TheSamba.com :: View topic - rear trailing arm/lower control arm bushing removal/replacement

Tue Jul 26, 2016 10:56 am

has anyone tried rta/lca bushing removal/ replacement without removing the trailing arm or lower control arm? is it possible/practial? using gowesty type tool or pipe to hose reducer.

Tue Jul 26, 2016 11:08 am

but WHY

I can't imagine it being any easier, I'm sure it can be done, but it might be a struggle.

Tue Jul 26, 2016 11:11 am

Yep, totally possible! I've done it several times. The biggest thing to look out for on the RTA is the short brake hoses. They aren't very long and they limit how far down you can drop the arms. Just make sure that the arms are supported to keep from pulling on the hoses.

The only real difficulty on the front LCAs is that the springs are trying to push the arms outward. It works best to compress the springs to reduce the load on the arms, but I have done it without as well. A ratchet strap to help keep the arms pulled inward helps.

Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:53 pm

I agree that it is doable, but was a challenge lining up the holes for installation of the bolts. I remember using ratchet straps and pry bars. Just when I was about to breakdown and cry like a schoolgirl, the bolts slid home.....

This was on the front LCA's on a Syncro with the radius rods removed btw...

Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:26 pm

if you use spring compressors and loosen shock would that make it easy to replace bushings. keeping a floor jack under the control arm.

Tue Jul 26, 2016 9:47 pm

You should remove the shock and spring, (spring compressor not required) as well as the drop link and then disconnect the upper control arm and then you will be able to support/manipulate the LCA and spindle assembly in order to remove the LCA bolt and replace the bushing. Use correct jack stands. Wear safety glasses.

Keep us posted.

Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:15 am

In this YouTube video to replace the rear control arm bushings in situ he removes the shock and spring before dropping the rear of the trailing arm. Is this necessary? Won't the front of the trailing arm drop down without removing these?

Also he puts grease on the outside of the bushings but some other people only talk about putting grease on the inside diameter of the brushing - which is right?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsJa7GW2wxc

Tue Jun 26, 2018 5:05 am

I did remove my rear shock and spring when I replaced mine. I did not disconnect CV

Tue Jun 26, 2018 10:56 am

I didn't watch the video but if the poster shows replacing bushings with arm still attached to the drive shaft, rear axle housing.....

If things aren't really well supported and secured and inboard CV is left connected, I'd wonder if the arm/axle housing etc. weight might potentially damage the inboard CV assembly. But then if job is done like that, maybe the arm can rotate downward far enough even with the shock still attached and the shock helps support the work?

Heat can work well to aid in bushing removal. Safety first of course and doing this with a propane torch will provide a fair amount of smoke and risk of flames.

Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:01 am

I supported mine with a two straps to prevent CV problems. If I had to do again I would have removed the CV and brake line. However I was in a time crunch.

Also. I used a 'master ball press' kit #23 (i think) from Advance auto to remove my bushings. I used a combination of little tools in that kit. I did have a 1/2" air impact also.

Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:24 am

Right. Brake line. Something to watch.

The method I used involved removing the brake assembly and driveshaft/CV's as a "unit". More work I guess but it allowed me to add new-push out old grease at axle bearings and for me, more safely handle the parts concerned.

Sounds like that Autozone kit works a lot better than bits of pipe and threaded rod but it can be done that way too.

Mellow: AFAIK, for the 2 pc bushing design, the bushing halves are held captive to the arm, the sleeve is held captive to the body brackets and the bushings rotate on the sleeve. So, the bushing shouldn't be allowed to rotate against the arm hole. But, maybe video poster added grease at that point as a preventative measure to help avoid squeaking noise at that point? just some WAG'ing here.... I've had zero speak noise from my Whiteline bushings at that arm.

Neil.

Wed Jun 27, 2018 12:24 am

Thinking about this more, is there even any need to remove the shock, spring or wheel? If I jack the body up on stands so the rear suspension is unloaded and the wheel is just touching the ground this will prevent the rear of the trailing arm falling down and keep the drive shaft in position.

Then I can put a jack under the front of the trailing arm, remove the bushing bolts and lower the jack down (while keeping an eye on the brake hose) until the bushings are accessible. As long as the trailing arm remains square on the jack the wheel and drive shaft shouldn't move so this should work ok shouldn't it?

Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:42 am

Based upon my limited experience it sounds like you are underestimating by some margin how much of a pig of a job it will be to get the trailing arm off and the old bushes out. In my case it involved sawing through the trailing arm bolts and destructively removing (drilling out) the old bushes before new ones could be fitted. Also fitting the new bushes is not something I would want to do underneath a van. If you are replacing your trailing arm bushes, you might also want to take the opportunity to properly check your trailing arms for corrosion, and if you have the time you might want to strip them completely and get them galvanised and repainted.

Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:50 am

Yeah maybe, but I have bought a heavy duty balljoint press tool and suitable sized fat washers so the tool fits inside/outside the bushing bores properly. I am using two piece urethane bushings which make installation easy and the trailing arms are in good condition (my van would have never been driven on a salted road) so dont need repairs. Maybe it wont work, but I will save a heap of work if it does.

Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:31 am

Mellow Yellow 74 wrote: Yeah maybe, but I have bought a heavy duty balljoint press tool and suitable sized fat washers so the tool fits inside/outside the bushing bores properly. I am using two piece urethane bushings which make installation easy and the trailing arms are in good condition (my van would have never been driven on a salted road) so dont need repairs. Maybe it wont work, but I will save a heap of work if it does.
let us know with pics and progress i am getting ready to do the same task and would like to know what i am getting into.

Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:37 am

The kit below is $225 to rent at advance auto. I used this. I put a cup on one side, then used the small 1/2" pieces in top right of photo on other side. 1/2" impact. You'll need to change cups at some point. The first one took like 20 minutes. After that it was like 5 mins per to remove.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-too...joint+tool

Wed Jun 27, 2018 6:30 am

For the rear trailing arm you can use Powerflex inner bushes originally made for the VW T4(Eurovan). They are the exact same dimension as the T3 (Vanagon) but they are two-piece bushings. The original T4 bushing from VW even has the 251... parts number indicating that this actually is a T3 part.

These: https://www.powerflex-shop.com/2-x-Powerflex-PFR85...VW-T4-Nr10

Lower front control arm bushings from Powerflex are two-piece originally, and are easy to install.

https://www.powerflex-shop.com/2-x-Powerflex-PFF85...Bus-T3-Nr1

Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:19 am

clift_d wrote: Based upon my limited experience it sounds like you are underestimating by some margin how much of a pig of a job it will be to get the trailing arm off and the old bushes out. In my case it involved sawing through the trailing arm bolts and destructively removing (drilling out) the old bushes before new ones could be fitted. Also fitting the new bushes is not something I would want to do underneath a van. If you are replacing your trailing arm bushes, you might also want to take the opportunity to properly check your trailing arms for corrosion, and if you have the time you might want to strip them completely and get them galvanised and repainted.

This.

I don't know the climates in Sydney but I also found that I had to cut the bushing bolts. Only one came out w/o the need to cut it. The recip saw I used had a short housing and re-positionable blade. (up/down and L/R IIRC)

IMO, to echo whats been said, "balancing" the work like that then wrestling with those parts is risky.

If you can't source a tool to press the old bushings out, heat will help ease them out but obviously, smoke and flames created is not what you want in a cramped space with parts on the vehicle.

Neil.

1/4 of four bolts actually came out w/o an issue. Kroil penetrating fluid was quite helpful here.

be very mindful of the brackets and brake line when using the saws all.

just one example of the mung and rust that can live in the arm.

Wed Jun 27, 2018 12:51 pm

I don't know about trying to press out the bushings under the van, but a simple three-jaw puller can be used to push out the bushes.

Just use a box knife to trim off the edges and they push right through.
No need for drilling or flames.

Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:00 pm

The EASIEST way to remove those bushings is to heat up the inner collar with a propane torch, so that the flame goes through the collar, until the rubber starts to liquefy & bubble around the collar (yeah, it will start to burn too, you can easily blow it out or have a damp rag nearby), then use a screw driver to push the collar out of the bushing, once it's halfway out, the bushing will squeeze the collar out by itself. Let it all cool off so you don't get burned & then wedge the screw driver between the control arm & bushing & pry the bushing out. 5-8 minutes, minimal effort.