View original topic: Seeking advice - 1st time engine/tranny drop Page: Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Wildthings Wed May 17, 2017 9:11 pm

Remove the six bolts that hold the cover to the flywheel and you will find the clutch disc pinched between the cover and the flywheel.

To remove the cooling fan, you just remove the three bolts and then gently pries the fan away from the fan adapter.

timvw7476 Wed May 17, 2017 9:17 pm

Those are the fingers of the pressure plate, you turn the perimeter bolts
1/2 turn each to release it, the disc is sandwiched behind it.
The reason you turn the bolts 1/2 turn, criss-cross fashion, is to remove
it slowly so it does not warp the spring.
The fan looks like it should just pop off it- the outer three bolts are gone,
can't see in the photo, there is also a locating dowel & special washer under
there, don't want to misplace it.

Whaanga Wed May 17, 2017 9:26 pm

Thank You. The three bolts are off the fan but it seems immovable. Being a newbie, I didn't want to start wrenching on it in case there was something unknown to me I could damage.

chachi Thu May 18, 2017 6:37 am

pressure plate looks pretty good.

lil-jinx Thu May 18, 2017 7:36 am

My 74 cooling fan has an alienment pin on it,not sure if your's does,but if there is ,it may be seized onto the pin,gently taping on the fan body with a soft hammer should loosen it.

Whaanga Thu May 18, 2017 2:24 pm

Do I need to remove the bolt in the center of the cooling fan so I can take it off?

Whaanga Thu May 18, 2017 2:30 pm

Also - am pulling the tank. I plan to replace the vapor links but they appear to be in decent shape for being there for the past 44 years.

Plus- the metal filler neck looks solid. How do I evaluate the condition of the rubber portion of the filler neck?

Wildthings Thu May 18, 2017 3:29 pm

Replace all the rubber associated with the fuel tank while you have easy access, including the filler neck. Read up on alternatives for the ell shaped filler hose, the generic Napa hose does work as do some of the other ideas. I can pretty much guaranty you can rip the little vent hoses apart as you take them off. I know mine were totally shot 20ish years back.

Just pries behind one side of the fan and then the other, it should work right off. No you don't need to remove the adapter first.

Whaanga Sat May 20, 2017 10:05 am

Was able to get the fan off - I had to tap it with a hammer using a piece of wood as a buffer.

Not sure why it was stuck but glad it's off now.

Wildthings Sat May 20, 2017 10:52 am

Whaanga wrote: Not sure why it was stuck but glad it's off now.

Years of rust

Whaanga Sat May 20, 2017 6:37 pm

Some more work today. Forgot to post a photo of the interior of the gas tank.
It needs cleaning and POR 15 but it looks like it is not too far gone.

Also removed the moustache bar to get acces to the lower portion of the engine for cleaning. There was a fair amount of oil and dirt built up. I don't think any of the galley plugs are leaking but noticed that all four nuts securing the oil pump were looser than expected - I gave each a 1/4 turn.

Also, discovered two short bolts on the side of breather tower and above the dizzy that something mounts to but I have no idea what this would be.

I looked back in other photos of he engine and the mystery item was missing then as well.

What am I missing here?

Wildthings Sun May 21, 2017 7:53 am

Your tank looks good, I would not coat it. Doing so might cause problems that you don't have now.

You might consider replacing your engine mounts as the rubber tends to delaminate and crack with age. The one nut in your picture also looks loose.

You are just missing a couple of nuts and washers in your last picture. Those fasteners just hold the case together.

Wildthings Sun May 21, 2017 7:55 am

Your tank looks good, I would not coat it. Doing so might cause problems that you don't have now.

You might consider replacing your engine mounts as the rubber tends to delaminate and crack with age. The one nut in your picture also looks loose.

You are just missing a couple of nuts and washers in your last picture. Those fasteners just hold the case together.

It is pretty normal for the block to be that dirty, though to have standing oil is not. I would scrape, wire brush, spray the block to clean it and try to figure out where the oil is coming from. Remove the nuts from the oil pump, clean around the studs well and then apply some silicone to the stud and surfaces where the nuts sit before replacing the nuts.

Whaanga Sun May 21, 2017 1:26 pm

So the tank looks ok? There was some rust in there and last year I had an issue with clogged fuel lines. Actually the old lines were in very poor condition and they had literally had fused closed.

All new gates baricade hoses and a fuel tank drain and I've not had one problem since.

Once I got the tank out last week, I poured in two litre's of cocacola and it cleaned most of the junk out of there.

Whaanga Tue May 23, 2017 5:28 pm

In prepping to put things back together, I discovered a small cotter pin attached to the tins that go directly above the block. What is the function of these two pins located directly above the intake manifold ports?

Whaanga Fri May 26, 2017 4:47 pm

I'm posting more photos to document my work and solicit any feedback and suggestions.

I removed the clutch plate to evaluate the parts and this is what I founnd:

I think the pressure plate has life left in it and there is plenty of depths seen near the rivits. The cover needs cleaning and possibly to be replaced.
Not sure about he fly wheel. Will remove it and have it looked at by a local machine shop to check its soundness.

Also removed the nose cone to replace the ball and shift plate. Took the nose cone to the machine shop to get the mating surface perfectly flat per the instructions from Waddel. Being a noob, I was surprised that the gear oil came out and man, it's rank.

Do I need to remove the huge Allen Kay plug to drain and the refill?
Also, the old seal was made of paper and someone put a flywheel shim in there.

Also cleaned and painted all the tin work.

Lastly, have all new boots, gaskets for the shift rod tube but am having a hard time getting the two halves to separate. Any hints for how to do this?

Wildthings Fri May 26, 2017 5:32 pm

I would replace the clutch disc no matter what, from the pictures it looks like it may have a bit of odd wear anyway. If the clutch cover and flywheel wear surfaces are fairly flat when you lay a straight edge across them they can be rerun. They will tend to get worn to a slight cone shape over time. Whether to replace any part or all of the clutch is subjective.

You can set an open end wrench or crescent wrench against the collar on the shift rod and beat on the wrench with a hammer. That should jar the two halves loose.

Whaanga Fri May 26, 2017 10:32 pm

Here are a couple more photos of the clutch plate- of both sides.y

Wildthings Sat May 27, 2017 1:46 am

My reason for wanting to replace a used clutch disc is that there are other failure modes beside just wearing out the lining. The springs can get fatigued and worn and the rivets can work loose. I almost always replace the pilot bearing whenever I have access as well.

Whaanga Mon May 29, 2017 7:43 pm

More work today. Removed the fly wheel and found the main seal to be leaking.
I have ordered a new one from GoWesty. The question is, how to I install this? The Bentley shows a very large and complicated tool for the 5 bolt flywheel installation. I doubt this is easily available for a guy like me.

It looks like the oil galley plugs are solid and not leaking. Should I clean up all this sludge and oil? or is this a normal state of how things look?

Also, read that I need to replace the bolt plate - I looked on the Bus Depot site but could not find this part. Where might I purchase this?

I've read that there is supposed to be a felt ring but did not see one when I removed the flywheel. Is this found behind the main seal? If I don't have one, what is a good source?

I also have a new pilot bearing to install. Being inexperienced, I check the one that's there and it is solid and all the rollers are in tact.

I've read about pulling these out but it looks like there is a special tool as well. Any advise here would be appreciated.

Lastly, I found cracks in the flywheel so have located a new one. I will have my machinist shop look this one over, but from what I have read, I think mine is not salvageable.

Thanks as always for advise and input.

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