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Wed Jul 20, 2016 10:49 am

Finally starting to work on my new 71, thought I would start with the brakes since they are non-existent and it is really tough to roll the Super around.

I've been applying PB Blaster on the axle nuts over the last 2 weeks every couple of days in preparation for this event...

Using an electric impact, the nuts would NOT budge. I was running it for around 10-15 seconds but wasn't comfortable doing it for longer.

I tried using a 2 foot breaker as well, but because the brakes are non existent I can't stop the vehicle from rolling as I apply my full body weight. I chocked it up and all that looked like was going to happen was the pivot joint on the end of the breaker was going to give out.

I've heard that heating the nuts can work, but I've never done it. How long do I need to heat them for? Just want to make sure I'm not screwing anything else under the axle nuts themselves with heat.

Wed Jul 20, 2016 10:57 am

Can you move the car where it's against the house? Put a piece of cardboard between the bumper and the house so there's no damage, and get a 4' or longer pole to slide over the breaker bar for more leverage. I use my floor jack handle.

A harbor freight torch will work good too, you'll know when it's ready, it'll start to get orange.

Wed Jul 20, 2016 11:00 am

Okay, I might need to pick up another propane can then since my torch is almost out. Orange huh!

Unfortunately the only wall that it could go against is the garage door haha!

Wed Jul 20, 2016 11:17 am

If you have a VW vendor nearby, get a Buddybar. You place it over two lugs, tighten them down; and the arm presses against the floor, preventing the wheel from turning. They cost about twenty-five dollars.

Definitely get a four-foot long cheater pipe to place over your (preferably 3/4 inch) breaker bar.

Tim

Wed Jul 20, 2016 11:17 am

Take a 5-6 foot steel angle beam or channel (old bed rail works), drill two holes in one end of it to bolt to your brake drum with two lug bolts.
That will go against the floor while your cheater/breaker bar/socket combo breaks the nut loose.

Wed Jul 20, 2016 11:24 am

pistolpetecowboy wrote: Take a 5-6 foot steel angle beam or channel (old bed rail works), drill two holes in one end of it to bolt to your brake drum with two lug bolts.
That will go against the floor while your cheater/breaker bar/socket combo breaks the nut loose.

YEP!

You can do the same thing to remove a flywheel.

Wed Jul 20, 2016 1:34 pm

Once, I had the same problem; after I broke a 3/4" breaker bar and 4' pipe, I went with a large pipe wrench on the nut and the 4" pipe on that. It came off, but did bugger up the nut. Maybe a last resort?

Mike

Wed Jul 20, 2016 2:07 pm

mushisushi wrote: I chocked it up and all that looked like was going to happen was the pivot joint on the end of the breaker was going to give out.
It was probably a good idea you stopped. I slid an 8 foot long pipe over the end of my 2 foot, 1/2 breaker bar and applied my weight. The 1/2 drive broke off right where it enters the socket.

I'm speaking of the rear wheels here. The front nuts should be no problem once you stop the car from rolling.

The rear wheel nuts don't "break" the way a normal nut would, incidentally. You can actually have rotated it some small amount, but it still feels completely tight. I have the feeling the shaft on which the threads are cut is actually slightly tapered. Anyway, I didn't think I had made one bit of progress until I happened to notice the hole through the nut had changed position slightly with respect to the hole in the shaft. That gave me the encouragement to keep trying despite the fact the nut still felt tight as hell.

I haven't used one of these, myself, but people who have speak well of it:

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Flywheel-and-Brake-Drum-Torque-Tool-Kit-36mm-p/torque-tool.htm

It has the advantage of letting you know where your torque is at when you put the nut back on.

Wed Jul 20, 2016 2:14 pm

My 'never fail' axle nut removal tools are a BFH and a cold chisel. Its a last resort method but has yet to fail me. And you don't need brakes to get it loose. A 2 pound hammer should suffice. Works for stuck flywheel gland nuts as well. Replacing the nut after this method is encouraged!

Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:09 pm

Finally success!

I heated for about 2 minutes - axle nut didn't glow at all. Probably there is too much metal and not enough torch to heat it before it can dissipate through the axle/drum. Impact didn't work after heating.

So I figured maybe with a heated nut I could try applying some penetrant. I used 'Fluid Film' which was kind of pricey but I find the smell very appealing. It is lanolin based, and the stuff just flowed straight down into the threads of the axle which didn't happen when it was cold.

Used the impact after this and off it popped! Both sides the same!

Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:48 pm

mushisushi wrote: Finally success!

I heated for about 2 minutes - axle nut didn't glow at all. Probably there is too much metal and not enough torch to heat it before it can dissipate through the axle/drum. Impact didn't work after heating.

So I figured maybe with a heated nut I could try applying some penetrant. I used 'Fluid Film' which was kind of pricey but I find the smell very appealing. It is lanolin based, and the stuff just flowed straight down into the threads of the axle which didn't happen when it was cold.

Used the impact after this and off it popped! Both sides the same!
Lanolin? Who knew?

How did you prevent rotation?

Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:56 pm

I had the same problem, and borrowed a 3/4 impact from a friend. Even with that and 120 PSI, it still took a while.

Wed Jul 20, 2016 4:33 pm

Didn't rotate at all, used the impact on it. Took a good hammering to come loose with the lanolin spray though!

Wed Jul 20, 2016 7:42 pm

Torque-meister (torque-tool, torque-multiplier) is your friend.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:06 pm

I am having the same problem both sides are stuck good Tried PB blaster no relief. I bought the torque miser thing and have broke teeth off of it, still not moving.
I tried the pipe on the breaker bars again and bent the tire iron I was using to stop rotation into a u shape. It is a 74 super beetle with no brakes so Got to get the done.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:32 pm

:oops: :oops: Last/last resort would be to grind down till you cas see threads- then try all of the above. small amount of thread damage will not hurt -- depending what your definition of "small" is.

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If it will tow/dolly/trailer to a big truck shop-tire place- there is NOTHING those gorillxx xx technicians can't get loose--- but if they say " just a minute --I.ve got to turn up the pressure"-- you might want to do the grind off thing.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 1:27 pm

Either grind, or cut at an angle with a hacksaw - once the cut is deep enough, the nut will crack with enough torque on it.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 2:51 pm

mushisushi wrote: Finally success!
<...>
Used the impact after this and off it popped! Both sides the same!
So... How do you plan to tighten the nuts back down to the proper torque? :shock:
This is where a torque-buddy comes in handy.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:05 pm

^^ why not just get the torque tool for easier removal and proper torque when installing.

Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:13 pm

I used CRC Freeze Off on my axle nuts. Spray for 15 seconds, then used an electric impact. They came right off. That stuff is amazing!