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Bermoco Sun Aug 28, 2016 8:29 pm

All are great ideas and posts. Here is another: West Marine supply sells stuff to make cables and also lets you crimp your own. I went to West Marine boating supply and took a VW clutch cable , cut it 14 1/2 inches shorter at the end that hooks on to the pedal assembly and used the thimbles for cables they supply and swaged the cable around the thimble with the crimp they sell. Seems to work OK for over a year now. I used the West Marine route because I found the common cable shortening devices had too much flex and had too much play which did not release clutch fully. I like how it looks stock.
I carry a spare stock cable and will use Dales technique if mine breaks.
The pictures you see of buggies without Bowden tube probably have solid trans/motor mounts.
Bart

Goshen Sun Aug 28, 2016 9:26 pm

Bermoco wrote: All are great ideas and posts. Here is another: West Marine supply sells stuff to make cables and also lets you crimp your own. I went to West Marine boating supply and took a VW clutch cable , cut it 14 1/2 inches shorter at the end that hooks on to the pedal assembly and used the thimbles for cables they supply and swaged the cable around the thimble with the crimp they sell. Seems to work OK for over a year now. I used the West Marine route because I found the common cable shortening devices had too much flex and had too much play which did not release clutch fully. I like how it looks stock.
I carry a spare stock cable and will use Dales technique if mine breaks.
The pictures you see of buggies without Bowden tube probably have solid trans/motor mounts.
Bart

Post photos so we can see what you are talking about

JiI Tue Oct 25, 2016 5:28 pm

Hey guys, here are the parts at HF I saw today.
Jeff

MrGoodtunes Wed Jan 10, 2018 11:58 am

MrGoodtunes wrote: tgodber wrote: ...I used the shortener that bends the cable over and a nut tightens up against it. That broke in 3 months...

Me too. Mine broke while in the parking lot of Lowe's home improvement store. So I had a store full of things like threaded rod, long nuts, and good strong but also flexible garage door opener cable. Did the fix right there in the parking lot. That was 1999 and this rig is still holding today.



Well, that rig finally broke. And again, it happen'd in a parking lot where I fix'd it with an upgraded rig. Not as elegant as what @saw2 came up with (earlier in this thread), but probably will last. Used an eye bolt this time, along with the smooth end loop guide that came with the little cable clamps, completely doing away with all parts of the old cable shortening kit:


veeweeman Wed Jan 10, 2018 2:19 pm

Very cool idea. ..I'm surprised that the VW industry hasn't thought of this yet...very clean finished look. ..when they do...expect to pay like $20 for it :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks for the tip.

cbeck Fri Jan 12, 2018 4:32 am

Looks like somebody raided the bins on my company truck. Here is another tip, never saddle a dead horse, er cable. The saddle should ride on the working side of the cable and the u bolt should be on the other side. The u bolt will crush, deform, and slightly unravel the cable when tightened. You don't want that to happen on the working side of the cable.

joescoolcustoms Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:57 am

I am at 50,000 + miles on this set up. Same cable, same clamps, same wing nut. 2 different transaxle configurations. I do silver solder the ends of the cable so they do not frey and the silver gives the clamps something to "bite" into and not slip. This same set up will get driven across the US again and race the April NORRA 1000 this year.

I still carry a spare cable everywhere I go.


rodjr Mon Jan 22, 2018 7:10 pm

I just sent a factory clutch cable to California Push Pull, they shortened it proper with a new hook end. The end is a tiny bit different and required that i sand about 1/8" off the end (which has plenty of meat on it), took about 10 seconds with a disc sander.
They also made me a spare from scratch (cost a fraction more), but it's cheaper to just have them shorten a new cable.
Other than the tiny trim job i did to the end, it is absolutely a new cable in every way, exactly the right length, strong as the original and they charged me a whopping $20.00 plus shipping.
I can't imagine screwing around with clamps and loops or searching for ends when $20 will get you a perfect new custom cable, while you work on something else.

Now that i have seen what a nice job they do, my emergency brake cables are going to them as well.

http://push-pull.com/

markdam Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:30 pm

did you happen to measure the new shortened cable length? did you tell push pull how much to cut?

rodjr wrote: I just sent a factory clutch cable to California Push Pull, they shortened it proper with a new hook end. The end is a tiny bit different and required that i sand about 1/8" off the end (which has plenty of meat on it), took about 10 seconds with a disc sander.
They also made me a spare from scratch (cost a fraction more), but it's cheaper to just have them shorten a new cable.
Other than the tiny trim job i did to the end, it is absolutely a new cable in every way, exactly the right length, strong as the original and they charged me a whopping $20.00 plus shipping.
I can't imagine screwing around with clamps and loops or searching for ends when $20 will get you a perfect new custom cable, while you work on something else.

Now that i have seen what a nice job they do, my emergency brake cables are going to them as well.

http://push-pull.com/

joescoolcustoms Mon Oct 29, 2018 4:09 pm

joescoolcustoms wrote: I am at 50,000 + miles on this set up. Same cable, same clamps, same wing nut. 2 different transaxle configurations. I do silver solder the ends of the cable so they do not frey and the silver gives the clamps something to "bite" into and not slip. This same set up will get driven across the US again and race the April NORRA 1000 this year.

I still carry a spare cable everywhere I go.



Update. Cable now has over 62,000 miles and the NORRA race on it. Do have to state that I use the Classic Bug Parts front Big Foot extender with he bushed roller tip to help save the front stock loop.


mr_bill Mon Oct 29, 2018 5:20 pm

http://push-pull.com/

will make "custom-length" to YOUR specs....have clutch & throttle cables from Push-Pull on my "OldManx" & my "tunnell-buggy" resto-mod Quite reasonably priced & QUICK tour around

sent them THIS pic.........less than a week (2) cables showed-up 2 my door (one is a "spare")



I ALWAYS prefer a "stock" type set-up.. :roll: :roll:

rodjr Mon Oct 29, 2018 6:06 pm

I shortened my 1972 beetle chassis 14 5/8", I purchased a 1972 beetle clutch cable and sent it to push/pull with a note that said "shorten 14 5/8" over all, and make one more cable to match".
They returned them and they fit absolutely perfect. Under $40 for both plus shipping.

markdam Mon Oct 29, 2018 6:43 pm

Awesome I guess I asking if they're all not more or less the same on a shorten buggy chassis. Or do I have to actually measure mine

Q-Dog Tue Oct 30, 2018 5:29 am

You have to measure. VW used different lengths of cable over the years. Plus, some buggies don't get shortened the same amount. Add that together and you need to measure to be sure.

markdam Tue Oct 30, 2018 7:18 pm

Is there a way to measure it with the pedal assembly already removed and sent off to be rebuilt all I have is the hole in the tunnel

MrGoodtunes Wed Oct 31, 2018 1:15 pm

Measure your wheel base @Markdam, axle-to-axle (center of front wheel to center of rear, with steering wheel straight ahead center'd). It's probably 80 inches. If so, you can go with the standard dune buggy cable length, which is ~14.5 inches shorter than stock VW cable.

EVfun Wed Oct 31, 2018 4:43 pm

I used a "ground split bolt" easily found with a google search and readily available at your local hardware store. The clutch cable was cut and both ends passed through the split. I can adjust the length and then tighten it down. I installes a second one about an inch behind the first for extra security. It worked for 10 years, the cable doesn't see extra stress because it isn't bent or folded over.



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