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Wed Nov 09, 2016 9:21 pm

Every time you have removed/replaced the pump bracket from the block, you should adjust the timing belt tracking. You do so by loosening the pump bracket mounting bolts and rotating the bracket on the block either CW (so the metal lines move DOWN and sprocket moves UP) or CCW. CW will cause the belt to track farther from the engine and CCW will cause the belt to track closer.

Thu Nov 10, 2016 10:01 am

Just so I'm on the same page, when you say "You do so by loosening the pump bracket mounting bolts"

You mean the three bolts on the main bracket as shown here:

http://www.vanagondiesel.info/index.php/Betsy_Bert...p_Mounting

If so, I'm a bit far in the conversion to be playing with that. We'll see how it tracks when I start. If after a minute running and off and same place. I'll have to revisit how to get the belt back towards the rear more on the IP.

I'll add this note to my wiki later though for others.

Andrew A. Libby wrote: Every time you have removed/replaced the pump bracket from the block, you should adjust the timing belt tracking. You do so by loosening the pump bracket mounting bolts and rotating the bracket on the block either CW (so the metal lines move DOWN and sprocket moves UP) or CCW. CW will cause the belt to track farther from the engine and CCW will cause the belt to track closer.

Thu Nov 10, 2016 10:54 am

You can rotate the crank by hand through a bunch of revolutions until the tracking remains consistent. FWIW, when you initially contacted me via e-mail regarding the order of assembly, I specifically mentioned that you should focus on getting the timing belt tracking set up properly before installing anything else in order to avoid the issue of unnecessary backtracking. My fingers are crossed for you. If it is not set correctly, it will be a lot more work to adjust after the engine is installed and running.

Thu Nov 10, 2016 10:59 am

I had a turbo oil return line set up like yours on an AAZ. even with tight, doubled hose clamps it would seep oil on the outside. Followed advice of others and got a local hydraulics shop to make me a line, no leaks or trouble at all since. was not expensive either.

Thu Nov 10, 2016 11:52 am

Andrew, you likely did, and I just forgot with everything else going on.

It is what it is.

Andrew A. Libby wrote: You can rotate the crank by hand through a bunch of revolutions until the tracking remains consistent. FWIW, when you initially contacted me via e-mail regarding the order of assembly, I specifically mentioned that you should focus on getting the timing belt tracking set up properly before installing anything else in order to avoid the issue of unnecessary backtracking. My fingers are crossed for you. If it is not set correctly, it will be a lot more work to adjust after the engine is installed and running.

Tue Jan 10, 2017 11:48 am

Okay, I've put on 70miles on the engine so far with great success.

Heading to Buses By the Bridge in a few days for first real test!

Tue Jan 10, 2017 11:52 am

How did you resolve the "seizing" issue?

Tue Jan 10, 2017 2:29 pm

One of the oil-pan bolts backed out which was near the flywheel. It backed out, fell into the bell housing, and rumbled around in there till it lodged in the starter & flywheel tooth seizing the engine.

It is also what made it feel like it as the crank that seized which in a sense it did LOL

The LUK 17-050 has a spot ground so you can reach those bolts easily. This time around I put some blue thread-tite and made sure it was tightened.

I had some help when installing the engine, and one of my friends mentioned needing to tighten those two bolts. With everything else going on, it got missed.

Super lucky SOB moment totally for sure. If it happened when going faster than 1st, it could have been a nightmare.

So far though, she's chugging awesomely :)

Zeitgeist 13 wrote: How did you resolve the "seizing" issue?

Tue Jan 10, 2017 3:56 pm

I'm glad that turned out ok, but that must've been frustrating until it was resolved.

Fri Mar 10, 2017 8:29 pm

So, just following up with this. About 2100 miles on the engine so far.

I had another oil-pan bolt issue. Using the windage tray, I had to get some M6x25 bolts to have it fit properly. I started to have some oil-seepage with the old AHU pan bolts (way to short!).

That's resolved, and updated on the wiki.

Only one minor issue so far. When driving on the highway for a good period of time with the engine warm, if coming to city traffic off the ramp the van will stall at the stop-sign. If I give it some extra fuel a bit before going fuel idle, it is usally good. If I drive for about 10min within the city it goes back to normal and idles fine at stop-signs.

When cold, and going around the city/town in 3rd for a half hour or so around 35-40mph no idle/stall what-so-ever.

Something about the going highway speeds (4th mainly) and slowing down to city traffic.

It was recommended to use some diesel purge which may help.

However, everything else has been awesome. Loving the mTDI!

Fri Mar 10, 2017 9:17 pm

What rpm is the idle speed set at?

Fri Mar 10, 2017 10:18 pm

EDIT- I didn't see the posts on the second page.

rotaecho wrote:
Here's my routing, the K14 is at the high point, and the slight curve of the hose I think would help keep it from back-flowing up.

I ended up with not the best exhaust manifold on my AHU 50* instal, and I had less fall than you do, and put 30k miles on the van with no issues, but the center section of my turbo was nearly vertical where it looks like yours is at about a 45* angle? So it's kind of an apples to oranges situation.

rotaecho wrote: Maybe a few manual cranks would straighten it up?

That would get it pretty close to where it will run once the engine starts.

Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:27 pm

Not sure yet, I'm in the process of wiring up the tachometer cluster I built.

westyventures wrote: What rpm is the idle speed set at?

Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:32 pm

rotaecho wrote: Not sure yet, I'm in the process of wiring up the tachometer cluster I built.

The 87 cluster bottom ribbon cable is hitting one of the heater cables from the heater control box. I'm going to fiddle with that tomorrow with better fitment, and see how things go.

westyventures wrote: What rpm is the idle speed set at?

Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:50 pm

Keep in mind that once the tach is functional you'll still need an optical tach to adust it. There is a small hole in the back where you can reach the adjustment with a tiny flat screwdriver. The tach is adjustable because of varying pulley sizes on the belt drive.

I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20713A-Tachometer-Non-contact-Accuracy/dp/B000I5LDVC

Sun Mar 12, 2017 4:50 pm

Thanks Karl. It may be a bit longer on the tachometer. I swapped the pins over and remapped them for the proper setup. However, only the oil-pressure sensor worked. The ribbon of the 87 cluster is pretty tore up, so it may be a goner functional, just looks nice cosmetically. I'm looking at a few options for that. So the tacho is off the table for now.

However, a different test along the same pattern of the idle stalling when the engine warm happened today.

I did a 30min errand run around town. The engine when I pulled into the driveway had oil-temps of around 220/230F and pressure around 20psi, so it was warmed up. I had no stalling issues during that 30min period.

About an hour later, I went out to move the van back about 6ft. I could not keep the van idling at all. It just kept stalling if no fuel was provided. If I kept a little fuel on it, it idled fine.

Could this relate to that fuel screw I turned for initial adjustment? I turned 2 total turns already to have it not die on me on start and has felt/seemed fine in the cold weather. I did 2k miles without much issue. It did try to stall now and then, but it was hard to place my finger on it being consistent.

It's a little warmer now, so maybe the dynamics changed a bit.

I thought you said not to turn more than two full turns, but I have been doing the adjustments at quarter turns.

After the glow-plug light goes off when the engine is cold, it fires up within an instant.

Seems like a minor adjustment somewhere.

Thanks for any advice or suggestions you may have. I'm going to give it another start later this evening when the engine cools and see how it idles.

westyventures wrote: Keep in mind that once the tach is functional you'll still need an optical tach to adust it. There is a small hole in the back where you can reach the adjustment with a tiny flat screwdriver. The tach is adjustable because of varying pulley sizes on the belt drive.

I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20713A-Tachometer-Non-contact-Accuracy/dp/B000I5LDVC

Sun Mar 12, 2017 10:43 pm

Might be worth checking that the fuel screw or idle stop screw are both tight. One or the other may have back out.

Mon Mar 13, 2017 12:30 pm

The idle screw looked pretty solid. I the nut didn't turn any. It's a bit to reach, if I'm looking at the right one.

The fuel screw though, looked different than where I remember it being. About a quarter turn off roughly. I turned it where I figured it was, and snugged the nut.

I'll keep an eye on it.

Thanks!

westyventures wrote: Might be worth checking that the fuel screw or idle stop screw are both tight. One or the other may have back out.

Mon Mar 13, 2017 1:32 pm

I may have missed it, but have you checked to see if the accelerator cable isn't too tight and/or is moving freely?

Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:33 pm

Didn't recall any issues with it on inspection previously. I'll check when light tomorrow. Since turning the fuel screw been driving fine. I haven't had a stall yet, but won't be driving much till this weekend.

I'm really digging that DMF Chris, you'll like it.

Christopher Schimke wrote: I may have missed it, but have you checked to see if the accelerator cable isn't too tight and/or is moving freely?