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Sun Nov 06, 2016 6:15 pm

Hey all, just picked up this 71 super for 3k. This is just to make a record of all the stuff we do to it and learn a little more about supers... The heart of the car is a Turbo 1915cc. I'm not sure what the wheels are? Empi 8 Spoke? No rust except for a little under the battery as usual...overall it's seems to be a pretty solid car. Any info/overall to do's would be greatly appreciated...

Sorry for dark/bad pics will get some more tomorrow...

Sun Nov 06, 2016 7:50 pm

One question have is is the turbo exhaust tuned to be shaped the way it is or can I remachine an exhaust that can come out of the decklid standoff with a rainflap, similar to the exhaust on the dung beetle from street outlaws...

Sun Nov 06, 2016 8:53 pm

It looks like you got a pretty sweet deal, me likey.

I don't know enough about turbos to answer your question. But I better learn because I'm picking up a 1535 turbo Thursday.

I'd bet the manufacturer of it has the Baja type pipes to fit it.

Sun Nov 06, 2016 10:26 pm

AngelDeVille wrote: It looks like you got a pretty sweet deal, me likey.
Yah no kidding, he said he has about 5000 into the motor, not sure how true or not that is..He originally wanted 4 but we were able to talk him down to 3000.

AngelDeVille wrote: I don't know enough about turbos to answer your question. But I better learn because I'm picking up a 1535 turbo Thursday.

I'd bet the manufacturer of it has the Baja type pipes to fit it.
I will definitely check out your thread for it if you don't already have one!

Mon Nov 07, 2016 8:51 am

You can run the exhaust how ever you want but the way it currently is routed will have a more sleeper look.

Mon Nov 07, 2016 11:20 am

I know little about turbos in an acvw. I know more about them in the heavy duty truck applications.

But I wanted to say I really like it. That may be the score of the year. Nice!

Fri Nov 25, 2016 5:49 pm

Thanks everyone for the kind words. Quick update it's been awhile finally got some decent weather to work in. So the bug wasn't starting. Figured it was the engine getting starved for fuel. We narrowed it down to the carb where there was a really small piece of casting in one the passages...got that out and readjusted the boost. It's started and ran like a top...next on the list its carb adjustment and bleed the brakes.. One thing I'm confused on is what to adjust the valves to I'm trying to get it into a shop where they can work on the car because I don't very much about carbs, any advice is appreciated. Thanks

Tue May 23, 2017 8:19 pm

Been awhile, busy building a shop etc....I've got a few questions. In the first photo there is a carbon fiber piece that relocates the carb outboard, is that something that people make themselves? I've seen a few applications where it is used but in metal (photo 2). Another question is in photo 2 is that a wastegate coming off the top most part of the intake going into the turbo? I've heard that waste gates are not needed for DT setups? I've attached a better photo of the 1915cc and I can't see this part that I'm talking about in photo2? Is that part an option for draw thru's?

Sun Jun 04, 2017 12:34 am

Anyone?

Sun Jun 04, 2017 1:54 am

I would post in the performance forum

Sun Jun 04, 2017 7:46 am

Ron Lummus Racing.

Sun Jun 04, 2017 8:32 am

https://www.google.com/search?q=draw+through+turbo...mp;bih=613

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/draw-thru-turbo.325673/

Sat Nov 18, 2017 10:41 pm

Wondering if any of you can shed some light on this. I haven't been able to get the car out on the street as I'm waiting on an O2 sensor (going with innovate). Every once and a while I'll start it up But it doesn't appear to ever hit boost when revving. I'm wondering if the wastegate actuator is going bad as it doesn't ever appear to move at any rpm? Anyone know how to test it?

Sun Nov 19, 2017 6:53 am

You can't get a wastegate to open just revving it up :lol:
It needs a LOAD ,as in driving , short shift it and floor it it will/should open :wink: maybe a paper clip on the arm ,like i test my 4 barrels or a go pro camera, have a buddy 'try' and fallow you down the street?

Sun Nov 19, 2017 7:42 am

FullFender wrote: Wondering if any of you can shed some light on this. I haven't been able to get the car out on the street as I'm waiting on an O2 sensor (going with innovate). Every once and a while I'll start it up But it doesn't appear to ever hit boost when revving. I'm wondering if the wastegate actuator is going bad as it doesn't ever appear to move at any rpm? Anyone know how to test it?

If you PM Modok or Dauz they can help you through it.

They know their turbo stuff.

Sun Nov 19, 2017 11:02 am

madmike wrote: You can't get a wastegate to open just revving it up :lol:
It needs a LOAD ,as in driving , short shift it and floor it it will/should open :wink: maybe a paper clip on the arm ,like i test my 4 barrels or a go pro camera, have a buddy 'try' and fallow you down the street?
Thanks Mike, that's where I was confused. It seemed like it would move once you hit high enough rpm to make boost, I appreciate it.

clonebug wrote: If you PM Modok or Dauz they can help you through it.

They know their turbo stuff.
Sounds good, I'll give them a try

Fri Dec 22, 2017 5:22 pm

Was able to install my Innovate today to see where I'm at o2 wise.
Running a Holley 500 2 Barrell with 66's (jetting). It idles around 11.2:1 and at 3000rpm it is at 10.0:1 so I'm thinking I'm gonna go down 1 jet size to lean it out since isn't the ideal to be around 13-14:1? It tends to load up after idling for a bit.

Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:39 am

My engine whether it was carbed or fuel injected has always seemed to prefer somewhere between 12.8-13.2:1 at idle. Sure...you can go leaner but it just seemed to give issues somewhere else.

Cruise could be anywhere from 13.5-17.0:1 and even higher some suggest.

I prefer 14.1-15.5 at cruise when driving around locally which is 80% of my driving.
On a turbo engine your cruise to WOT is a small window and happens quite quickly if your turbo is sized correctly and responds well.
In order for my engine to get to 100 kpa...... which for you carb guys is WOT....I only need to give it 1/3 to 1/2 throttle and the turbo is helping it along already at anything over about 2000-2400 rpm.
That is what makes a turbo so nice is the mid range torque you gain by it pushing air at lower throttle settings.

You need to tune it somewhat by feel along with the O2 sensor. Go with what feels right and if you get a small lean or rich peak somewhere and you can't feel it just drive it for a while to see if it affects something in your driving style.

You have to remember that you no longer have a commuter engine....you now have a performance engine and have to tune it to be safe first.
Don't lean it way out and take a chance on breaking something.

You can set your idle the same way you did without a turbo.........Best Lean Idle.....watch your vacuum and rpm to get the highest then adjust idle down to where you want it.
I usually leave my idle at about 900-1100 rpm just because I like it there.

Set your cruise around 14.1-15.5 for now and see how it runs.
I myself have tried as high as 17.0:1 and I just didn't like how it ran. The lower numbers get me 26-30 mpg depending on how far my foot goes down and how fast I cruise. 60-65 gives the best mpg.

WOT you should be around 12.5:1 and lower. I wouldn't go any leaner than that until you see how it runs and keep a sharp ear out for detonation......depending on what your boost target is.

Looks to me like that is an A.J. Simms kit but I could be wrong.

Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:23 pm

Got the air fuel screw adjusted on the carb to more of where it should be. Started it and it seemed to idle a lot better even when cold. Then I got an error reading on my Innovate *facepalm*. The manual tells me it's either over-heating, over-cooled or just a bad sensor altogether. I don't believe it's to hot because it was during idle minutes after startup. I think im getting an error do to it being 40 degrees and even colder in my garage. Then as I'm attempting to recalibrate the sensor my exhaust moves a bit after loosening the v-band and I see a small leak coming from a pinhole in the bung welds! *even bigger facepalm* I'm hoping to have the bung fixed and I'll attempt to start it on a warm day with less condensation in the exhaust before replacing the mother f'in sensor. ](*,) Fingers crossed. And yes it is an AJ kit.

Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:59 pm

FullFender wrote: Got the air fuel screw adjusted on the carb to more of where it should be. Started it and it seemed to idle a lot better even when cold. Then I got an error reading on my Innovate *facepalm*. The manual tells me it's either over-heating, over-cooled or just a bad sensor altogether. I don't believe it's to hot because it was during idle minutes after startup. I think im getting an error do to it being 40 degrees and even colder in my garage. Then as I'm attempting to recalibrate the sensor my exhaust moves a bit after loosening the v-band and I see a small leak coming from a pinhole in the bung welds! *even bigger facepalm* I'm hoping to have the bung fixed and I'll attempt to start it on a warm day with less condensation in the exhaust before replacing the mother f'in sensor. ](*,) Fingers crossed. And yes it is an AJ kit.

I have had issues with an Innovate O2 Sensor but others use them.

I prefer the PLX brand of O2 sensor. I have 3.5 yrs on mine without an issue and I never have to calibrate it. This is still with the Ver. 4.2 O2 sensor. They now have a Ver. 4.9 that is better.
I leave it on all the time since I sometimes run EGO which means my EFI ECU will adjust the AFR's to the Target AFR table I have set.
I also have the gauge on my dash where I can monitor it if I want.
It's been a really dependable setup........