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Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:06 pm

Starter looking this over,hoping to have it running and installed for next season,it came in Ethel and I never heard it running,po said he ran it for the first year that he owned it which was about 6 years ago and when I got it he had been trying to start it,said it may be a carb problem.
It has heads from a 79 on it and had a center mount carb.The parts bus I have came with a set solex dual carbs,manifolds,cis pipe and throttle linkage.So now I'm going to piece it all together and see what I need.

Tue Dec 20, 2016 12:20 pm

Took the heat exchanges apart,sand blasted them and gave them a coat of hi heat paint,they where a mess filled with dry crusty oil,I disposed of the insulation that was in them and will probably use some thermal zero stuff as samba member Clatter used [loved his junk build on stf,will be revisiting it often].I have some welding to do on the covers,the metal in the covers is very stiff was hard bending back the crimp to get them apart probably be hard to weld also.

Checked crank end play, .008 thousands and removed the clutch and flywheel and seal,did not see any bearing movement,but will read up some more on checking it to be sure.hoping to just set end play with shims.don't want to open the case at this time.

MY clutch disc is worn down,just started to wear the rivets on one side of the disc,I'll have to get another disc,priced a new clutch kit,disc,PP and throw out bearing less then $250.so that's the route I'll probably take.

Tue Dec 20, 2016 12:51 pm

Won't the high heat paint bake off and smell bad?

Tue Dec 20, 2016 1:43 pm

The paint is advertized to 1200F degrees,and needs 400 degrees to fully cure,I painted my buggy exhaust with it and ran it this summer with no burn off,so I don't think there will be any problem.time will tell.I have painted other things with it and put it in a 400 degree oven and it was ok,[wife was at work when i used her oven,safety first.

Tue Dec 20, 2016 8:34 pm

Lets hope it works out well for sure that aluminum heat exchanger can use the paint to protect it from oxidation. Looks nice.

Tue Dec 20, 2016 8:53 pm

Thanks,I didn't paint the aluminum,just cleaned it in the blaster,The outer jacket should not get any hotter then the air passing thru it and if that get to 400 degrees then I have worst problems then the smell of paint.
Was happy to see that the strainer bolt was tight,think that means that the case is not cracked.then the small cover looks like trouble it was leaking around the sender,which was floppy loose but i think it was sealed around the case.

Tue Dec 20, 2016 8:58 pm

Perfect! Yeah, Cleaned up nice.

Wed Mar 01, 2017 6:50 pm

Did a bit of playing with the heat exchanger,it had a bit or rust at the usual places and needed the innards cleaned up.I got the cracks welded up and replaced the rusted areas.I used sticky heat shield and dollar store aluminum trays to replace the innards.A few tack welds and a coat of paint and I'll call this one done.Had a bit of a fight getting it to snap together,I'll leave the welding clamp on until i get a tack on it.

Wed Mar 01, 2017 9:30 pm

I wonder how close the 79 heat exchanger (piping and fins) less the outer tin is to the 80-82 Vanagon item.

Wed Mar 08, 2017 1:49 pm

Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:31 am

Very nice! Keep going!

Wed Apr 05, 2017 2:20 pm

Got my tins repaired and painted,made a fuel pump block off plate and now starting to put it back together,when putting the cooling flaps on the right side don't seem to close properly,it's hitting the little nob and don't close all the way,I can't move it to the left because of the way it fits in the plastic bushings is this the way it should be or do I have to shorten the rod by bending it at the double bends that are in the rod.

Nelson

Wed Apr 05, 2017 2:47 pm

lil-jinx wrote: Got my tins repaired and painted,made a fuel pump block off plate and now starting to put it back together

Make sure you find a way to leave the fuel pump push-rod in the engine, even if it means shortening it a cm or so to clear the block-off plate. There is an oil passage that is blocked by the rod that will lose precious oil pressure if you remove the rod permanently.

Good luck!
Robbie

Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:41 pm

The rod was missing from this engine,had a electric pump, the mechanical pump was left in place with the rod removed,I had another case with the rod shortened so i use that,I gave it a few taps where in enters the guide to flatten it a little so it would not go in against the cam and just lightly tapped it in so it won't move around.
The plastic spacer was split on the pump,just one of many leaks that I'm hoping to fix.
Thanks:Nelson

Thu Apr 06, 2017 8:18 am

Found the answer to to right flap,it is not supposed to close completely the little nod holds it open a little.

Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:23 am

Keep playing around, this well tell me how I SHOULD have done my motor rebuild :lol:

Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:29 am

When putting that flywheel back on, don't forget the special graphite-impregnated O-ring on the inner side of the flywheel, and be sure to use new flywheel bolts and new special 5-hole washer.

Wed Apr 19, 2017 10:29 am

This is any thing but a rebuild,more like a training engine,It has .007 crank end play,of which .003 is in the thrust bearing,there are fins broken off the heads and cylinders,the PO had installed a set of 79 heads,pretty sure that nothing was measured or checked at that time,It had a single progressive carb,I am installing dual carbs that was in my parts bus.I have another good case which I may rebuild,but for now what I have will do,[if it runs]
I replaced the front and read seals,new fly wheel o-ring and pulley hub o-ring push rod tubes and cooler seals,plus gaskets.It was covered with oil when I got it.
New fly wheel o-ring and washer,I reused the old bolts,and torqued them.I am trying to get it running so I can move it around,maybe some limited use.

Thu Apr 20, 2017 7:54 am

Fuel pump wiring
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1249586.jpg

I got this from another post,Thanks Danwvw,it is wiring for an electric fuel pump,I read it as the pump gets power from the starter when starter is cranking and power from alt D+, when engine is running and alternator is charging,closes relay circuit to provide power to the pump.When engine quits the alt stops charging and the pump stops pumping.Correct me if that's wrong.

Thu May 11, 2017 11:08 am

Got the engine running,first time I seen it run,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQwcr5R8GAU&t=4s[url][/url]