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Fri Apr 28, 2017 6:14 pm

The turn signal switch on my 1971 standard Beetle tended to be stiff and sticky in operation (often wouldn't cancel after turns, etc.), plus the horn contacts seemed to have "dead" spots as well. Upon inspection, turned out the lower end of the horn contact spring was broken off, while upper portion was partially worn through.

I decided to buy a new turn signal switch to replace the original, and thus solve the operational problems. Only aftermarket replacement switches seem to be available nowadays, and the one I got unfortunately turned out out to be less than ideal in performance department.
Here's the aftermarket switch (with horn contact spring removed - more on that later):

During test fitment and operation, the new switch unfortunately proved to be even more "sticky" than the original (i.e. wouldn't cancel after turning steering wheel), even following liberal lubrication. :-(
Here's a shot of the cancellation tab sticking in the up position -- it's supposed to snap down freely after the steering wheel's turn signal cancellation tab passes beyond it:

It would also stick in the opposite direction. Couldn't get it to work -- was essentially useless... :-(

Open closer inspection, discovered other suspect areas on the new switch assembly. The wiring on new unit was obviously of thinner / smaller gauge than wiring on the OEM switch (especially the 3 black wires connected to the turn signal lighting circuits).
And here's a rather poorly formed and sloppily fitting sub-component, which secures the "W" spring on the switch face:

Compare this to the well and closely fitted corresponding components on the original German switch:

After the disappointing performance and apparent sketchy quality of the new aftermarket switch, I decided to clean and lubricate my original turn signal switch for reinstallation . By carefully drilling out the brass rivets which held the horn contact springs in each unit, I was able to transfer the contact spring from the new switch back over to my original switch.
After cleaning out all remanents of the old brass rivets (somewhat tedious and fiddly, but ultimately doable), I drilled and tapped the holes to allow small screws for securing the new horn contact spring in place.

My original switch now seems to operate just fine -- cancels after turns in each direction, plus no "gaps" in the horn's operation anymore. I am pleased with the results so far... :-)

Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:03 pm

Awesome job! Makes me wish that I would have kept my original switch.

Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:43 pm

I replaced my original switch with a cheap IAP one. That one lasted around 6 months and it would never cancel.

I replaced it with a better quality switch (can't remember the name but it has a red eagle? symbol on a blue box) that needed some minor adjustments but ultimately works great! Had to add some silicone grease to get it to move but works now.

Sat Apr 29, 2017 3:46 am

Yeah, installing a new switch that works would definitely be the easiest way to go -- that was my initial intent anyway. I only resorted to cleaning, lubing, and swapping parts for the old switch when I got exasperated with not being able to get new switch to cancel properly. Hopefully the old one will last longer and continue to work satisfactorily now,

If you can find name of manufacturer (or pic of box, etc.) for that good new switch you bought, please let me (& all of us) know -- just in case the old one does finally crap out, eventually...

Sat Apr 29, 2017 4:31 am

I too bought what appears to be the same switch. My horn was not working in spots and the spring contacts are worn thru at the top and bottom.

While the worn out spots are an issue. For me the bigger issue was the worn thru contact ring that is part of the turn cancellation ring. The replacement I got for that was crappy as well.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=677378

I am interested in know more about the fix you did. What size drill and tap did u use? The low height head on the screw is also important. What did you use? Size? Source? etc.

Thanks!
Byas

Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:49 am

baldessariclan wrote: Yeah, installing a new switch that works would definitely be the easiest way to go -- that was my initial intent anyway. I only resorted to cleaning, lubing, and swapping parts for the old switch when I got exasperated with not being able to get new switch to cancel properly. Hopefully the old one will last longer and continue to work satisfactorily now,

If you can find name of manufacturer (or pic of box, etc.) for that good new switch you bought, please let me (& all of us) know -- just in case the old one does finally crap out, eventually...

Found it! The name is JP Group. I believe I bought a NOS one on eBay though as I've haven't been able to find one again.

Sat Apr 29, 2017 11:16 am

don't forget to install the 2 metal spacer like this to keep the switch from binding (in two of the four mounting screws)

Sat Apr 29, 2017 1:41 pm

bnam, I used the smallest tap I could find in my tool set -- think that it was tap for 6-32 threads (i.e. imperial/English thread size, not metric). A tap for very small metric fastener (e.g. 4 mm, maybe?) would probably work as well. Just look for one near same size as the existing holes. And you need corresponding drill to match the tap, of course (note: I drilled and tapped down through the metal plate below the plastic as well).

Fasteners used were cap screws w/ hex socket heads, but any fairly low profile head screws should work. Once again, fairly sure I used ones in 6-32 size -- they were out of my "spare screws collection" (most likely originally from Ace hardware or similar). They were very short, and I filed off bottoms a bit to make them even shorter, such that they barely protruded below bottom of the metal plate once installed.

As I mentioned in the original post, this was all a bit fidly (especially getting out the original rivets), and thus required some patience and perseverance to accomplish. But results were ultimately worth the effort (especially seeing as I really didn't have any other options, since the new replacement switch wouldn't work correctly - ha!).

Sat Apr 29, 2017 1:48 pm

60ragtop, my existing switch (which came with the car -- believe it's original) doesn't have any spacers like those -- ?? Possible they got lost st at some point, as PO evidently had the steering column apart at one point and seemed to have misplaced / lost a fair amount of the original pieces... ugh! :-(

Do they maybe fit in the two holes opposite the turn signal lever? I.e. those two holes look to be slightly larger in dia. than the two holes adjacent to the lever. If so, any idea where I could find some of those spacers??

Sat Apr 29, 2017 2:02 pm

60ragtop wrote: don't forget to install the 2 metal spacer like this to keep the switch from binding (in two of the four mounting screws)

#&#&, so that's what those were for! They were included with my new JP Group switch but I didn't know where they go. Works fine for now so I might throw them in my spare parts box.

Sat Apr 29, 2017 3:16 pm

you can see where they go, switch on the left. Me, I would install them.

Sun Apr 30, 2017 5:43 am

Anybody have an idea on source for those spacers?

Sun Apr 30, 2017 6:04 am

PM sent

Sun May 07, 2017 5:13 pm

Update: Turns out my initial mod. worked a bit TOO well. As I stated earlier, the horn no longer had any gaps in operation during preliminary "bench" testing. However, once all components reinstalled in car and battery reconnected, horn was sounding continuously, even when horn ring not pressed -- !!

Turns out the new metal screws I had installed (replacing the original tubular rivets) were grounding the horn contact spring to the rest of the turn signal switch (i.e. through the underlying metal plate in switch -- since I had tapped/screwed into it). Doh!!

Solution I'm now using is to replace those metal screws with some nylon ones (see below). Seems to be working out fine, so far.

Plan "B" was to try filling the holes with J-B Weld or similar, and then redrill / retap for an even smaller screw (e.g. 4-40 imperial, or M3-0.5 metric) -- thus insulating from / no direct connection to the base plate.

Problem solved? (hopefully...) :-)

Mon May 08, 2017 12:29 pm

nice job...good detail work. A lot of patience required. 8)

Dave

Thu Apr 23, 2020 8:44 pm

60ragtop wrote: don't forget to install the 2 metal spacer like this to keep the switch from binding (in two of the four mounting screws)

Huh, I found one of those on the floor of my '71 Super Beetle, too. So there's only supposed to be two? And, when the switch is in place, they go in the holes on the upper and lower right hand side? And they keep the switch from binding? I'm having a hard time visualizing how they help.

Thanks in advance for any info folks can share.

Fri Apr 24, 2020 7:36 am

Longmont1302 wrote: Huh, I found one of those on the floor of my '71 Super Beetle, too. So there's only supposed to be two? And, when the switch is in place, they go in the holes on the upper and lower right hand side? And they keep the switch from binding? I'm having a hard time visualizing how they help.

Thanks in advance for any info folks can share.
Yes, the OEM 1971 turn signal switch (and others - ?) is supposed to have two of those spacers, installed in holes on right side of switch. Think that they serve to help keep screws from being turned down too tight on that side of switch (nylon housing is thinner there), and causing switch to bind and/or not cancel correctly.

IIRC, you may be able to find roll pins in hardware store w/ outer and inner diameters which will fit and work correctly (grind/file to appropriate length), if you’re missing the original spacers and can’t find stock replacements.

Fri Apr 24, 2020 8:57 am

I was doing some research on this then the quarantine hit but I was at the local ACE and found some brass or aluminum tubing that should work for the spacers.
I think it was 5/32 " and comes in 12" length so it would have to be cut accordingly. We are getting some of our restrictions lifted so maybe I can research some more. In the meantime the ACE here relocated so it is a mess right now. :?

Fri Apr 24, 2020 9:44 am

Great write up! I need all the information and photos possible. I will soon be at that point with my 1971 Super Beetle. Good work 8)

Fri Apr 24, 2020 9:51 am

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/metal-sheets-and-rods/aluminum-tubes/5023999

Here is the tubing available from ACE hardware. 5/32"
That is the same diameter as the original spacer I have so it should work but I haven't had a chance to buy it and try in the switch.