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  View original topic: Rebuilt AFM installed, problem got slightly better then worse. Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4
jayinduluth Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:15 pm

Tonight when starting the van, it was unable to idle on its own like it was last night. I had to constantly rev it keep running, but I managed to at least get it out the driveway.

We did a vacuum test advance at the distributor and it measure 6psi and stops at 9 or 10.

While checking the timing, and reading through Tencentlife's posts, we made marks for 40 degrees clockwise. At 3000 rpm, it was right on. After that test, we noticed a gas smell from drivers side of engine bay and noticed that one of hoses to the fuel rail is leaking and the clamp is rusty.




So that is the plan for tomorrow to get some fuel line and replace that. What do people recommend for clamps? I don't have the fancy german clamp tool, so it will to be something regular.
Also, fuel line - looks like 7mm or 5/16" will work with the 30R9 rating - is that correct? Is there an alternative in case I can't get that type? There is a VW dealer in Duluth, so I'm hoping as a last resort, they will have what i need.
Thanks.

Tom Powell Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:23 pm

Do all of your fuel lines with the hose and clamp set from GoWesty or VanCafe. You are fortunate that you have not had a fire yet. BTDT




Aloha
tp

jwallis Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:59 pm

First - for anyone: if an injector is flowing low, is it common to get engine knock, since you'd be running super lean, which I think can lead to preignition, right?

----

This may be down the list, but do you know if your injectors are delivering a good amount of fuel? I've never done an injector test but I think it's not too tough.

Do you know for *certain* the age of your fuel lines? It is top 3 in every new van to do list you'll find out there. If you don't know, I recommend just buying the kit (along with oetiker pliers) from GW. Comes with injector seals (which are really cheap bought separate).

You can also just see what's in GW's kit and DIY. I am surprised that people trust the plastic hoses that come off the tank, so I just bought some hose and used it to replace those lines as well, then you don't have to worry about that plastic through-fitting that GW claims breaks off. Whatever I got was just a hair smaller than 7mm, and it was a big pain in the ass to get it on the FPR, so if you do this, find more 7mm or go slightly larger I'd suggest.

Also, did you check the "sleeves" between the plenum and the air intake runners? Just remembered that. I read a thread on here about a guy who had a van running like crap and he finally figured out that was it. It was on the bottom, don't remember how he found it.


jayinduluth Tue Jun 21, 2016 4:54 pm

Back at it again tonight.
I replaced the fuel line to the fuel rail.
I checked the AAR, it tested correct ohms and the freezer test worked.
I put the old original AFM back in and it seems to idle better. Still does not start on its own (I have to give it a little gas to get it started) but its always done that.
A buddy of mine came over and we did the propane vacuum test while van was running and couldn't find anything that made the idle change at all.

While under the van, I heard this noise coming from either the fuel filter or the fuel pump. Buddy confirmed from the pump. PO claims he put new pump in before I bought and he gave me an old one, so this pump supposedly has less than 25k on it. I did put the gowesty filter in last year so that replaced the square pre-pump filter. The pump makes a noise that sounds like bubbling?? Its not loud enough to hear it unless you are under the van and right next to it. So we reversed polarity and ran the pump for two cycles and put wires back correctly and still bubbly noise. Also, took off the gas cap while van was running, noise stayed the same.

The van seems to be idling fine and at some point I just have to get the balls up go drive it, but I'm hesitant cuz I live on a damn hill - but the old AFM has never allowed me not to get up the hill (sorry for double negative).

Any thoughts on anything?
Thanks!

t3 kopf Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:55 pm

There is a procedure in the Bentley for jumping the fuel pump relay and measuring the amount of fuel delivered by the pump in a certain amount of time. That is your next step.

Wildthings Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:48 pm

jayinduluth wrote: Back at it again tonight.
I replaced the fuel line to the fuel rail.
I checked the AAR, it tested correct ohms and the freezer test worked.
I put the old original AFM back in and it seems to idle better. Still does not start on its own (I have to give it a little gas to get it started) but its always done that.
A buddy of mine came over and we did the propane vacuum test while van was running and couldn't find anything that made the idle change at all.

While under the van, I heard this noise coming from either the fuel filter or the fuel pump. Buddy confirmed from the pump. PO claims he put new pump in before I bought and he gave me an old one, so this pump supposedly has less than 25k on it. I did put the gowesty filter in last year so that replaced the square pre-pump filter. The pump makes a noise that sounds like bubbling?? Its not loud enough to hear it unless you are under the van and right next to it. So we reversed polarity and ran the pump for two cycles and put wires back correctly and still bubbly noise. Also, took off the gas cap while van was running, noise stayed the same.

The van seems to be idling fine and at some point I just have to get the balls up go drive it, but I'm hesitant cuz I live on a damn hill - but the old AFM has never allowed me not to get up the hill (sorry for double negative).

Any thoughts on anything?
Thanks!

Don't remember what you have done thus far, but pries the cover off the AFM and then with the engine running at idle, 2500rpm, and 4000 rpm move the wiper a bit in both directions to see what effect that has on how the engine runs. If a smallish movement makes the engine speed up or slow down much then the AFM is likely out of adjustment.

You can also have someone else drive while you lean over the engine from the back seat and move the wiper around a bit. Engine cover off of course. DON'T GET BODY PARTS OR CLOTHING NEAR THE BELTS.



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