TheSamba.com :: View topic - Problem With Fuel Pump Not Pumping Fuel Gets Much Bigger

Mon Mar 27, 2017 8:39 am

Hi,

I was having problems where the fuel pump on my 67 bug was not pumping any fuel so I replaced the pump only to find out that the fuel pump block (bakelite) was jammed inside the case. I was able to finally remove it, but saw that somebody had sealed it to the case and that it was broken midway. I was able to get a tap and remove the broken pieces, but in doing this I removed the distributor so I could look for any leftover broken bakelite pieces. Stupidly while doing this I moved the engine with the 21mm to look for more pieces, but I think I screwed up the distributor because it no longer goes back in all the way or locks in securely. When I was originally looking for the broken bakelite pieces something looked weird - the brass gears on the distributor drive shaft didn't look clean, maybe chewed up a bit. I thought it was the bakelite pieces, but I now think the gears may have been messed up. I'm guessing that I should now remove the distributor drive gear (never done this before) and inspect it. I was wondering, can you remove/replace the distributor drive gear and brass gears, etc. with the engine still in the car? I hope so. Any chance that all of this could have damaged the engine or the camshaft in any way? Thanks for any help on what you all would recommend doing to fix this.

- Joseph

Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:45 am

Sometimes when the crankshaft is moved with the distributor removed the distributor drive gear is pushed up out of position and needs to be reseated.

Sounds like you may have removed the drive gear entirely which =means it needs to be reseated. You may not have meshed the gears when you reinstalled it which means the distributor will not seat fully or turn with the engine.

I'm confused when you say that you have looked at what might be damaged brass drive gears but you also state that you have never removed the distributor drive. If its an older unrestored engine there might be some wear visible on the brass gear but damage would be abnormal. Replacement of the brass gear necessitates engine tear down as it is installed on the crankshaft.

The distributor drive gear can be removed with the engine still in the car. Yes, the bakelite can cause some internal damage and eventually block oil passages.

Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:57 am

Hi tasb,

Thanks for your reply. I "think" that I may have seen some brass colored gears when I looked through the hole where the fuel pump was. Not sure if it was bakelite pieces that were mixed in the gears I was seeing or if something was really wrong with the gears - very hard to see for sure. If the drive gear got pushed up that's maybe why the fuel pump flange got chopped up around the bottom?

So do you recommend that I remove the distributor drive gear and inspect, and then replace if it looks okay or replace the gear and then re-insert it? I will of course have to replace the fuel pump bakelite flange (think they're now plastic). Just don't want to destroy anything and trying my best to not have to remove the engine and crack the case as I'd have to do all this with the car parked in the street (since car won't start/move & too hard to push uphill into my driveway). Thank you.

- Joseph

tasb wrote: Sometimes when the crankshaft is moved with the distributor removed the distributor drive gear is pushed up out of position and needs to be reseated.

Sounds like you may have removed the drive gear entirely which =means it needs to be reseated. You may not have meshed the gears when you reinstalled it which means the distributor will not seat fully or turn with the engine.

I'm confused when you say that you have looked at what might be damaged brass drive gears but you also state that you have never removed the distributor drive. If its an older unrestored engine there might be some wear visible on the brass gear but damage would be abnormal. Replacement of the brass gear necessitates engine tear down as it is installed on the crankshaft.

The distributor drive gear can be removed with the engine still in the car. Yes, the bakelite can cause some internal damage and eventually block oil passages.

Mon Mar 27, 2017 6:44 pm

First, you can slip a screwdriver down the distributor hole. See how deep till you hit the gear and check that on your distributor. If it looks like the gear moved up, gently push down while jiggling the crank pulley with your wrench and see if it will seat itself.

Unless you removed your distributor clamp, the distributor should just go in once you rotate the rotor so the slots line up.

Tue Mar 28, 2017 10:27 am

Great idea, I will try that. If it works then it will save some $ on having to purchase a distributor drive gear puller. Thanks, I'll let you know how it works.

andk5591 wrote: First, you can slip a screwdriver down the distributor hole. See how deep till you hit the gear and check that on your distributor. If it looks like the gear moved up, gently push down while jiggling the crank pulley with your wrench and see if it will seat itself.

Unless you removed your distributor clamp, the distributor should just go in once you rotate the rotor so the slots line up.

Tue Mar 28, 2017 12:24 pm

josephgut - you should list your city and state in your member profile so it shows up under your name on the left. Maybe some member near you has this tool and could help you out.

Tue Mar 28, 2017 5:26 pm

andk5591, Do you mean to push in on one of the two ridges where the distributor locks in, or do you mean go through the hole where the little spring is and push down in there? I tried push down on one of the two ridges while turning the pulley and no movement at all.

andk5591 wrote: First, you can slip a screwdriver down the distributor hole. See how deep till you hit the gear and check that on your distributor. If it looks like the gear moved up, gently push down while jiggling the crank pulley with your wrench and see if it will seat itself.

Unless you removed your distributor clamp, the distributor should just go in once you rotate the rotor so the slots line up.

Tue Mar 28, 2017 7:19 pm

It's also possible one of the two drive shims has slipped and the end of the drive shaft cannot be seated until those are back in place and lined up. Use a flashlight and have a look through the fuel pump hole (with the flange removed).

Tue Mar 28, 2017 7:22 pm

Hi nlorntson,

I tried that, but could only see the gears below. I think I'm going to have to get the distributor drive gear puller and remove it and see exactly what's there. Hopefully that will get to the root problem.

Thanks,
Joseph

nlorntson wrote: It's also possible one of the two drive shims has slipped and the end of the drive shaft cannot be seated until those are back in place and lined up. Use a flashlight and have a look through the fuel pump hole (with the flange removed).