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Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:54 am

Hi all Ghia lovers and experts, after 9 years of leaving my 71 convertible at a restoration shop, (been deployed around the world looking for bad guys), for a full body off restoration, I have finally dragged my gem home to begin the reassembly. A lot of body work was done between 2 Ghia's, both having various amounts of rot. My original 71 pan was used and various parts scarfed and hacked from the body, and placed on the second one I bought from an older woman who was the original owner (she gave me all the original books purchase documents and service invoices-yes these ladies do still exist), so the body is pieced from both cars and new sheet metal. I have hundreds of pics from the resto shop but not going to post here. So after many years away, we are reunited and I am going through cleaning parts for reassembly. Looking for a good paint shop once I get the color number I want. With that, I have forgotten a lot of things and will have lots of questions for all of you to help guide me putting this puzzle back together. I have read through many of the forums and restoration threads on here so decided to try making my own. I look forward to the assistance and recommendations from everyone, I have a clean slate!

These are the first pics, will add better shots later:

Ok, need some help on a couple of things, can you tell me where these go if you have a reference pic feel free to post..found in the Samba Gallery

And I have these tubes, I think they go from the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder, but which? Do I have two sets or do they all go somewhere? I noted a double tube guide under where the gas tank sets and think they route through there. Little help?

Will post more questions below! Thanks again.

Mon Dec 12, 2016 8:34 am

Ok, here are a bunch of questions off the top of my head:
1. On the tunnel where my e-brake and heater handles are, looking into the tunnel I see two small down tubes right next to the drivers seat, any clue what these are? Cables are already connected to heat handles and running out the back.

2. Where the heat tubes split off under the back seat, what kind of material do I wrap and zip tie here, anything specific?

3. Is the Fuel Filler neck seal the thing that holds the filler tube in place under the fuel door? Besides the other tubes and clamps, is the seal the only thing that holds it in place?

4. I plan to place the battery under the back passenger seat, do I need to punch a hole from inside to run cable to starter? Also, where would you recommend running and connecting the negative ground cable? When in the engine compartment it is always attached to the engine block.

5. There are several body seams internally I need to caulk and seal up, what type of Seam Sealer is recommended? I see my resto guy already has it in many places throughout, and still awaiting his answer on what he used, but looking for other expertise.

And lastly...for now at least,
Since I am not restoring back to stock, rather mild custom. some things I am thinking about:
I already have a Bernie Bergmann built 2332cc motor with the full flow oil cooling system..Will have questions later re install.

I have a KCR built transmission combo street/freeway flyer to match the engine performance.

I plan to cover the dash pad to match the interior. Since I don't plan to have a speaker in that spot, what recommendations for covering? Should I just cut and paint a piece of sheet metal and screw into place? maybe edge with a little caulking so no air blows through?

The original antenna hole was welded up. Since I plan to install a radio with Satellite (Sirius/XM) I was thinking of mounting an updated digital antenna, perhaps similar to that on my Passat, that would pick up standard and satellite radio without having to run a separate Sat only antenna. I was thinking of mounting it on the rear between the lower edge of the top mount and the engine cover cooling fins, painted to match car. Any thoughts or should I go back to mounting stock antenna...I know what you purists want and I respect that, but looking at keeping the front clean. Has anyone tried this type of antenna? if so, attach a pic.

Ok, too many questions already...will have more later...probably in an hour or so!! :?

Mon Dec 12, 2016 10:39 am

Those pieces in the 4th photo from the top are windlaces.

You can read more here.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212033

Good luck with your restoration.

Mon Dec 12, 2016 11:05 am

Thanks Kiwi, I thought that's where they went but couldn't remember. Those pictures helped a lot in the thread. Cheers

Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:10 pm

Welcome.

I don't have any direct answers for your questions but I have two thoughts/comments.

1) You wont' be needing that box of antifreeze in the luggage compartment :lol: (Hides in shame if box of "Peak" was somet other Peak product)

2) If you go with the antenna in the rear cowl area you may want to combine it with a third brake light since you will be making a hole anyway. I don't have a cleaver way to combine the two but "SoCalJes" is the master of outside the box thinking. He will be along shortly with a brilliant suggestion.

Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:50 pm

Nice!! Thanks Fiz, I was thinking about the third brake light set up as well, and noticed someone in another restoration forum had added an LED strip light in the cowling, which looked pretty cool. I have read through your entire thread on your resto of the KRAKKEN and actually saved some of your pics prior to tear down to use for reference purposes. I have a couple questions and will PM you regarding some things. Thanks again and look forward to hearing anything SoCalJes has to say!

Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:56 pm

1. Pics would help. A guess, Guides for controlling heater flap under the door.
2. Mine had a plastic distribution tube and there was thin film to help seal. Different years used different set ups. Do you have the good manual?

3.90%, yes, neck gasket holds neck in place.
4. yes, hole plus room for a grommet to protect cable. I ground on a pan bolt under the seat.

5.seam sealer is a preference thing. They all work pretty good. Some people like a brush on product others the tube delivery stuff.

You stopped numbering, :cry:
Are you planning to use a dash top cover or bare metal?
Antennas were dealer mounted. Your idea seems like a good spot for your build.
More pics :)

Mon Dec 12, 2016 2:04 pm

Thanks Darrel, I've enjoyed reading through your entire build. Will be adding more pics to back up my questions. Roger that on all your responses. I see you have the Dry Cell Battery, I think this is safest if mounting under seat

I am planning to add back my original dash cap and cover with material, wanting to use the "French Stitch" design I believe you used as well.
Thanks!

Mon Dec 12, 2016 2:25 pm

Thanks!
If you are covering the dash you really dont have to do anything to the speaker hole. My original dash cap was pretty rough so the fiberglass repop worked well for me and much more simple to mount.
Dry cell works good, its small so it fits, no fumes or gases...win/win.

Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:48 pm

The y-pipe holes were wrapped with a long haired fiberglass matt and secured with fancy zip ties. Seam sealer also comes in tape form if that is easier. Personally I use the caulk-gun type and run a finger or brush over it as needed. I put mine on just before painting so that I don't have to sand it . You may want to leave that up to your painter.

Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:24 pm

kman wrote: ... Personally I use the caulk-gun type and run a finger or brush over it as needed. I put mine on just before painting so that I don't have to sand it . You may want to leave that up to your painter.

Watch out for that painter guy. Mine made me seamseal every crack and seam under the body (it was a body-off resto) and it took 2 days of crawling around under the car. Every time I thought I was done, he'd point out another seam. The good news is that I know water - then rust - is not going to get in there. Ever.

Same procedure as kman - caulk gun, then fingers.

Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:45 pm

kiwighia68 wrote: Watch out for that painter guy. Mine made me seamseal every crack and seam under the body (it was a body-off resto) and it took 2 days of crawling around under the car. Every time I thought I was done, he'd point out another seam. The good news is that I know water - then rust - is not going to get in there. Ever.

Same procedure as kman - caulk gun, then fingers. .

Thanks guys re the caulking....any specific brand? Like I said previously, my resto guy did quite a bit, but told me more needs to be done, engine compartment and other areas I have found around the front area, nose and fenders. I was planning on doing the rest myself when it gets close to me finding and choosing the right painter, so it's fairly fresh. The whole body is first primer coated with PPG K36, so it still needs to be block sanded, primered, final prime, then painted. I want to save as much money as I can labor wise, so will do the seam sealer myself, so I can spend more $$ on the direct prep and paint for a sweet job.

Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:06 am

3M 08505. Though I have used other urethane seam sealers with no trouble.

Tue Dec 13, 2016 2:00 am

First, thank you for your 9 years of service and chasing down the bad guys. The least we can do is help with your car!

rbsurfguy wrote: 2. Where the heat tubes split off under the back seat, what kind of material do I wrap and zip tie here, anything specific?

I asked a similar question here in my thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7763722#7763722 so a few of the subsequent posts may get you going.

Tue Dec 13, 2016 4:35 am

Thanks KMan and J1, 3M was one of the sealants I was looking at. From what I see in the seams already, it looks like a gray color and appears hardened but flexible. I'll check J1's thread.

Tue Dec 13, 2016 8:09 am

Since the pipes under the back seat are just heat routing areas, the temperature is not going to be extreme. I'll just use some heat insulation wrap used to insulate heater pipes and water heaters and wrap with good metal ducting tape. Should work fine.

Tue Dec 13, 2016 11:01 am

Can anyone tell me how I measure front disc spindles to tell if they are lowered or not? Top to bottom of the plate? Any ideas?

Tue Dec 13, 2016 11:09 am

rbsurfguy wrote: Since the pipes under the back seat are just heat routing areas, the temperature is not going to be extreme. I'll just use some heat insulation wrap used to insulate heater pipes and water heaters and wrap with good metal ducting tape. Should work fine.

Ha! This is my Eureka moment. I've been wondering why my car was so noisy after all the sound deadening I installed. Now I know. The engine noise comes in through those heating tubes. First job when I get my car back today.

We learn from each other's struggles.

Tue Dec 13, 2016 11:12 am

In follow up to a previous question, I was wondering about the small tubes in the tunnel, to the left and right of the E-Brake. See pic. Is one or both sides used for the heater cable to the rear heater boxes and the interior heat flaps, under back seat? Which one, top or bottom, for which cable? Thanks.

Tue Dec 13, 2016 11:16 am

kiwighia68 wrote: rbsurfguy wrote: Since the pipes under the back seat are just heat routing areas, the temperature is not going to be extreme. I'll just use some heat insulation wrap used to insulate heater pipes and water heaters and wrap with good metal ducting tape. Should work fine.

Ha! This is my Eureka moment. I've been wondering why my car was so noisy after all the sound deadening I installed. Now I know. The engine noise comes in through those heating tubes. First job when I get my car back today.

We learn from each other's struggles.

Thanks Kiwi, glad I could finally help and not just only ask a bunch of questions. Post pics when you get in there please!