VanagonPDX |
Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:40 pm |
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I swear I had stumbled onto a thread referencing some places that could do this, but I am coming up empty handed in searches.
My vanagon has had the rear hatch swapped at some point, and thus left me with a hatch I cannot lock. The locksmith wants $35 to rekey, but I assume for a place that does it, it could be done much cheaper. Maybe I am wrong and should just suck it up and pay the $35.
Anyways, if you know of a place that does this, or even better a place in Bend, Portland, or Seattle (Going on a little road trip this weekend) that does it, that would great! |
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Ahwahnee |
Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:54 pm |
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VanagonPDX wrote: ...My vanagon has had the rear hatch swapped at some point, and thus left me with a hatch I cannot lock...
Sounds like you do not have a key for the lock that is on there. If so, that may make it difficult to remove the lock & tumbler for a DIY key change (which is otherwise not too hard).
35 bucks for a locksmith doesn't sound too bad to me. |
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jmranger |
Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:13 pm |
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I'm a bit confused: are you asking the locksmith to cut a key based on the code stamped in the lock (in which case you'd end up with a different key for the rear hatch than for the other locks) or to change the tumblers to match the other keys?
A key cut by code is usually fairly cheap - I'd think less than $10.
Changing the tumblers - no idea how much that would cost, but it might be something that you could want to do yourself. Lots of info in those two threads:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=599308
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=553954 |
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VanagonPDX |
Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:27 pm |
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If I can get my hands on a key I can pull the lock cylinder and rekey it to match my others. Not in a huge rush, so though if I could save myself some trips to the locksmith and 20-30 bucks I would do it. The locksmith closest quoted $65, but the one down in bend said $35, but would need to drop it off and come back later, leaving me with a flapping hatch for the day :/
At some point I remember seeing a thread that listed some places that can cut the key if I provide the code. I have had this done numerous times for Yakima and Thule racks at reRack in Portland for something like $3. Was hoping somewhere did the same for these keys. |
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weswsimpson |
Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:35 pm |
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contact this guy, he cut a key from code for me for $12. He's also helpful and he has a website with lots of good info too.
http://www.aircooledkeys.com
[email protected]
I got all but one of my locks working by flooding the locks with liquid wrench over several days and jamming the key in and twisting, the drivers door I had to take apart. Not hard, but you need a very small punch and take photos and don't mess up the pieces. (You don't need a key to take your cylinder apart.) |
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VanagonPDX |
Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:49 pm |
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weswsimpson wrote: contact this guy, he cut a key from code for me for $12.
I suppose the more I think about this and get info it is seeming more and more worth paying $35. Just informed that Bend Lock and Safe can match my key for $25. Still have to hang out in Bend for some hours, but at least it keeps me from keying it myself, and I can walk away with one key that does it all.
That link is super informative, and I think it was the link I was looking for earlier! If nothing else, maybe the next person will now find this link when searching. |
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geodude |
Thu Jul 28, 2016 3:05 pm |
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Steve's Lock Shop did a great job, had the keys cut the same day I emailed him with the key code.
http://www.steveslockshop.com/volkswagen.html
Its funny I had very bad experience with another commonly mentioned key shop. After two or three weeks of back and forth with the guy I had to tell him to refund my money on Paypal because he refused to make the keys I'd asked for!? Some weirdness about I didn't have a lost key because I sent him a photo of the old worn key (which he asked me to do!). I never said I had a lost key. The whole thing was very weird. |
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davideric9 |
Fri Jul 29, 2016 6:32 am |
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Quote: (You don't need a key to take your cylinder apart.)
If I recall correctly, a key is needed to remove the rear hatch cylinder and the ignition cylinder, at least if you plan to reinstall these without damage. |
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VanagonPDX |
Fri Jul 29, 2016 7:01 am |
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I ended up a locksmith yesterday to rekey the hatch lock to match me others. Due to the worn key I gave them to match, they cut a key by code, which didn't work in anything. In the end they got it to work in all, and ok in the hatch. But I realized that had I paid to have a shop just send me a key cut from code it wouldn't have worked anyways due to the worn tumblers. |
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crazyvwvanman |
Fri Jul 29, 2016 8:45 am |
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I have had keys cut from the code many times on the many vans I have owned. When I get a new van I usually do it since I can tell by looking at the keys when they are badly worn. I don't recall ever having an issue where the new keys didn't work at all. They may take a little use to work well in all of them though. Here is an example of a worn key next to a new code cut key for the same van.
Mark |
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tjet |
Mon Feb 13, 2017 1:39 pm |
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Where exactly is the key code on the locks?
I'm having a problem with the ignition lock (worn key)
I found this below, but not too specific
Quote: I pulled my key code off of the rear hatch lock. IMO that's a really easy lock to R&R to get the code. Removal of three exposed bolts (6mm allen wrench) is all it takes. You'll need a nice long allen wrench to get leverage as these bolts can be stuck in there pretty good.
Thanks |
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weswsimpson |
Mon Feb 13, 2017 9:12 pm |
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start here, maybe this will help
http://www.aircooledkeys.com |
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Mark Hatgi |
Mon Feb 25, 2019 12:54 pm |
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newer profile AN AH N VB HV keys have a sine wave type of cut. The tool used to make code cut keys creates a square wave type of cut. More notchy because it actually notches the cuts into the key.
Do not confuse the wave cut for WEAR. Most signs of wear are on the sides of the key and are cosmetic. If you are having problems with lock operation, it is usually a worn out lock cylinder bore and the key is "plowing" up or down because the profile inside the lock has worn and no longer guides the key down the center. A new key is not going to solve the problem.
(these are not the same cut keys, just example of the cut style)
Mark at www.aircooledkey.com [/img] |
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joetiger |
Mon Feb 25, 2019 2:37 pm |
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My van came with an extra key, which I assumed was a dud because it didn't open the doors or start the vehicle.
A few days ago I pulled it out and tried again, and it opened the doors with a bit of jimmying but won't start the van. It looks very similar in cut to the key that works. What gives? Worn out locks? Bad copy? |
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Gnarlodious |
Mon Feb 25, 2019 3:13 pm |
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Check the profile. Some VWs have a different profile for the doors and ignition. Both types will work in the door locks bot pnly one works in the ignition, so it can be confusing. |
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