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Sat Jul 16, 2016 7:41 pm

If it's no start when hot, I'd blame the electronic ignition.
But I'd also check the valve clearance, even hydraulic lifters have
adjustable rockers. They get checked for proper zero clearance every
once in awhile.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 6:04 am

OK. I was finally able to get a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
At idle it is reading 32psi
with small rev increase the pressure goes up to 34psi

Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:10 pm

There are only 3 things you need to check when it isn't running.

For Spark
For Fuel
For Compression

Whichever one is missing is the culprit you troubleshoot. Checking for them when it is cold and it runs will give you a baseline but it does not tell you what is missing when it fails. I'd get it to die and see which one is missing. You might do a compression test cold to get a baseline. Then when you put the plugs back put a little moly grease on them or anti-seize and just tighten them moderately but not all the way. They will be easier to take out when the engine is warm and it dies. If compression drops when it is hot then it is your valves that need adjusting. It could be a bad ignition switch, coil, points, condenser etc - I can type for a very long time of things it can be. Easier to narrow it to one of the three things you need and then focus on what causes that to be missing.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:21 pm

well sounds like your making some progress- I would put the auxiliary air and 5th injector high on the list- include the air temp time switch too- show pictures and give ohm readings- we can go from there- also there is a good free diagnostic book in the tech section here.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 4:01 pm

Where is the air temp time switch?

Sun Oct 02, 2016 4:03 pm

I do have spark when I've checked in the past.
I can smell the fuel, it seems flooded.
I'll check compression.
Thanks

Sun Oct 02, 2016 4:14 pm

cdolsen1 wrote: I do have spark when I've checked in the past.
I can smell the fuel, it seems flooded.
I'll check compression.
Thanks

you might have a bad TSII. It is a temperature sender that makes the mixture richer when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up it leans out. When they go bad they can cause flooding when warm.

It sits next to the #3 cylinder intake and goes where one of the bolts would go. Has one wire coming off it. The most common issue is either the connection that wire plugs into a few inches away is corroded, or the sender itself has a corroded connection to the head. They can grab and break trying to remove them. Best bet is put penetrating oil on them 24 hours in advance, and then gently remove it in loosen tighten loosen tighten a little movements, keeping the threads clean as it unscrews. Clean the threads and the unit then put it back in and try again. There is a published resistance one can check with an ohm meter if you have an accurate one.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/TempSensorII.html

Sun Oct 02, 2016 6:05 pm

cdolsen1 wrote: Where is the air temp time switch?
There should be one bolted to it's own bracket on the case parting line,
kind of hiding under the center FI intake plenum, if memory serves me right.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 6:53 pm

cdolsen1 wrote: Where is the air temp time switch?

Wed Oct 05, 2016 6:05 pm

OK. I found a bad connection to temp sensor. I replaced the wire connector and it seems that it is running good.
Took it for test drive and restarted it 30, 60,90 minutes later.

Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:11 pm

You always want to do the electrical part of your fuel injection trouble shooting from the plug on the ECU. This will show you if there are problems in the wiring or not.

Sun Oct 09, 2016 6:40 am

I was able to drive around all day yesterday.
Many stops and had no issues.
Thank you for all of the help.
I'ts great to have such incredible help out there.
Thanks

Wed Jun 28, 2017 4:02 pm

Bad news!
I've had the bus running but now it is running very rich and floods out after about 10 miles of driving.
Last night I drove over to a friend with no problem. I was there for about three hours, and the bus started fine when left.
My wife followed me home. She said it was blowing black and white exhuast. Almost home and the engine was chugging and stopped. Pushed for 5 minutes and then she restarted. made it home but I need to figure this out before I can enjoy the bus.
Total trip was only 8 miles both ways.
Any Ideas where to start?
Thanks

Wed Jun 28, 2017 4:17 pm

cdolsen1 wrote: Bad news!
I've had the bus running but now it is running very rich and floods out after about 10 miles of driving.
Last night I drove over to a friend with no problem. I was there for about three hours, and the bus started fine when left.
My wife followed me home. She said it was blowing black and white exhuast. Almost home and the engine was chugging and stopped. Pushed for 5 minutes and then she restarted. made it home but I need to figure this out before I can enjoy the bus.
Total trip was only 8 miles both ways.
Any Ideas where to start?
Thanks

Have you checked the resistance of your TSII sensor?

Wed Jun 28, 2017 5:21 pm

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/TempSensorII.html

Wed Jun 28, 2017 6:55 pm

Tonight I found the distributor was loose. After setting the timing again I drove around about 8 miles and found no smoke and the bus was able to pull through all gears. I will keep posted on progress.
Thanks.

Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:11 am

Don't forget to Lube the Distributor advance.
Lubing the Distributor

Thu Jun 29, 2017 3:30 pm

Thanks !
Will do

Mon Jul 03, 2017 3:51 pm

Ok, today I was out for about 20 miles running great. I had no smoke and had good power up the hills. Then out of the blue, it started to sputter and died. we pulled off the road and tried to restart with no luck for about five minutes. The three lights on the dash lit up as it died, Oil pressure, alternator, and EGR. Just as I was ready to call for help I tried to start it and she came to life again. I drove home about two miles even uphill for part of it and the bus ran great. This is frustrating! I did have fuel and fuel pressure. What would cause this sudden loss and regain of the engine?

Mon Jul 03, 2017 4:43 pm

the rich running & stalling describe intermittent ignition system function,
you did clean the tank last year, and new filter, barring a rag in the tank
blocking fuel flow, this would seem to be spark/engine heat related,
it may be time to put classic points & condenser on it & see what happens
when it reaches proper temp 10-15 miles down the road.