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Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:01 am

I've got to reseal the flanges on my '66 Swing Axle. Seems the PO noticed a leak, I mean a hemorrhage and tried to fix it with a tube or two of RTV. Didn't work.
So I want to do it right. The gasket kit i got was the yellow or lt. brown paper gaskets. They seem pretty low quality like newspaper. Are the yellow ones good? Are the Red ones better?
I'd rather know now than later.

Thanks

Thu Oct 13, 2016 11:36 am

The red ones are more forgiving to handling. Personally have made them out of good quality bond office paper. Do finger paint a little copper RTV on each when final assembling to help seal them up. Make sure to flatten up the flanges and use a torque wrench or just have everything leak again.

If you do not have one, get a copy of the workshop manual and follow the directions. Especially on how to set the paper shims/gaskets.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=book1

Thu Oct 13, 2016 12:31 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: If you do not have one, get a copy of the workshop manual and follow the directions. Especially on how to set the paper shims/gaskets.
Do this first . . . you need to know how many shims (gaskets) to install.
Each transaxle/axle tube combination is different, AND, The number of shims/gaskets might be different on either side, so ya gotta check it!

Eric&Barb wrote: Do finger paint a little copper RTV on each when final assembling to help seal them up.
Then do this . . . apply with finger to get a THIN layer of sealant!

The large "O" rings are used ONLY on the later style axle tubes.

Thu Oct 13, 2016 2:28 pm

and.. in the end.. if you really want it to stop seeping. . you too should use some good quality RTV and pipe sealant on every stud.

Chances are the flanges will be crushed and deformed at every stud hole so make sure you take the time to flatten them out or UPGRADE to the better ones.

There is a method to sealing these up and shimming correctly.. do your homework.. and read up on what works and what does not..

Its a job you do not want to do twice..

IMO.. when going that far.. reseal the whole thing ..

I've used both products.. .. both work fine.... its all about the process of assembly..

.

Thu Oct 13, 2016 3:28 pm

Thanks for the replies/advice! This is why I love TheSamba!

Thu Oct 13, 2016 4:16 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: The red ones are more forgiving to handling. Personally have made them out of good quality bond office paper. Do finger paint a little copper RTV on each when final assembling to help seal them up. Make sure to flatten up the flanges and use a torque wrench or just have everything leak again.

If you do not have one, get a copy of the workshop manual and follow the directions. Especially on how to set the paper shims/gaskets.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=book1

Per the manual you may need to use more than 1 gasket when everything is tight the axle should move up and down without binding.

Thu Oct 13, 2016 4:32 pm

One thing I forgot to ask.
When I test fit the gaskets to find the correct number, do I snug down the nuts or full torque each time?

Thanks again!

Thu Oct 13, 2016 7:01 pm

The Watto wrote: When I test fit the gaskets to find the correct number, do I snug down the nuts or full torque each time?
Yes, you need to torque the nuts to 14 ft/lb each time. You may need to assemble, tear down and reassemble several times to get the right combination of shims on each side.
The correct endplay is set pretty much by trial & error using a combination of gaskets (usually 3 or 4 on each side) that add up to the proper thickness. Once assembled, the axle tubes must have free range of movement in all directions with no binding. Excessive endplay must also be avoided. The most common gasket thickness is .015", but others are also available. If you're not able to source a suitable variety of gaskets, manila file folders (.010"), or even a good quality of bond paper (.004"), can be used to make your own gaskets in order to fine-tune the endplay. And to echo the advice of others, be sure to spread a thin coat of Loctite RTV Gasket Maker (or similar) on both sides of each gasket for a leak-free assembly.

Sat Oct 15, 2016 6:37 am

The majority use the trial and error method..
There are a few ways.. to not have to do all that extra attempts..
Sometimes.. I assemble without gaskets.. measure the axle tube end play.. calculate and create the gasket shim stack as required.

When the tube clearance is correct there should be no end play and it should have light drag when moved and be able to move freely up and down (simulated suspension movement) or in a full circle is ideal.. but not always achievable due to warped flanges. Ideally with just the axle shaft inside the tube and without tube end play, the tube should be able to drop from the highest point to the lowest point under its own weight. If its a little stiffer than that.. its fine.. as long as it moves fully...

If the tube has end play.. take out gaskets.. if its too stiff.. add gaskets..

NOTE: The majority of gasket kits out there get the job done but are far from having enough variety of sizes if you are OCD about it being perfect.
Some have created their own gaskets from scavenging different paper thicknesses. That's the assemblers a choice.

When you think its rights.. and ready to assemble, be sure to lubricate the axle bowl and flower bushing lightly, apply skim coats of GOOD RTV to each gasket and trans case surface. Use a moderate amount on the flange surface. This is one area i want to see it squeeze out some.. It helps fill any gaps in most warped flanges..

Get a book too..

.
.

Sun Oct 30, 2016 3:52 pm

Thanks for the reply on my post about replacing the shims on the swing axle.
I found this video (not mine) and would like for you to see it and offer your opinion. Correct or not?
I've been testing the shims on mine today. With ONE shim I get the same resistance as in the video. TWO shims, much more movement and the axle will not hold at horizontal.
Three shims and it's a limp wet noodle.

Thank you,
Watto

Sun Oct 30, 2016 4:11 pm

That video is an example of how not to do it. It needs enough clearance so the axle can articulate up and down freely. Don't test it front to rear, the axle doesn't go that way.
Don't use pieces of paper to make gaskets. They are the wrong material and will be the cause of a leak.

Sun Oct 30, 2016 4:12 pm

The Watto wrote:
I've been testing the shims on mine today. With ONE shim I get the same resistance as in the video. TWO shims, much more movement and the axle will not hold at horizontal.

You want axle tube to fall under it's own weight, and no noticeable in/out movement.

Sun Oct 30, 2016 4:14 pm

Thanks Bruce, That's what I was thinking.
Watto

Sun Oct 30, 2016 4:16 pm

Thanks Eric

Tue Nov 01, 2016 11:23 am

If you have to use RTV, then your flanges are no longer flat. I use HD "axle tube stiffeners" on all swingaxle builds. These seem to eliminate any leaks.

It's sometimes difficult to get the correct clearance without having the .004" size gasket to work with.

It's more straightforward to determine proper axle tube clearance withOUT the axles installed, IMO.