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Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:30 pm

I think I'm guilty of starting too many individual threads for small projects/updates... will just post everything under this one now.

Anyhoo... wanted to go through the buggy to ID all the components for future repairs/part ordering. Only thing I am not 100% on is which heads are installed. There is a casting stamp showing 043-101-355C, it has double springs... but that's all I know.

Here's what I got so far:

- Joe Poty Sand Rover T Bug Pickup body
- 1970 VW Beetle rear end
- Custom frame and roll cage
- Aluminum floor pan
- 2095cc stroker motor (July 2014)
- 8.5 to 1 compression ratio
- VW AS41 dual relief case (#043-101-101/2A)
- Scat 78mm chromoly balanced crank
- 8 dowel flywheel
- 5.4 H beam VW connecting rods
- Mahle 92mm forged pistons
- Engle W110 camshaft
- Heads??? (Stamped 043-101-355C)
- Dual valve springs
- Solid rocker shaft kit
- Dual EMPI HPMX 44 Carburetors
- Webber 34 venturis
- F11 emulsion tubes
- Webber 55 idle jets, 135 main jets, 200 air jets
- Pertronix Flame-Thrower distributer (#D1866)
- Pertronix Ignitor I electronic ignition
- NGK copper spark plug wires
- NGK spark plugs (#D6EA)
- Bosch blue 12V coil
- Trimil 1 5/8" sidewinder exhaust
- Flowmaster Super HP-2 muffler
- Holley fuel pressure regulator (#12-804)
- Bocar mechanical fuel pump
- Facet electric fuel pump (#127200)
- Bosch 12V generator (#101 302 111)
- Jamar super shifter (#JS3X)
- Rancho pro comp IRS transaxle (Casting #113301103, Serial #9761150)
- Super diff
- Welded 3- 4 hubs
- Close 3rd and 4th gears
- Hardened keys
- Aluminum side cover
- 4.37 R/P
- 380-206-148-104 gear ratios
- T2 bus CV joints
- 3x3 trailing arms
- Chromoly Axles and boots
- Rear Sway-A-Way RaceRunner 2.0 series remote reservoir shocks (#SAW-52000-114)
- Eibach double spring system coilovers (Upper #1400.250.0300S, lower #1400.250.0350S)
- 4 wheel AC industries disc brakes (Fronts pads #D158 from So-Cal imports)
- BTR 15" wheels
- Toyo Open Country AT II tires (Front - 215/75/R15 Rear - 265/75/R15)
- Custom 20+ gallon gas tank
- Optima yellow top battery (#51R)
- Badland Winches 3500# ATV winch with remote
- 7 pin connector for towing
- Grant quick connect steering wheel
- Axia Alloys 17" rear view mirror
- Classic Bug Parts X-Cellerator speed wheel fuel pedal
- Custom aluminum dash
- Speedhut GPS speedo, tach, oil temp, oil pressure gauges.

Any issues you buggy vets see that I should change/upgrade?

Cheers,
CWAT

Sat Mar 04, 2017 8:34 pm

New emblem time!

Thanks again to Rob (member manxbuggy) for sending me the SandRover emblem.

Sorry to the purist VW enthusiasts out there, but I had to hack up an emblem for this project. Here it is after the dremel and files had their way.

I filled the VW channels with some JB weld to prevent water/dirt from collecting, then sanded it back into shape and hit it with some plastidip. The SandRover emblem just needed some toothpaste, , a rag, a little time, and a few shots of clear coat. Really happy with how it turned out, very clean and shiny.

Now to mount it...

Tue Mar 07, 2017 2:28 pm

Cwat1982,

Not sure if I have mentioned to you before but I really like your buggy and what changes you have been made! great work. Even though styles differ (your offroad vs my Street) I too have a sand rover T bug and like to see more of them on the road. Keep up the great work!

Also, congrats on the emblem! That turned out pretty cool! I have been searching for years for one and have come up empty.. SO if you ever decide to sell it or find another please let me know... I have been thinking of having one made via 3d printer but would rather have an OG..

anyway Looking forward to seeing more updates in the future!

Tue Mar 07, 2017 4:32 pm

cwat1982 wrote: -2110cc stroker motor (July 2014)
- 8.5 to 1 compression ratio
- VW AS41 dual relief case (#043-101-101/2A)
- Scat 78mm chromoly balanced crank
- 8 dowel flywheel
- 5.4 H beam VW connecting rods
- Mahle 92mm forged pistons

FYI

78X92 = 2074cc Scat makes a 78.8mm crank which would make the engine a 2095cc

Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:54 pm

Sounds good bpritchert87, can't see myself selling the one I have, but if I come across another one I will grab it for you.

Thanks Dave, appreciate the info!

Wed Mar 22, 2017 5:18 pm

Mounted, love it!

Wed Mar 22, 2017 10:51 pm

Nice job on the emblem, looks sharp.

Wed May 03, 2017 9:40 am

Next project, wanted to get rid of the portable remote that came with the garage door opener and install a permanent/cleaner switch in the buggy.

Bought a overhead module from a 2008 GMC Envoy for $15.00, removed the Homelink garage door opener and scrapped the rest.

Never played with a circuit board before, but what's the worst that could happen... removed the center button and hooked up to a battery then used a wire to test where to install my new wires. Watched some YouTube videos on how to solder a circuit board and gave her a shot. Drilled a hole to run the wire through, and used glue gun once done to give some more stability.

Cut off the original tabs from the box, and the center pole of the button cover then glued the button cover in place. I kept the button cover to use for the outside buttons as they are required for resetting/programming the opener.

Going to use Velcro tape to mount it under the dash, and waiting for delivery on a throw switch that matches the ones used on my dash to finish it off. Already know where I'm going to install it, now just checking tracking numbers three times a day and waiting.

Cheers,
CWAT

Wed May 03, 2017 2:41 pm

Nice. Been in the business for many years, first time I have seen somebody morphidite a home link transmitter. some advice for others. Genuine home link has a outline of a house near the led. If not, it may be a Lear car to u universal remote control, They are almost as hard to program as it is to say it. Also pre 2012 home link is spotty on working with the latest openers, like my q or security plus 2.0. If you feel a need, here is home links phone so compatibility can be checked 800 355 3515.

Wed May 17, 2017 11:43 am

Thanks cbeck!

This one was a genuine Homelink which worked out great, I printed the relevant pages from the GMC Envoy owners manual and have a nice little operators manual for the remote now. I have a newer garage door opener with learn button and had no problem programming.

The switch finally arrived, and I finished installing the remote. Put the switch just below where my thumb hangs when my arm is resting on the sidewall. Brought the wire back in after it cleared the dash and mounted the remote next to the fuse box.

Going to spray the back of the switch/wire with truck box liner to add some protection and finish it off.

Cheers,
Chad

Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:49 am

I have been poking around for awhile now to find a shop to finish off the gremlins that were beyond my comfort level. The only leftovers from the engine failure when I originally purchased the buggy and had the engine failure during the 950 mile drive home were the 3 rounded valve tips causing valve lash issues, and would not accept lash caps.

There are no ACVW shops up here, and haven't heard any great reviews for shops in Edmonton. We had an upcoming vacation to Kelowna and Vancouver so started digging for shops on the route and found one with good reviews in Vernon.

Tried to borrow a trailer for the trip with no luck, but was lucky to find a towbar for sale and picked it up for $250 a couple of days before the trip. The buggy was already wired for towing, and was built with towbar receivers, and safety chain anchors so it was a match made in heaven. The buggy towed like a dream.

Once we arrived in Vernon I dropped the buggy off at Partly Dave's Neighborhood Garage. Dave's been in the ACVW business since 1982, loved the old school vibe, they were fantastic and exactly the type of shop I was looking for. Instead of changing out the 3 damaged valves they found there was still enough clearance over the spring retainers to grind the stems back to flat. Great fix that saved me a lot as well. Threw in lash caps, and elephant feet adjusters, then dialed everything in. After every interaction with Dave it felt like he legitimately cared about the customers and wanted to do what he could to help you out. If you're in the area, highly recommended!

Dragged the buggy back home and she finally runs great, more time making the daughters smile, and less time in the garage.

Cheers,
CWAT

Wed Aug 02, 2017 1:05 pm

cwat1982
i'm not an 'expert' by any stretch of the imagination but i'm curious...why 2 fuel pumps?
bocar mechanical and facet electric?
edit. Oh and nice buggy!
tony

Wed Aug 02, 2017 4:35 pm

Thanks Laxkraap, the builder told me he used the electric after the buggy had been parked for awhile to give more "umph" to the carbs. I've never had to use it to start the car, came in handy once when I used it to drain down the gas tank.

Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:10 am

where can I buy that emblem??

cwat1982 wrote: New emblem time!

Thanks again to Rob (member manxbuggy) for sending me the SandRover emblem.

Sorry to the purist VW enthusiasts out there, but I had to hack up an emblem for this project. Here it is after the dremel and files had their way.

I filled the VW channels with some JB weld to prevent water/dirt from collecting, then sanded it back into shape and hit it with some plastidip. The SandRover emblem just needed some toothpaste, , a rag, a little time, and a few shots of clear coat. Really happy with how it turned out, very clean and shiny.

Now to mount it...

Fri Oct 27, 2017 6:26 pm

Hi karmann1st,

I was very lucky to have one passed on to me... I have never seen another for sale. Good luck in the hunt.

Cheers,
CWAT

Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:25 am

cwat1982 wrote: Hi karmann1st,

I was very lucky to have one passed on to me... I have never seen another for sale. Good luck in the hunt.

Cheers,
CWAT

thank you!!!!!

Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:06 am

Well... I am feeling fed up with carbs... I have to play with the pedal for a couple minutes to get it started if it's been sitting, then have to sit there for a few more minutes with little revs when required to keep it running until it's warmed up and idles comfortably. Then once driving I get the odd backfire out the carb, and the odd backfire out the exhaust...

I tried, but don't have enough skills with the engine/tuning to make this thing not feel like a nuisance at times. Thinking going fuel injected might be the answer, wondering if there are folks in the forum who have gone this route and can offer some advice.

Details of my engine setup are at the top of this thread, and was thinking of going after CB Performances EFI kit. Checking classifieds here I came across this one as well.

The second hand one is a little on the big side but being EFI I'm sure could be tuned, also looks like it has higher end components and some extras (ie. crank trigger).

Any thoughts?? Really want to get the buggy where I turn the key, and we are off for some fun.

Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:39 am

cwat1982 wrote: Well... I am feeling fed up with carbs... I have to play with the pedal for a couple minutes to get it started if it's been sitting, then have to sit there for a few more minutes with little revs when required to keep it running until it's warmed up and idles comfortably. Then once driving I get the odd backfire out the carb, and the odd backfire out the exhaust...

I tried, but don't have enough skills with the engine/tuning to make this thing not feel like a nuisance at times. Thinking going fuel injected might be the answer, wondering if there are folks in the forum who have gone this route and can offer some advice.

Details of my engine setup are at the top of this thread, and was thinking of going after CB Performances EFI kit. Checking classifieds here I came across this one as well.

The second hand one is a little on the big side but being EFI I'm sure could be tuned, also looks like it has higher end components and some extras (ie. crank trigger).

Any thoughts?? Really want to get the buggy where I turn the key, and we are off for some fun.

Throttle bodies are way to big... Something in 36 to 40 mm is plenty....

You need to be asking in performance section on samba or at...

https://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=23&sid=eaf8e71f5204e8a38f9e65f542984138

Dale

Thu Feb 06, 2020 8:08 pm

Nice looking buggy. I am new to the twin Weber/EMPI carbs. It will be interesting to see you're solution. One thing comes to mind. The shop I bought my engine from told me to remove the idle jets and make sure they are clean.

Did you ask the guy who repaired you're engine before?

Good luck

Frank

Sat Feb 08, 2020 6:32 am

Check for slop in the rod ends of the carb linkage. That's the crappy part of the empi linkage. If they are all sloppy buy the cb linkage kit or just do yourself a favor and buy the whole crossbar kit from cb with the carb mounts and all.

I'm currently installing a GEN4 EFI system on my race car. So far it's been good, though haven't fired it up yet.

brad