TheSamba.com :: View topic - Wolfsburg West Brake Booster Vacuum Nipple

Fri May 26, 2017 7:20 pm

I'm fitting a new Wolfsburg West brake servo right now and the vacuum nipple is simply too small for the stock hard plastic vacuum hose. To try and move forward I've wrapped some HVAC duct tape around the nipple so I can seal this up - but this is far from a permanent solution.

Has anyone else had the same problem and found a good diameter hose that will fit the hard line and the vacuum nipple itself?

Fri May 26, 2017 7:25 pm

Oh, I guess this post answers my question. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583610&highlight=wolfsburg+boost%2A

I'll see if this servo is as unfriendly as kremoweets. I think fluid has only recently started leaking into the original one. I washed it out just now but I'm loath to put back in without having it rebuilt.

Fri May 26, 2017 7:36 pm

Been that way from the beginning: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583610&highlight=

I just slipped some vinyl tubing I had laying around over the nipple, and the stock vacuum hose fit fine over that. Not a big deal, but just goes to show
exactly what "made by WW" may or may not mean. Myself, I think it's just marketing hokum.

I see OP has already found topic cited above. I really don't know where people get the idea that a little brake fluid will ruin a booster. Twenty years now
on the used booster I installed in 1997, had to clean out the brake fluid first.

Fri May 26, 2017 7:47 pm

kreemoweet wrote: . I really don't know where people get the idea that a little brake fluid will ruin a booster. Twenty years now
on the used booster I installed in 1997, had to clean out the brake fluid first.

I'll dry mine out and if it can hold vacuum I'll reinstall.

Fri May 26, 2017 8:02 pm

kreemoweet wrote: I really don't know where people get the idea that a little brake fluid will ruin a booster. Twenty years now
on the used booster I installed in 1997, had to clean out the brake fluid first.
You are lucky.
Brake fluid not only removes most protective coatings (like paint), it also attracts moisture from the atmosphere, moisture + bare metal = rust.
If you can clean it out so it's dry it will likely be fine, the damage occurs when rust forms on the shiny metal surfaces of the valve discs inside, if they get rough they won't hold vacuum, bits of scale coming from other parts also effect the valves when they get sucked in. If you can get it clean inside and it's not rusty it'll likely be OK, if it's growing brown fuzzies your odds go down significantly.

Sat May 27, 2017 5:52 pm

I fitted the WW servo in the end. Adjusted the connecting rod and bled everything thoroughly. I immediately felt the same lack of brake modulation kreemoweet noted in his review. Brakes are very sharp indeed. It's unpleasant.

Anyone else tried this servo and had different results? Is there any adjustment I can do other than connecting rod?

Sat May 27, 2017 11:57 pm

tommu wrote: I fitted the WW servo in the end. Adjusted the connecting rod and bled everything thoroughly. I immediately felt the same lack of brake modulation kreemoweet noted in his review. Brakes are very sharp indeed. It's unpleasant.

Anyone else tried this servo and had different results? Is there any adjustment I can do other than connecting rod? I don't know if it is the same brand as the WW one, but I bought mine for my '71 at EIS and it is branded Airtec. I set the pushrod the same protrusion as the one I removed and bolted everything up and it works great.

Sun May 28, 2017 7:55 am

I didn't check the pushrod to master cylinder clearance. I think I need to take the MC off and stick my fingers in there..

Sun May 28, 2017 11:45 am

tommu wrote: I didn't check the pushrod to master cylinder clearance. I think I need to take the MC off and stick my fingers in there..

Isn't that what the "connecting rod" you adjusted is? Gotta have that millimeter of clearance or you're asking for trouble…

You kept the old booster, right? I vote for a clean, paint, and reinstall. 8)

Robbie

Sun May 28, 2017 2:48 pm

asiab3 wrote: tommu wrote: I didn't check the pushrod to master cylinder clearance. I think I need to take the MC off and stick my fingers in there..

Isn't that what the "connecting rod" you adjusted is? Gotta have that millimeter of clearance or you're asking for trouble…

You kept the old booster, right? I vote for a clean, paint, and reinstall. 8)

Robbie

I call the rod from pedal to brake the connecting rod. The pushrod is in the booster itself. I read that the booster to MC piston pushrod clearance should be determined by the o ring. But some newer boosters have a default pushrod setting that's too extended out of the box. It's a PITA.

I tried cleaning the old booster with soapy water followed by denatured alcohol but I see some light surface rust spots. Still worth cleaning, painting and re-installing!

Sun May 28, 2017 3:04 pm

The adjustable rod inside the new booster isn't a pain at all. You simply need to be aware to adjust the length when you install the MC. Took me about 10 minutes if I remember right. This was on Cynthia's bus.

Sun May 28, 2017 7:28 pm

Brake Servo

Sun May 28, 2017 7:50 pm

Tim,
This aftermarket booster is a bit different in that the very tip of the rod that inserts into the MC is adjustable using very small wrenches. It also has the smaller, like 3/8 nipple, as opposed to the usual 1/2 inch or so size nip. Personally, larger nipples appeal to me. Your tastes may vary.

Sun May 28, 2017 10:35 pm

The WW booster pushrod the same clearance as the original ATE pushrod. So I concluded that the whole thing was an inferior clone. I dried out, cleaned and refitted my original booster. Proper modulation returned along with more tactile pedal. My advice is to either rebuild your original, buy used here and get it rebuilt or save for the genuine ATE one.

Lesson (re)learnt. You get what you pay for.

Sun May 28, 2017 10:38 pm

aeromech wrote: The adjustable rod inside the new booster isn't a pain at all. You simply need to be aware to adjust the length when you install the MC. Took me about 10 minutes if I remember right. This was on Cynthia's bus.

Agree. It's only a pain if you neglect to adjust it before installing it under the car along with a master cylinder and fully bled brakes. :(

Sun May 28, 2017 11:11 pm

tommu wrote: . . . or save for the genuine ATE one.

Don't forget, and as discussed in my original thread linked to above, that even the genuine ATE booster has an
incorrect push rod setting (for use with original stock master cylinders), and there is no adjustability in that pushrod
length in the necessary direction (shorter). Either a M/C shim or machining of some sort will be required to use it.

Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:32 am

kreemoweet wrote: tommu wrote: . . . or save for the genuine ATE one.

Don't forget, and as discussed in my original thread linked to above, that even the genuine ATE booster has an
incorrect push rod setting (for use with original stock master cylinders), and there is no adjustability in that pushrod
length in the necessary direction (shorter). Either a M/C shim or machining of some sort will be required to use it. I just measured how much the pushrod protruded from the face of the original booster and adjusted the new one to the same amount of protrusion or lack thereof. Took maybe 2 minutes if that.

Sun Apr 01, 2018 12:06 pm

Can anyone provide a link or phone # to the rebuilder for my original ATE brake servo? Many thanks!

Thu Jun 21, 2018 3:48 pm

deleted

Thu Jun 21, 2018 3:54 pm

Tcash wrote: Brake Servo

So the Bentley stresses the importance of that clearance, but doesn't say how to measure it. Once you put the pieces together you can't see those parts. Do you go by feel from the other end of the booster?

- Jack.