhile.

The person at the VW store said the same thing happened to him. So that's something to check when under the front end. In my case, it looks like a simple tug on the stabilizer bar would have pulled it free.

Sun May 22, 2016 4:50 am

Odd, my original sway bar broke in the same spot a year ago.

About the Zerk fittings. Ace Hardware where I am has an extensive collection of metric Zerk fittings in their nut and bolt section. I've never not found the one I needed for a VW there.

Sun May 22, 2016 5:21 am

Any decent auto parts would be willing to order in the grease fitting you need.

Larger diameter aftermarket sway bars are available.

Sun May 22, 2016 11:27 am

Sorry to pester, but did you remove your torsion arms just to replace the boot? :shock:

For the readership, it is not necessary to remove the rotor/drum/backing plate/brake line/rubber stops/torsion arms/anything else just to replace boots on a bus…

I hope you were replacing the torsion arms/ball joints, otherwise you did a LOT of beautiful extra work… :P

Robbie

Sun May 22, 2016 1:21 pm

Sometimes however, its best to do that extra work to clean up, inspect and beautify that which you will be putting back on. No sense putting something rusty back on if it can be cleaned, fixed and painted to last longer (if in good shape).

Mon May 23, 2016 11:11 pm

wcfvw69 wrote: About the Zerk fittings. Ace Hardware where I am has an extensive collection of metric Zerk fittings in their nut and bolt section. I've never not found the one I needed for a VW there.

Yeah, I was eventually going to Ace if needed, they usually have the fittings, but I had to go to the VW shops anyways and was hoping to not make an extra stop. It just surprised me that the fittings were not available, either new or used, from VW shops. I used to be able to get them everywhere.

asiab3 wrote: Sorry to pester, but did you remove your torsion arms just to replace the boot?

For the readership, it is not necessary to remove the rotor/drum/backing plate/brake line/rubber stops/torsion arms/anything else just to replace boots on a bus…

I hope you were replacing the torsion arms/ball joints, otherwise you did a LOT of beautiful extra work…

Thank you for mentioning that, I wasn't clear. Yes, I replaced the entire balljoint, the rubber was split wide open and there was NO grease left in the balljoint.

Mon May 23, 2016 11:27 pm

22manybugs wrote:
asiab3 wrote: Sorry to pester, but did you remove your torsion arms just to replace the boot?

For the readership, it is not necessary to remove the rotor/drum/backing plate/brake line/rubber stops/torsion arms/anything else just to replace boots on a bus…

I hope you were replacing the torsion arms/ball joints, otherwise you did a LOT of beautiful extra work…

Thank you for mentioning that, I wasn't clear. Yes, I replaced the entire balljoint, the rubber was split wide open and there was NO grease left in the balljoint.

Thanks for clarifying. Many people read these threads and don't post; it would be a shame if one of them was as lost as I was and then decided to rip their beam off to replace a boot or something… :D

Wed Jul 11, 2018 4:11 pm

Quick question as I couldn't quite see the answer:

What's the best way to get grease back into the ball joints if you're replacing the boots... Just pack it in there?

thanks!

Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:57 am

Madumi wrote: Quick question as I couldn't quite see the answer:

What's the best way to get grease back into the ball joints if you're replacing the boots... Just pack it in there?

thanks!
Carefully drill a hole in the top and install a grease fitting and then fill it with grease.

Thu Jul 12, 2018 8:39 am

If you cant find them local.....Mcmaster Carr carries M6 x 1.0 and M8 x 1.0 grease fittings in straight, 45° and 90° in zinc plated steel, brass and 303 stainless.

I am sure you can find some other hardware bits you need from them....like metric holts and washers.... to make the shipping for a very small box worthwhile.

The 8mm x 1.0 come in packs of 10 in zinc/steel....for $9.48....part # 1105K75
The 6mm x 1.0 come in packs of 10 in zinc/steel....for $3.84....part # 1105K71

The 6mm comes in various lengths. Ray

Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:17 am

Thanks so much for replies & references to where to buy, much appreciated...

OK, drilling a hole in the top of the ball joint... Do you tap afterward for the grease zirk (not sure how much metal there is to go through). Any hints on how deep the hole will go before i'm through?

thanks!

Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:30 am

Have a look through this story, there's nipple drillage described with photos in it somewhere: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=700981

Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:56 am

busdaddy wrote: Have a look through this story, there's nipple drillage described with photos in it somewhere: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=700981

Awesome thread, thanks so much busdaddy... much appreciated

Grease zirk drilling shown on tie-rods:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8792415#8792415

Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:05 pm

Tech Tips

Ball Joint Grease (Zerk) Nipple (Fitting) Install (Pic Heavy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

Note that some Ball joints have a little cavity in the end. So don't push through to hard or you may break your drill bit.

Good luck
Tcash