TheSamba.com :: View topic - Sandblasting

Wed Jun 21, 2017 2:16 pm

Evil_Fiz wrote: 8 ) Blasting media - I used Clean Bite Crushed Glass Blast Media — 50 Lbs., Medium Grade sold at Northern Tool @ $9.99 (6-11-2017) for a 50 Lbs. bag. This is the best price I have found on effective and safe blasting media. See my previus post for details. I reused a 50 Lbs. bag about 10 times before the media became too fine and lost effectiveness as a rust remover. The fine media was still able to cut paint easily.

That's a good price. The cheapest I found some 40/70 for is $8.25/bag

There is a company which makes it
http://www.truabrasives.com
http://www.strategicmaterials.com

They are about $4-$5 per bag but you have to buy pallets of it. I doubt I will use even 1 pallet.

Wed Jun 21, 2017 7:31 pm

If I were you I would find a way to strip most of it another way. I like to use a rotary buffer with a stiff backing pad and use 36-80 grit paper to get as much paint off as I can. Then go over it with the blasting. It will be cheaper in the long run and most rotary buffers are electric. Then you won't have to focus so long on the panels to get them blasted.

Wed Jun 21, 2017 7:35 pm

kawfee wrote: Evil_Fiz wrote: 8 ) Blasting media - I used Clean Bite Crushed Glass Blast Media — 50 Lbs., Medium Grade sold at Northern Tool @ $9.99 (6-11-2017) for a 50 Lbs. bag. This is the best price I have found on effective and safe blasting media. See my previus post for details. I reused a 50 Lbs. bag about 10 times before the media became too fine and lost effectiveness as a rust remover. The fine media was still able to cut paint easily.

That's a good price. The cheapest I found some 40/70 for is $8.25/bag

There is a company which makes it
http://www.truabrasives.com
http://www.strategicmaterials.com

They are about $4-$5 per bag but you have to buy pallets of it. I doubt I will use even 1 pallet.

I started out reusing media, but quickly found it was better for me in the long run to just use fresh. By the time I swept it up, shoveled it, and screened it..... It just wasn't worth it. But that's just me.

Wed Jun 21, 2017 8:11 pm

They have 100lb bags of coal slag for even less. He said it leaves a film on the metal though.

Has anyone used the coal slag or maybe coal slag followed by glass?

Thu Jun 22, 2017 6:31 am

kawfee wrote: They have 100lb bags of coal slag for even less. He said it leaves a film on the metal though.

I may be completely wrong but I fear that without a very good respirator, that "film" could end up in your lungs.
If I recall correctly from his YouTube channel, "Gregg's garage", Samba member gregmporter used "Black Beauty" coal slag to blast his Ghia.
It may be worth getting his take on the product and the results he got.

Thu Jun 22, 2017 11:37 am

I've used Black Beauty and I never noticed any film. Who knows if it was the same thing though.

Sat Jun 24, 2017 8:48 pm

I went with Goodyear 1/2 rubber hoses. I have one 25' for connection to my dryer/etc. The other is 50' for general use/sandblasting/etc.

I went with Dixon high flow 150 PSI connectors connecting everything together. I'll get some reducers to go down to the 1/4" connections to the sandblaster. Is anyone familiar with Dixon? Do they make good connectors?

Sat Jun 24, 2017 9:33 pm

Evil_Fiz wrote: kawfee wrote: They have 100lb bags of coal slag for even less. He said it leaves a film on the metal though.

I may be completely wrong but I fear that without a very good respirator, that "film" could end up in your lungs.
If I recall correctly from his YouTube channel, "Gregg's garage", Samba member gregmporter used "Black Beauty" coal slag to blast his Ghia.
It may be worth getting his take on the product and the results he got.

I also used coal slag which I purchased at Tractor Supply. Always wear a respirator when doing anything like this.

Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:37 pm

I've found a local supplier for connectors. Their prices are better than Amazon which I was happy to find.

The name of the company is Midwest Hose & Specialty Inc.

http://www.midwesthose.com/

The one connector I checked a price on was the Dixon DC10. They have it for about $17 whereas Amazon is $19.

I'll get 4 DC10 (one for each end of hose). Then I need the connectors for the compressor outlet, the dryer inlet, and the dryer outlet.

Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:41 pm

Here is some cost saving food for thought.

Option 1
You can use 1/2" copper tubing with a vibration loop, or better yet, a short 1/2" whip hose, 3 to 6 Ft, and connect that between the tank and your wall-mounted filter-regulator setup (conditioning Equip.) You can then hard connect either of your longer 1/2" hoses to the conditioning Equipment (least restrictive option) and put a Milton 3/8" or 1/4" V-Style connector on the equipment end of the hose. This will give you about 74 SCFM max at the tool inlet even when using the 50' x 1/2" hose.

Option 2
Same as above but add a Dixon DC9S connector after the conditioning Equip (like a DC10 but with male NPT threads.) You would then add a Dixon DCP18 1/2" male connector to one end of each of your longer 1/2" hoses and use Milton 3/8" or 1/4" V-Style connectors on the other end.

Interchangeability of Milton Connectors. - for reference purposes

A V-Male connector (74 SCFM) will not fit an M-Female coupler (~40 SCFM.)
A V-Male will only fit a V-Female
A M-Male connector can be used in a V-Female coupler or an M-Female coupler.
According to the Milton website the 1/4" and 3/8" V-Style connectors both flow 74 SCFM.

If cost is a concern, you only really have to spend the money on the female V-Style connectors and can get away with the cheaper M-Style male connectors for the tools that do not use a lot of air.

...we're all in this together.
Emil

Mon Jun 26, 2017 5:38 pm

Evil_Fiz wrote: You can use 1/2" copper tubing with a vibration loop, or better yet, a short 1/2" whip hose, 3 to 6 Ft, and connect that between the tank and your wall-mounted filter-regulator setup (conditioning Equip.) You can then hard connect either of your longer 1/2" hoses to the conditioning Equipment (least restrictive option) and put a Milton 3/8" or 1/4" V-Style connector on the equipment end of the hose. This will give you about 74 SCFM max at the tool inlet even when using the 50' x 1/2" hose.

I was thinking of something like this to cool down the air. I was going to zig zag some copper line across the wall before it hit the dryer. Right now, I'll just use that 25 footer. That is what the dryer/filter people suggested to cool down the air before it hits their equipment.

Tue Jun 27, 2017 4:03 am

That's what I did, but I coiled mine up to where I ran it along the ceiling and then down to all the places I wanted it. I also put a "T" in it near the end and 6" of pipe past it with a valve so I could open it to drain any collected water then got to the ends.

Tue Jun 27, 2017 6:29 am

kawfee wrote: ...I was thinking of something like this to cool down the air. I was going to zig zag some copper line across the wall before it hit the dryer.
That approach will work but you will get even better results if you cool the air BEFORE it hits the tank (less water in the tank and denser air.) You could use the zig-zag pipe method (at least 50 ft. x 1/2 in. copper pipe) or go with a "radiator" type setup. An ~11" x ~11" stacked plate transmission oil cooler (B&M/Long Industries) and a 10" fan should cool the air down from ~290* F to about 10* above ambient temperature. A cheap water separator (Harbor Freight) or a "T" in the line with a 12" down pipe and ball valve will collect the condensed water.

kawfee wrote: Right now, I'll just use that 25 footer. That is what the dryer/filter people suggested to cool down the air before it hits their equipment.
That should work. Give it an extra punch by coiling as much of the hose in a bucket or garbage can full of water. The water will work as an effective heat sinc. You can also ice down the water to lower the dew point of the air even further if necessary.

Tue Jun 27, 2017 9:48 am

Evil_Fiz wrote:
That should work. Give it an extra punch by coiling as much of the hose in a bucket or garbage can full of water. The water will work as an effective heat sinc. You can also ice down the water to lower the dew point of the air even further if necessary.

That's an excellent idea. I was thinking of putting an window AC unit behind it but this is even simpler.

Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:55 pm

I did my first blasting today. Set the regulator to 60 PSI and it took all of the grime off my distributor body.

One thing to mention, when you decide to turn off the compressor close the valve on the sand blaster. I didn't and media started coming out of the vent in the compressor. I am assuming it sucked it backwards.

Wed Jul 12, 2017 2:18 pm

kawfee wrote: I did my first blasting today.
Good to hear. Post pictures of your results, we like the car porn :twisted:

Did you happen to get any temperature readings on the pump head and check valve fittings while you were beating that dog?
I don't have my infrared thermometer yet and the numbers would be helpful.

-Emil

Wed Jul 12, 2017 2:52 pm

Evil_Fiz wrote: kawfee wrote: I did my first blasting today.
Good to hear. Post pictures of your results, we like the car porn :twisted:

Did you happen to get any temperature readings on the pump head and check valve fittings while you were beating that dog?
I don't have my infrared thermometer yet and the numbers would be helpful.

-Emil

I haven't gotten to the car yet. I blasted a distributor body.

I think I should patch the car before blasting it so that it doesn't rust so now I have something else which has preempted me.

Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:39 pm

You could do that. Just be ready to find more issues when you blast. It should work well too because you really should blast the welds before putting anything on them.

Wed Jul 12, 2017 8:16 pm

I will probably blast around the area I need to patch so I can find the good metal and then patch it but I will do it one area at a time.

Is there a better way?

Thu Jul 13, 2017 3:19 pm

Sand Blasting is a job you set up for as much work as possible at once. Along with a good mask I recommend wearing a Rain Poncho to keep the sand/media off of you. If you want to do small areas use phosphoric acid.

I cover areas I'm going to paint later with spray oil but you can use aerosol spray paint as well.

As far as getting moisture out of the air I have not heard of a economical effective method other than a 1,000 dollar two stage compressor. Owners of these report that they do not have a water/moisture issue. Dual use of a Tig water cooler could be a option but they run at least $150 by themselves.

I don't usually have a issue with a single stage compressors unless I'm trying to paint when the humidity is too high for painting anyways. Then you really have to use a water filter on your spray gun. If it's cold out ,air tools will ice up inside and won't operate as well.