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Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:29 pm

Anyone ever had a flywheel seal that wasn't "tight" ?

I can literally put mine in with light pressure by my fingers and even rotate it if I try.

Is there a solution, other than the trash can?

Yes, we've tried multiple seals. Yes, the case has been line bored, but there is zero visual indication of wear or machining on the seal surface.

Any help appreciated.

Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:39 pm

usually it gets tighter in used engines. Can you measure the diameter?

Seals with rubber coated exterior.....you can't really glue those.
Possibly silicone, but silicone isn't very strong. I'd rather use a soda can shim.

Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:40 pm

Something is not right....

If you tried multiple seals and all are loose, are they different brands?

Get the red Elring seal. If that doesn't fit then it's your case.

Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:49 pm

Yes we measured it back when we first built the engine. It's the case and not the seals. We measured a handful of seals and they were all the same.

In an act of desperation, i glued the seal in with the copper silicone and it held leak free for 2k miles. But, I worried the whole time. I refuse to have to fret again over an engine every time I drive it.

If there is some way to "fix it" or get a slightly larger seal....then I will. If not I guess toss 500bucks worth of machine work and shipping up to a lesson learned.

Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:56 pm

great, well what size was it?
you need to know the size so I can tell you what thickness shim to use.

Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:59 pm

I will measure it when I get home.

Sun Apr 16, 2017 9:08 pm

I am wondering which shop invested $500 of customer money on a case that was unusable...

Sun Apr 16, 2017 10:09 pm

I would guess the machine shop that did the line bore, cut it oversize the same amount. Did this shop have any experience with ACVW engines? My guess is no. It could have been someone new to ACVWs, and just didn't know.

Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:10 am

Case went to Brothers in California. I assumed they were great from what the local guys told me. They did a great job on the full flow, bronze lifter inserts and opening the case for 90.5/92. I did have to get the decks machined level though. They were off.

The seal surface did not look freshly cut when I got the case back. Never crossed my mind to measure that surface before using the case as there shouldn't be any wear.

Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:58 am

Weird -never seen that before.

Someone probably sandpapered/flapwheeled that surface.

I was brought a case this week that was flapped wheeled on the sealing surface. Someone told this guy that it was for 'bite' on sealer.

The case was leaked pretty bad.

Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:35 am

I'd ask Brothers if they have a solution. Surprised to hear they didn't check that. Maybe there is another seal that can be made to work.

Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:26 pm

KTPhil wrote: I'd ask Brothers if they have a solution. Surprised to hear they didn't check that. Maybe there is another seal that can be made to work.

I called Brothers, they did not have any easy solution. They were kind of surprised...acted like it was something they had not dealt with before.

Wed Apr 19, 2017 12:36 pm

Probably wasn't. Who cuts that area? I know who. Some who doesn't know shat about VW Cases! Brothers does so I know it wasn't them. Time for the JB weld or a new case!

Wed Apr 19, 2017 12:46 pm

:oops: :oops: You might try knurling or multiple center punch marks combined with 'gel seal" (red locktite gelly ) stuff, then swedge the metal slightly round the case. -

:roll: sympathy- never seen it before either.

Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:51 pm

What about a properly sized and appropriately modified speedy sleeve? Just like a beer can shim, but in one piece. It is of course the wrong application, but I dont see any reason it wont work.

Brian

Wed Apr 19, 2017 4:31 pm

Swedge it open a bit from the back. That is if theres metal in it. I dont remember if it does.

I had to do it for an axle seal once. I know theyre metal inside the silicone.

Thu Apr 20, 2017 5:13 am

I have no clue about fixing engine cases, but I was curious about the elring number for Glenns red silicone seal and came up with this:
elring 042.102 is the standard seal made out of ACM
elring 513.326 is the silicone seal made out of MQV
elring 348.856 is a two component seal made out of FPM/ACM (this kind of seals were originally used in the later waterpumper engines, at least in my Golf HK engine from '84)
All of them are 70 X 90 X 10, with a left twist (not sure if my translation is correct for Linksdrall)

elring 135.420 would be a oversize seal with 70 X 92 X 8,5 if it is possible to open up the case.
It's like the standard seal, does have the left twist, but an additional sealing lip, not sure if this will work or not.
There are probably other seals with better fitting measurements, but not from elring.

Fri Apr 21, 2017 11:57 am

mr. lang wrote:
elring 135.420 would be a oversize seal with 70 X 92 X 8,5 if it is possible to open up the case.
It's like the standard seal, does have the left twist, but an additional sealing lip, not sure if this will work or not.
There are probably other seals with better fitting measurements, but not from elring.

This may work.... Worth looking into. I have a friend who can open the case up some.

Fri Apr 21, 2017 8:36 pm

I'm wondering if you couldn't just put the seal in with some Permatex No. 2 on the outside of it. That stuff is thick and tacky enough it might fill the gap. Or maybe some Permatex No. 1. It hardens but is (supposedly :D ) still removable.

Fri Apr 21, 2017 9:07 pm

Or some JB Weld.