TheSamba.com :: View topic - destroyed clutch cylinder boot: how to replace?

Fri May 19, 2017 11:34 pm

In my recent adventures and increased visibility now that I have the Turbo, Exhaust Manifold, Downpipe, and Muffler OFF the van, I now have a great view on the clutch slave cylinder... and the boot is history.

Is it possible to simply replace this boot?

Also can anyone suggest the least uncomforable way (position) to bleed that cylinder??

Sat May 20, 2017 4:21 am

You can replace the boot without opening the hydraulics. You need to find a replacement boot. The pushrod is not attached. It is held in place by the boot and arm.

Sat May 20, 2017 6:50 am

epowell wrote: ...suggest the least uncomforable way (position) to bleed that cylinder??
Not to be too obvious, but get on your back & reach up with your wrench... :wink:

It's a good sign that the bleeder cap is still in place. Get some penetrating oil on the threads
before you start on it. Hopefully you'll have better luck than with your front calipers... <crosses fingers>

8)

- Dave

Sat May 20, 2017 7:53 am

Thanks! ...but many folks bleed the clutch from the engine bay I hear.

Sat May 20, 2017 9:27 am

Here's a boot replacement kit:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-clutch-slave-cylinder-kit-vanagon-transporter-251798041

Sat May 20, 2017 1:57 pm

Jeffrey Lee wrote: Here's a boot replacement kit:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-clutch-slave-cylinder-kit-vanagon-transporter-251798041

Thanks!
Sorry to be a brain-picker... but in a nutshell what is basically involved with replacing this boot. Which parts of the cylinder assembly need to be removed in order to do that??
Thanks!

Sat May 20, 2017 3:16 pm

As you can see from this exploded view, it's pretty straightforward: http://bit.ly/2rprSDt

Carefully separate the cup on the end of the slave cylinder piston from the ball on the clutch operating lever. Remove the rusty ring clip holding the old boot in place, and remove the boot and inner rubber ring held in place by a smaller ring clip. Installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal.

It's really no more difficult than replacing a similar boot on a rear brake cylinder, etc. ...

Be sure to clean and regrease the ball-and-cup.

Sat May 20, 2017 3:27 pm

Jeffrey Lee wrote: As you can see from this exploded view, it's pretty straightforward: http://bit.ly/2rprSDt

Carefully separate the cup on the end of the slave cylinder piston from the ball on the clutch operating lever. Remove the rusty ring clip holding the old boot in place, and remove the boot and inner rubber ring held in place by a smaller ring clip. Installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal.

It's really no more difficult than replacing a similar boot on a rear brake cylinder, etc. ...

Be sure to clean and regrease the ball-and-cup.

Great thanks! I still don't yet grasp the specifics but now knowing that it is very easy and straight-forward is enough..... I will read and familiarize myself, and get it done.

Trying right now to minimize work and not open any more worm cans... I want to be driving again :) ...but we can't go leaving mangled boots that are critically important!

Sun May 21, 2017 12:58 am

Jeffrey Lee wrote:
Carefully separate the cup on the end of the slave cylinder piston from the ball on the clutch operating lever.

...AH! OK, that really really is simple!
So that ball and cup will just separate if I pull them apart - then I can slip the new boot up onto that shaft, then push the ball back up into the cup? SIMPLE!

Sun May 21, 2017 1:01 am

dhaavers wrote: epowell wrote: ...suggest the least uncomforable way (position) to bleed that cylinder??
Not to be too obvious, but get on your back & reach up with your wrench... :wink:

It's a good sign that the bleeder cap is still in place. Get some penetrating oil on the threads
before you start on it. Hopefully you'll have better luck than with your front calipers... <crosses fingers>

8)

- Dave

Actually the PO replaced the entire copper supply line from the MC about 2 or 3 years ago, so obviously he had to bleed it then... So I'm guessing it will be easy to open the bleeder :)

I'm just amazed that he didn't replace that boot at the same time > it looks like it's been hanging there like that for a decade!

Sun May 21, 2017 4:20 am

You can save money by replacing the boot with a piece of old bicycle inner tube and zip ties. It is just a dust shield , not a seal of any kind.

You can get 2 lattes fir the horrific price of that boot

Sun May 21, 2017 4:47 am

Nice tip, thanks!

Sun May 21, 2017 11:59 am

epowell wrote: dhaavers wrote: epowell wrote: ...suggest the least uncomforable way (position) to bleed that cylinder??
Not to be too obvious, but get on your back & reach up with your wrench... :wink:

It's a good sign that the bleeder cap is still in place. Get some penetrating oil on the threads
before you start on it. Hopefully you'll have better luck than with your front calipers... <crosses fingers>

8)

- Dave

Actually the PO replaced the entire copper supply line from the MC about 2 or 3 years ago, so obviously he had to bleed it then... So I'm guessing it will be easy to open the bleeder :)

I'm just amazed that he didn't replace that boot at the same time > it looks like it's been hanging there like that for a decade!

I think he may changed the boot, but the cheap aftermarket ones have bad quality rubber that perishes with time.

I had problems with my steering rack boot and CV boot. The aftermarket ones just cracked and fell apart in a few years. Better to have a good used one on those.

Frenkit brand seems good quality on replacement rubber.

Sun May 21, 2017 2:08 pm

...or some good bicycle inner tubes :) :) :)

Sun May 21, 2017 2:08 pm

it's really simple procedure, no unbolting required (least wasn't on mine).

hold down on the clutch arm some
push up on the clutch cylinder pushrod
slow steady pressure, the cylinder will compress.
once the cylinder is compressed slip the push rod out the bottom
the cylinder is retained by a snap ring, it will not pop out.
replace the boot.
and recompress the cylinder
slow and steady again.
slip the pushrod up into the boot & align it onto the ball of the clutch arm

Sun May 21, 2017 2:11 pm

danfromsyr wrote: it's really simple procedure, no unbolting required (least wasn't on mine).

hold down on the clutch arm some
push up on the clutch cylinder pushrod
slow steady pressure, the cylinder will compress.
once the cylinder is compressed slip the push rod out the bottom
the cylinder is retained by a snap ring, it will not pop out.
replace the boot.
and recompress the cylinder
slow and steady again.
slip the pushrod up into the boot & align it onto the ball of the clutch arm
Great! Thanks for these details!

Sun May 21, 2017 2:24 pm

I hope you used only a German boot, only Das Boot in my van!

Sun May 21, 2017 2:56 pm

The French make the best bicycle inner tubes ...

Mon May 22, 2017 7:32 am

Jeffrey Lee wrote: The French make the best bicycle inner tubes ...

But its cheaper to steal them off the bikes of broken down Bay Windows of freeloaders on world treks...

Mon May 22, 2017 7:40 am

You mean a Vanagon in not also a Hippy Van??