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rotaecho Thu Nov 03, 2016 4:37 pm

I'm pretty much done with the project, but it's nice to spread the knowledge around.

I have documented the whole process here:

http://www.vanagondiesel.info/index.php/Betsy_Bertha%27s_MTDI_AHU_Conversion_Notes

I will post each part of the wiki related to the conversion as a new post with photos. It may take a while to get both in parallel lined up.

?Waldo? Thu Nov 03, 2016 5:16 pm

Very cool. You've done an huge amount of work and your documentation of it is very impressive. I look forward to hearing that you've got it running.

vanagonjr Thu Nov 03, 2016 5:20 pm

Impressive documentation! What a service to the Vanagon / T3 community - very admirable sir. =D>

tjet Sat Nov 05, 2016 8:23 am

Looks good.

I bought a pre-converted AHU M-TDI for my Syncro last year. I still need to get some key parts (like a Syncro diesel gas tank). I did get an adapter to run a bigger Garrett turbo on a late AAZ exhaust manifold. It actually moves the turbo up a little higher, which my help for oil drain back

http://www.idparts.com/garrett-2052-turbo-p-2597.html

rotaecho Sat Nov 05, 2016 9:49 am

I'm just waiting for a K14 housing o-ring (2.5mm X 102mm) for the housing to arrive. I got a K14 tried to clock it better once it was in the van and was NOT budging. I removed the housing (straight out) and the O-ring plopped out--like a worm--having excess of around 5mm. I think they used a K16 O-ring on the rebuild.

Should be here soon, also changing the IC up, and a few more hoses to arrive.

Hoping to time the IP today. It's a little unclear still after a few websites, but I think I am good after a few comments on the Diesel Vanagon FB group.

Goal is next weekend or the following to start her up :)

rotaecho Sat Nov 05, 2016 9:50 am

Andrew, yourself and many others have given to that wiki and helped make this conversion a reality.

I'm actually in the process of making that battery box ;)

Andrew A. Libby wrote: Very cool. You've done an huge amount of work and your documentation of it is very impressive. I look forward to hearing that you've got it running.

rotaecho Sat Nov 05, 2016 9:52 am

I have an earlier AAZ exhaust (four hole), and have already been thinking of what type of adaptor plate I'd need for another turbo.

I've been getting feedback that I may want to go a different turbo route, so it's in the air.

Waiting to see how the K14 performs first.

tjet wrote: Looks good.

I bought a pre-converted AHU M-TDI for my Syncro last year. I still need to get some key parts (like a Syncro diesel gas tank). I did get an adapter to run a bigger Garrett turbo on a late AAZ exhaust manifold. It actually moves the turbo up a little higher, which my help for oil drain back

http://www.idparts.com/garrett-2052-turbo-p-2597.html

Zeitgeist 13 Sat Nov 05, 2016 9:57 am

Does anyone know of a good source for those three hole AAZ exhaust manifolds?

Ibuprofen Sat Nov 05, 2016 2:39 pm

This is awesome, thank you!

rotaecho Sat Nov 05, 2016 7:05 pm

The www.vwdiesel.net forums or on their FB Page do a shout-out.

You'll find someone. I got one of each, since I wasn't sure what my turbo would have at the time.

Zeitgeist 13 wrote: Does anyone know of a good source for those three hole AAZ exhaust manifolds?

rotaecho Sun Nov 06, 2016 8:23 am

Okay, another forum member mentioned something. Would the idler pulley cut my belt in this configuration? If so, how do I rectify it?

http://www.vanagondiesel.info/index.php/Betsy_Bert...ler_Pulley

Has my notes on installing the Injection Pump Idler Pulley; p/n 028-109-244

Putting the belt on with others and in a hurry, it's not "centered" on the teeth, but closer to the engine block. The belt itself is NOT off the toothed pulley's anywhere.

Will this center up upon first start, or is this the wrong idler pulley for this particular mTDI build?

Looking at my used AHU engine I bought for a reference, the pulley is closer to the block without that gap. However, when I flipped the idler pulley before trying to figure it's orientation, it didn't seem like the other direction would work.

Ideas, thoughts?

Here are some photos:






westyventures Sun Nov 06, 2016 1:30 pm

Looks like the wrong part to me.

The INA brand that I use appears to have quite a bit less offset.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-1-9L-TDI-96-99-Timing-B...1629531735

Where did you get that one?

rotaecho Sun Nov 06, 2016 6:47 pm

Karl,

Thanks, but that's the same P/N I have in mine. I suppose there's two different types with that P/N?

The P/N I obtained was from the ETKA located below for both 96 & 97 years (Passat). It's also made from INA;

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/ma...606/lang/e


westyventures wrote: Looks like the wrong part to me.

The INA brand that I use appears to have quite a bit less offset.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-1-9L-TDI-96-99-Timing-B...1629531735

Where did you get that one?

rotaecho Sun Nov 06, 2016 6:52 pm

Where I got that tensioner I would have to go look.

It was one of three places, but I can't recall which.

westyventures Sun Nov 06, 2016 6:55 pm

Looks like they shipped a wrong part. Try an eBay search there are some INA of other similar quality for less than the first link I posted. The INA ones I've gotten always have a grey unpolished look, so not sure what they sent you.

rotaecho Sun Nov 06, 2016 6:58 pm

I noticed I had: 028109244 in the wiki, but even doing a search of that comes up with the 028109244B.

I'll buy another on eBay, and see what the results are. Should be fairly painless to swap as no pressure is really there.

?Waldo? Sun Nov 06, 2016 8:35 pm

Is it flipped around backwards?

rotaecho Mon Nov 07, 2016 2:58 pm

I thought it was possible, but it's not. No way it can fit flipped without it hitting the baseplate directly and having a gap between the bolt and idler.

I removed it and was looking for a VW Specific # but didn't see one. There's an INA based number in tiny #s around the inner ring.

Andrew A. Libby wrote: Is it flipped around backwards?

rotaecho Wed Nov 09, 2016 3:57 pm

Okay, I'm waiting on the IP idler, but the K14 turbo housing o-ring came in. I was able to get that back on and clocked.

I also did the oil-return line from the raised K14 with the AAZ exhaust manifold to the block; not everyones preferred method I know.

While doing the oil-return line, I went with a standard high-temp gates hose as suggested by many on the forum over an AN type hose. I'll put a protective sleeve over soon.

Here's my routing, the K14 is at the high point, and the slight curve of the hose I think would help keep it from back-flowing up.

Anyone else do a similar setup out there reading this or can confirm I'm safe with the route?






rotaecho Wed Nov 09, 2016 6:38 pm

The new IP idler pulley arrived way early! I installed it, but the lighting wasn't the best.

The belt barely hangs over the pulley lip now. I think once starting the engine the belt will move slightly over into place.

If after running moment or so and turning off engine, and the belt is still hanging over so slightly, I'll loosen the tensioner and work the belt over a bit on the pulleys. I think though it'll look good after it starts. Maybe a few manual cranks would straighten it up?



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